Saint Laurent Menswear S/S 2023 Marrakech

[vogue28]

 

[yslforever]

Thank you vogue28, great of you to start the thread.
That was an extremely painful show to attend, only to find cheaply tailored clothes in insipid colors. I cannot insist enough on this point, how cheap the fabrics and the constructions are.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Too bad the live experience was so awful. Because watching the video, what Anthony clearly lacks in leading design vision— because frankly, he’s still desperately trailing behind what Hedi has left and abandoned long ago in 2007, he’s making up for in presentation. Whether his “scenography” contribution is just minor, or it’s all his technical craft from videography, to set, lighting and soundtrack, the production team did a supreme job. He’s referencing “The Sheltering Sky”, but this is giving a more Denis’ Paul of the House of Atreides epic mood.

 

[jeanclaude]

Love the set. As for the collection, all I can see is a bunch of twinks raiding their mother/aunts/grandmothers wardrobes.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

cannot insist enough on this point, how cheap the fabrics and the constructions are.

Seems to be a trend among Kering-owned brands.

This show is so cheesy, so "FAH-SCHON!" It's all just a huge cringe parade for me.

 

[disco54]

The set is amazing but again this is very, VERY derivative of Hedi's prior work but without the edge , here we see his Bowie-inspired clothing from Dior and his other work at YSL and even the model choices and how they walk lol its all Hedi. At least get the hot models from the Vetements show to switch things up.

 

[THD96]

When the clothes are such a non-event, you gonna put extra effort into a show. It's a good show, the scenery, and the location is stunning, and that is what I'm going to remember about this, I'm going to forget what the clothes look like by the time I'm finished with this post.

Anthony is better at womenswear but when it comes to menswear he has no authority, no voice or vision whatsoever. That's why the result always looks like Hedi leftovers.

But that's not entirely his fault, I'm sure the suits are "advised" him to stick to it since it's still selling very well. He has more freedom with the womenswear.

None of this does anything for me because I am never warm with this aesthetic. My idea of YSL men is more Tom Ford and Stefano. And since he already copied Tom with the womenswear why not do it the same for the men. It's more exciting than this parade.

That being said, there are still some good pieces in this collection, like the leather trenchcoats are stunning, and I'm sure some looks will be better on women clients.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

They need to hire someone to do the menswear and not have AV do it. This isn't it.

Or at least have a stronger design team behind menswear. The expectation to have one person do everything and the kitchen sink when they're at a house/brand is getting a bit ridiculous. Hire some other talent/s that actually has the skill to helm the other areas because the Creative Director has a better chance of learning a thing or two. AV never did menswear at his own label so why expect him to excel at this.

 

[yslforever]

When the clothes are such a non-event, you gonna put extra effort into a show. It's a good show, the scenery, and the location is stunning, and that is what I'm going to remember about this, I'm going to forget what the clothes look like by the time I'm finished with this post.

Anthony is better at womenswear but when it comes to menswear he has no authority, no voice or vision whatsoever. That's why the result always looks like Hedi leftovers.

But that's not entirely his fault, I'm sure the suits are "advised" him to stick to it since it's still selling very well. He has more freedom with the womenswear.

None of this does anything for me because I am never warm with this aesthetic. My idea of YSL men is more Tom Ford and Stefano. And since he already copied Tom with the womenswear why not do it the same for the men. It's more exciting than this parade.

That being said, there are still some good pieces in this collection, like the leather trenchcoats are stunning, and I'm sure some looks will be better on women clients.

The suits are very hands-on with the merchandising : teddies, t-shirts, hoodies, backpacks, tote bags, essentially - they don't have any good special shoes. For the rest, AV has practically carte blanche.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I had another look a the still images of the collection on Vogue Runway.

It almost looks like Slimane's, Ford's, and Pilati's YSL menswear all synthesized into one.

I really appreciate that it's been recalibrated to mirror the women's collection and in doing so tackle the cultural conversation on gender fluidity in a more deliberate way. That's actually very appropriately Saint Laurent.

Unfortunately, that in and of itself is not enough to give this collection any sense of urgency.

Seems a bit unnecessary to fly in a ton of people to Morocco just for this.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

They need to hire someone to do the menswear and not have AV do it. This isn't it.

Or at least have a stronger design team behind menswear. The expectation to have one person do everything and the kitchen sink when they're at a house/brand is getting a bit ridiculous. Hire some other talent/s that actually has the skill to helm the other areas because the Creative Director has a better chance of learning a thing or two. AV never did menswear at his own label so why expect him to excel at this.

I have been thinking the same thing, what is stopping Kering from hiring a menswear designer to really elevate and further the menswear portion of the Maison? Are sales really that good?

Everything here feels so expected. Between the sheer tops, the strong shoulders, tight leather coats, heels, etc. I feel like I have seen it all before, and that is because I have- every….single…..season.

He really put the less effort in effortless dressing this season. Snooze.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Nothing says spring summer like a massive fake fur coat in the middle of the Moroccan desert

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[LadyJunon]

Nathalie Canguilhem and Alex de Betak saved this show. I have watched this show thrice for the videography alone.

 

[blackcherrified]

Are sales really that good?

Almost all the guys in my social circle has a City backpack, SDJ, or a pair of Andy sneakers… so I guess they must be doing pretty well?

Runway shows are more of a branding exercise these days to sell the easily accessible products so this show basically does this job pretty well…

 

[Koibito]

I’ve just argued with my friends about wearing fur in desert. They said people wear fur in desert to stay cool in hot weather and stay warm in cool weather (there are cold weather months in desert, right?). So does that make these faux fur coats more sense?

And one of my friend said faux fur is better than real one when you wear it in desert cause it’s less insulating.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ LOL Some rich woman wearing Fendi fur driving her Ferrari through Canyon Road isn’t the same as wearing fur in the desert .. Your friends must be trolling. Look at any of the Beduin desert tribes of Northern Africa and the ME, and none wear any remnants of fur. As for faux fur— it’s the equivalent of wearing an acrylic coat: You’ll freeze in the winter, and you’ll boil away in the summer. ( As far as the styling here— hilarious that anyone would argue about the practical styling of a fashion label LOL This label and its branding isn’t restricted to real life practicality of an outdoors label like Patagonia. I would find wearing stiletto heels on a sandy terrain more impractical…)

The strongest component of Anthony’s SL is no doubt the branding. Very smart marketing to showcase mediocre designs in the slickest, sleekest and most flattering of productions that giant corporate money can buy. Take away the gorgeous National Geographic graphic, surreal setting; the smokey, windswept-scape; the sweeping videography; and the cinematic soundtrack, and it’s just a bunch of women’s wispy suitings on a cast of gender-fluid stick figures …

 

[disco54]

This was the Bowie esque Dior Homme collection by Hedi Slimane which AV seems to have been heavily inspired by/copied , even the color combos are the same.

 

[XPreme]

Why they cut away "Yves" from the Logo drawn by Cassandre? No respect to the roots of the house, because it is historically incorrect. when I see this, for me the show isn't interesting anymore.