Saint Laurent Menswear S/S 2024 Berlin

[LadyJunon]

 

[Overindulgence]

Very sleek location choice, complete with that pretty sunset in the background. It made for an effective presentation.

While Vaccarello has progressed in his womenswear, his menswear still lives under Slimane's shadow. Even this collection feels derivative of Celine Homme F/W 2022. I still appreciate him showing something more stripped back and mature though.

 

[Lola701]

For some reason this collection made me think of the early Tom Ford for YSL collections that were really big shoulders, fluid silhouettes on skinny guys. I think it was spring 2003 menswear…

‘I don’t know. I think the pants are great and the kind of elongated silhouette with the boots can work but it feels gimmicky in it proximity to womenswear.

‘His menswear lacks in incarnation. Tom, Stefano, Hedi were the men they were dressing and here there’s a total disconnect. Anthony wouldn’t look good in those clothes.
He would be totally overwhelm by the volumes of those clothes…

‘And unlike the womenswear, there’s a clear lack of sensuality here. There’s no attitude or esprit but it was a well choreographed exercise de style.

Those aren’t clothes men would wear to make their own.
But I guess, it’s the best formula for him now to approach menswear.

 

[Kimihiro]

It’s basically his womenswear transposed. I get that he’s not really a menswear designer. his Saint Laurent man doesn’t really exist in real life, it’s not even a convincing fantasy.

 

[THD96]

Anthony was never a good menswear designer so I can understand why he chose to use his womenswear formula on his men.
The tailoring is great, the outerwear is gorgeous. And the presentation is selling you this collection.

But he needs to have more confidence in his vision for menswear because there is a lack of impact of his men vs his women. His menswear was always in the shadow of his women. Maybe he can get a better menswear director.

 

[Kennnnn]

I appreciate the fact that Vaccarello is creating a more coherent identity across menswear and womenswear. I think this is good for creating a brand "universe", and something that is lacking, for instance, at Dior and Vuitton. If only they had the perfume and licenses back.

What is perhaps most "Slimane" about this collection is that much of this also caters to a female customer.

Overall, I liked this. Some of the silhouettes will probably be scaled down/back when the clothes arrive in the stores.

I think it would really appeal to a customer for whom owning a Saint Laurent pant, smoking, tuxedo, trench coast, etc. still means something.

 

[Page666]

Anthony was never a good menswear designer so I can understand why he chose to use his womenswear formula on his men.
The tailoring is great, the outerwear is gorgeous. And the presentation is selling you this collection.

But he needs to have more confidence in his vision for menswear because there is a lack of impact of his men vs his women. His menswear was always in the shadow of his women. Maybe he can get a better menswear director.

Seems like a dream job.. do me a single breasted 2 button and a 1 button smoking.. two trouser legs.. and some flou tops from the women.. see you in a month i’m going on holiday..

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

The white satin tshirt and the black satin blouse after are great but on pictures, we can see the failure of this collection.

‘It simply doesn’t work as a credible proposition for men.
Those jackets looks so huge that those tall models looks small.

Anthony doesn’t have the subtlety to play with androgyny and flamboyance for men.

It’s funny because Hedi has put sequined crop tops on men, Dries has done florals and mix of patterns and it was more convincing than this.

 

[tourbillions]

even he will not wear these.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Where's the line between consistency and laziness? Because this collection seems to lean more towards laziness.

I'm all for expressing femininity or 'fragility' in men, but it has to be convincing and more subtle. Here, it looks pretty fake, almost costume-y.
Boots aren't necessary, and neither are shoulder pads nor big glasses. The Saint Laurent man should be more mature, almost bohemian, and at the same time Parisian.

IMO Yves Saint Laurent himself is the best Saint Laurent that Vaccarello should draw inspiration from. A blend of touching fragility, timeless bourgeois masculine codes and a slightly sultry aura.

For menswear, everything has to look easy and almost "anodyne".

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Enough with those huge shoulders!

They look so silly.

I actually like all the draped feminine tops. I just wished he applied that same sensibility to a bigger (and more realistic) range of clothes: tunics, shirting, knitwear, soft casual jackets, whatever!

This collection is so narrow. It's just basically one of two looks over and over again.

 

[Avonlea]

Wow putting literal copies of his womenswear on male models. What a genius he is. Too bad actual clients won't give a flying f*ck about this because anyone who doesn't have a body of a twink will look ridiculous.

 

[GoldenTribe]

^ but the twink models look ridiculous too.

Why doesn't anything fit? Nobody needs this ugly late-80s vintage silhouette from a designer label in 2023. Thrift stores are full of low-gorge, wide-lapel jackets for $19.

And womenswear-as-menswear was already thoroughly played out many years ago (pre-pandemic).

 

[LadyJunon]

I like this collection, but mostly because it's an "Act Nº2" of the show in back in March.

I like the idea of playing with flamboyance and glamour in menswear, but it feels a bit too costume-y here. It needs to relax itself a bit to genuinely work.

Also, let's pray that he never finds this forum, because he's a bit of a mess on social media right now.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

dommi1812 seems a little bit jealous he no longer young and beautiful

 

[Phuel]

The white satin tshirt and the black satin blouse after are great but on pictures, we can see the failure of this collection.

‘It simply doesn’t work as a credible proposition for men.
Those jackets looks so huge that those tall models looks small.

Anthony doesn’t have the subtlety to play with androgyny and flamboyance for men.

It’s funny because Hedi has put sequined crop tops on men, Dries has done florals and mix of patterns and it was more convincing than this.

You’re too generous in comparing him to the level of Greats. Lola. He’s at best, of mediocre talent. His womenswear succeeds because he’s finally discovered that by simply streamlining Yves' signatures to its most minimalist silhouettes, in sumptuous fabrics and supported by the slickest of production and presentation, it instantly became a hit; things start to fall apart when you view his designs as separates--- they're kind of basic. With the menswear, Yves never left any impression since he was never interested in it, with Tom/Stefano/Hedi varying so wildly in their visions there’s no continuity. Anthony’s only stuck with Hedi’s because it was the most accessible and most commercially successful, and likely told so by Kering to do so. And he’s fusing it with his womenswear because… it’s all he’s capable of LOL He’s of very limited talent, if I’m being generous. But absolutely gorgeous shows, so kudos to Kering’s investment in the marketing team for YSL.

 

[reese06]

I really want to like his menswear more but I can’t say any of it resonates with me like the womenswear does.

I don’t want to be this saint laurent man and I don’t find anything to be desirable even though the show is very slick. The silhouette does nothing for me.

I like that he is moving on from Hedi's product line but this isn't it either.

 

[yslforever]

I agree with everyone about the lazyness and the very litteral attempt to transpose his already limited womenswear into menswear.

The good thing is Anthony knows his limits and where to stop. He keeps his aesthetic in one direction, and it's consistent, without compromises and clean. I know that's a low bar for Saint-Laurent - or any other brands in that matter - but I am just glad there are no failed attempt at daywear, streetwear, hoodies or things he clearly cannot deliver.
There would be no shame in bringing a menswear designer : Hermès, LV, Dior come to mind, YSL had both Alber and Hedi, and Lanvin, Alber and Lucas, and those were very good pairings.

The bad thing is I would not want any of this collection, I already have tons of tuxedos and co; this new silhouettes bring nothing new - with the exception of the boots- so that leaves me with the satin shirts and chiffon tops, which honestly would fit many women better than me, or other men.