Saint Laurent Menswear S/S 2026 Paris

[youthinasia]

This is too much clothing for Fire Island. The gays wear much less.

 

[hamburgers]

Pesce already did the shoulder pad shirts with paper bag waist shorts or rounded hip pants for Prada SS24 so it’s weird to see them being a focal point here again so soon.

The color palette is nice but it makes me miss Alber/Lucas who already interpreted the YSL color palette the same way and brought it to Lanvin decades ago

 

[LadyJunon]

This is too much clothing for Fire Island. The gays wear much less.

Ludovic de Saint Laurent?

 

[QuantumCouture]

Vaccarello is reaching for sprezzatura, but he still lacks the technical finesse to make it convincing. A color-by-numbers approach won’t help him.

 

[reese06]

Incredibly lazy collection. How is he still getting away with designing so little?

The colors are undeniably beautiful, but this has nothing to do with Fire Island, not then, and certainly not now. Even if AV had the authority to suggest an elevated proposition of what the gays should wear in the Pines, this would miss the mark entirely. Has he ever even been? Has he seen a single Tom Bianchi photo? It doesn’t seem so. Even the casting feels off.

That said, I do find some of his blazers and button-ups quite beautiful, potentially worth adding to a wardrobe, but he still hasn’t managed to fully convince me.

 

[andrew]

i usually find something nice or a design gimmick to appreciate on some level at SL, but yeesh this was just lazy and not-good.

 

[Phuel]

Ludovic de Saint Laurent?

You jest, but the blunt reality is our beloved Ludovic puts way more effort into his designing than Anthony. Anthony’s measly offerings of 80s-replicas for the shows, churned out in an exhausting, and now obnoxious, array of clashing colorways, only exists to push the merch/bags/accessories/footwear. To Kerning’s credit, at least the runway looks are up for sale on their site. Whether these 80s-replica costume separates sell or not, it’s still more committed than most of these other bluechip brands that never even bother putting up even a one-off on their site for sale. And no doubt the campaign will be solid.

If he wasn’t such a Tyrone wannabe in his physicality, I’d take Ludoivc a tad more seriously as a creative: His Demeulemeester stunt wasn’t nearly as offensive as TFSers made it out to be. Of course it wasn’t the Ann— but as seperates that evolved from that same place as Ann’s, there were quite a few solid propositions. The boots alone were fantastic. With the wealth of resources and experience of the YSL team, Ludovic has the potential to revision the classic YSL woman— and man, in new ways that’s beyond the same old 1980s Robert Palmer “Addicted to Love” models, and absolutely would offer more than 3 looks in 101 colorways, copied and pasted wholesale from 1988.

Ludovic de Saint Laurent all the way.

 

[LadyJunon]

You jest, but the blunt reality is our beloved Ludovic puts way more effort into his designing than Anthony. Anthony’s measly offerings of 80s-replicas for the shows, churned out in an exhausting, and now obnoxious, array of clashing colorways, only exists to push the merch/bags/accessories/footwear. To Kerning’s credit, at least the runway looks are up for sale on their site. Whether these 80s-replica costume separates sell or not, it’s still more committed than most of these other bluechip brands that never even bother putting up even a one-off on their site for sale. And no doubt the campaign will be solid.

If he wasn’t such a Tyrone wannabe in his physicality, I’d take Ludoivc a tad more seriously as a creative: His Demeulemeester stunt wasn’t nearly as offensive as TFSers made it out to be. Of course it wasn’t the Ann— but as seperates that evolved from that same place as Ann’s, there were quite a few solid propositions. The boots alone were fantastic. With the wealth of resources and experience of the YSL team, Ludovic has the potential to revision the classic YSL woman— and man, in new ways that’s beyond the same old 1980s Robert Palmer “Addicted to Love” models, and absolutely would offer more than 3 looks in 101 colorways, copied and pasted wholesale from 1988.

Ludovic de Saint Laurent all the way.

As myopic as LdSS can be at times, I agree with you. He has grown tremendously since his early collections and with Kering's resources and a menswear director to make things a bit "straighter", he could deliver a really strong YSL that is recognisably sexy and glamourous while being modern.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ If there’s a perfect place for his slinky leather thongs/jockstraps/Spanish flies etc with all the lacing, it’s at YSL— as a rightful tribute to Yves’ fetishwear for all things leather and BDSMish. Anthony’s 1988 leathers always look so cumbersome and sluggish, while Ludovich’s leathers have always look second-skin. And just adding Ludovich’s dripping wet, steamy, and oiled up playthings in leather thongs and a trenchcoat tothe classic YSL cold, ice queen in power shoulders to is enough of an incentive to get rid of Tony.

The branding of the shows and campaigns isn’t that hard: I’m sure Ludovic can run through old magazine archives, check out old shows on youtube, in addition to his always reliable Mapplethorpe references (no doubt the Alexander Fury will loose his sh!t for real, for once), would make for more juicy visuals than the current beanpoles on parade.

We jest-- and may or may not be trolling for Ludovic at YSL, but he’s sounding more and more a convincing instalment as YSL's CD LMFAO

 

[brandon J pierre]

This is too much clothing for Fire Island. The gays wear much less.

I'm going to fire Island for the first time next week with my wife. ordered over 20 jockstraps from Amazon. Thinking about wearing white shirts instead.

 

[Lola701]

It’s really not good.
It looks sloppy and unflattering.
But I guess it will be wonderfully photographed by Glen Luchford. That’s the Vaccarello trick!

 

[eugenius]

Taken from their IG page. Perhaps it’s the lighting, but that fabric looks like it’d wrinkle way too easily, and would be a b*tch to iron out. Feeling…unsure.

 

[jeanclaude]

Taken from their IG page. Perhaps it’s the lighting, but that fabric looks like it’d wrinkle way too easily, and would be a b*tch to iron out. Feeling…unsure.

View attachment 1390663

Looks like they left the whole collection inside a washing machine for a week.

 

[Kanzai]

Alexander Fury’s obsession with this collection is honestly hilarious — it just feels so forced, LMAO.
His bias for Galliano, Azzedine, Miuccia, and Lacroix has always been obvious, but seriously… imagine praising current Prada or YSL with a straight face.

Girl, I’d take Angelo Flaccavento’s opinions over yours any day.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I always know to expect very little from his YSL. He’s a curator and stylist of sorts there, not a designer so really all this does is serve the purpose of imagery. He’s great at creating a mood, but when you look beyond that it’s all so incredibly vacuous and empty.

But that’s the selling point of it all. You look at it and it requires next to no thought whatsoever. You can consume it in a matter of seconds and lots of people like that. There’s no challenge, no grit yet also no actual joy. Baseline formulaic propositions that caters to those that want to appear more than they are, and that’s okay.

From a business point of view I’m not sure how long it’ll last, though the vast majority of designers and houses are operating this way. This might be a little heavy handed and esoteric to say over a collection such as this, but it really makes you questions capacity for personality and emotion. It’s alarming at how banal this all is but it’s easy to understand why. This does extend to others, not just here mind you.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

You know, for me Saint Laurent is like Pepsi Max, "it's bad, but I like it".

But the level of laziness is reaching depths that even for me are problematic.
Three styling tricks, seven garments in different colors and cool sunglasses is all we can expect from a house called Saint Laurent?

 

[disco54]

Its like a collection of museum clothes from 1987 but without any soul , in contrast the LV collection has soul and life, its not amazing but it is something which resonates with modern men.

 

[tourbillions]

his menswear went from "im interestted to see more" to unwearable

 

[jeremydante]

Collection stills do the collection better justice.
The attempt to do a washed out visual with the show video didn't land.
Colors were blown out and it felt more about the video than the collection; should be the other way around.

 

[andrew]

Taken from their IG page. Perhaps it’s the lighting, but that fabric looks like it’d wrinkle way too easily, and would be a b*tch to iron out. Feeling…unsure.

View attachment 1390663

guessing this is some kind of cotton-silk-cupro blend that looks amazing for exactly 10 seconds worn and turns into a shiny trash bag once you sit down.