Saint Laurent Pre-Fall 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

The round shoulders coats are so 80’s Azzedine!

 

[LadyJunon]

I feel like this would've made a better runway show than the one we got. The silhouettes here communicate "Modernized 80s Couture" much better too.

 

[Avonlea]

While it's beautiful and I greatly appreciate that there is someone designing for grown women instead of tik tok kids, I find it soulless. Just another collection of archival pieces chosen by Anthony.

 

[yslforever]

While it's beautiful and I greatly appreciate that there is someone designing for grown women instead of tik tok kids, I find it soulless. Just another collection of archival pieces chosen by Anthony.

Sure Anthony isn't one who explores, though there are more interesting pieces here than in the runway shows: I see 4 different prints, butterflies, some burnout velvet (!!!), and a wider variety of both texture and silhouettes. That's some wild experimentation for him.

It's clear Anthony is mostly a story-teller now, that's the talent he did not have before Saint-Laurent and that he nurtured there. The photography of the lookbook is absolutely stunning, the models are killing it.
If I had to speculate, he's positively inspired by all the filmmakers and photographs who gravitate around Saint-Laurent; Jarmusch, Cronenberg, Almodovar, Easton Ellis, Beecroft, Moriyama, Noé, Wong Kar-Wai, Wing Shya... Plus Saint-Laurent Productions...

His interest is in image-making now, inspired by cinematographers , so clearly his Saint-Laurent is not in the trend of many others, which are much more inspired by the music scene : Hedi Slimane, all the designers brought by Kanye (Demna, Williams, Abloh etc), Pharell Williams, all the collabs with rappers (Future at Lanvin etc)
I am glad the current Saint-Laurent has a different, unique, source of inspiration.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

A lot of the coats and shearling pieces are rather gorgeous. Great leathers on display too.

But it's devoid of any emotion, which you really need when looking at this kind of design ethos. Some sensuality is needed and that isn't happening, making it feel too directly 80s. It looks modernised, but it isn't very modern.

And despite the experimentation with some different textiles and prints, there isn't much of a commitment so you know Anthony still is not that comfortable with them. Enjoy this more than fall 2023 though, even if I do find the shoulder pads in this to be a bit much.

 

[tourbillions]

always beautiful but he is plateauing and seems to not know where to take his saint laurent.

 

[Kennnnn]

It looks modernised, but it isn't very modern.

Yes, 100%.

On a positive note, this is a pleasant nostalgia trip for everyone who loves 80s Alaia, Montana; and Helmut Newton. And for younger people, perhaps a gateway to discovering that generation of Paris designers.

 

[Overindulgence]

It's nice, and once again I appreciate it, but it's almost redundant. I wish he would inject some color and vibrancy back into his collections. His Fall 2020 for the brand still remains a favorite of mine for that reason - he's better at color than he may think. It's drab, given Balenciaga has already been doing almost exclusively monotone collections for years now anyways.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

Am digging the 80s power lady