Saint Laurent Resort 2022 Paris

[Frederic01]

A preview of the Resort 2022 collection.










YSL.COM/

 

[Kimy Jo]

Loved the first boots

 

[dior_couture1245]

So done with this hollow, fake fierce look.

 

[Overindulgence]

I like it when Vaccarello evokes his inner Decarnin, Tom Ford, and whatever mood he was in when he did his F/W 2020 and S/S 2022 shows. I don't so much like it when he tries to evoke Slimane circa 2015 (with the 70s type looks--circle glasses, chokers, velvet mini dresses, fedoras, etc. that all just feels so passé now).

 

[Avonlea]

At this point all his collection start to blur together. He is just as bad as Mary Disgrace. His take on sex and eroticism couldn't be more shallow and superficial. It has been a few years since the first show and I still see a lazy designer who is very unsure of his vision. A cool aesthetic, although helpful, will never be enough.

 

[reese06]

It's not elevated enough for me.

It's giving Instagram and Tumblr mood board. I wish he would design more and stop relying on a mood. I think his namesake brand was great and I thought he would do wonders with the resources he has at Saint Laurent but this is falling flat for me.

The accessories and shoes are again the standout but those crystal mesh boots are a bit late. I've seen them in the $20 dress boutiques in Soho/NYC for maybe even two years now. Although the design of the toe and heel on these is more refined.

I need a more ambitious proposition from him.

 

[Frederic01]

Charlotte Gainsbourg wearing a few looks from the collection earlier this year at the Venice Film Festival.




ZIMBIO

 

[dior_couture1245]

Yikes! Even worse!

 

[kasper!]

#7 Those platform boots are terrible! Please burn them...!Worst look from her.

 

[Lola701]

Charlotte needs to go back to Ghesquiere already. Tired of the black and Parisienne already…

 

[liberty33r1b]

so bad omg

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Really loving the product. That strapless white dress is the perfect length. Vaccarello really understands how to highlight the female form. Compared to Hedi, his approach is less about capturing the sensual and more about contributing to natural beauty. Looking forward to seeing the remainder of the collection.

 

[leyy]

Zara ruined everything for me because all I see is Zara

 

[Fulton St Critique]

@leyy Quick question, when you say you have seen this in Zara before is that supposed to be compliment or a slight of SL? Do the images resemble similar styles that you appreciated? I remember reading similar comments on Hedi’s work at Celine, the apparel had a similar look to that of Zara pieces a few people pointed out. However, I am not sure they realize how drastically different this and Celine’s work is from Zara, right? Outside of say, a slight similarity in facades, the garments are totally different.

And if this was you throwing shade at SL, how is it possible that these pieces resemble anything to what is in a Zara store IRL now? I saw a black blazer at H&M a couple months ago, does that mean that we should throw out look 2 from above? Or how about the platform boots? I have seen scalloped hemlines and necklines before, therefore I should be discounting look six entirely? The judgment is a little concerning if you are comping SL to Zara when in all reality that is like comparing apples to oranges…

 

[RedSmokeRise]

@Fulton St Critique I was about to say the white sheath dress is pretty darn perfect.

 

[leyy]

@Fulton St Critique Honestly is neither a compliment nor a shade. I just feel the overall look of the clothing, photography, posing creates a bit of generic outcome that resembles something I might have seen on Zara (specially that last dress).

I think because Zara has really stepped out in their ad game it also made me expect more/something different from these expensive designers? I know Zara is literally a rip-off of these collections to a tee. However, I feel before I could tell something was more luxurious. Now I see these pictures and can fool myself to see them as the same quality, with the plus of Zara being 100x less pricey.

I don't think it is about the look per se, as you said it is impossible to see a black blazer unlike any other, and at the end fashion is about trends (I'm also thinking about those platform strappy shoes Versace started and now there are the Valentino ones, and I'm sure we'll see them everywhere this year), wearable clothes can only have many differences and are bound to be repeated and that's fine for me. The thing for me is about what is the discourse now about what else do SL have to offer. When I see these looks and the overall picture I don't get excited at all, I don't see $2,000 clothes: the only one that I can see buying and see it as a luxurious material is the white dress; the rest look cheap imo, and would prefer to wait for the Zara ripoff.

 

[THD96]

I mean why trying to design something thoughtful or reflecting the complex history of a house founder like YSL. When they can send out fast fashion designs packaging it with "better quality, materials, etc..." Not to mentioned the fact that non of the clothes from above pictures offer anything that the SL clients didn't own already.

Once upon a time not long ago, high fashion brands used to distance themselves from all fast fashion through creativity and the uniqueness in their designs. Nowadays, HF desperately chasing after FF with all these pointless seasons that served no purpose beside make more money. Pre-spring / Resort, Pre-Fall, what next Pre-Summer, Pre-Winter. Seriously do you need to buy expensive clothes that have few tweaks here and there every 2 months.

If someone send me this randomly I can easily mistake it for missguided because even Zara is move on from this aesthetic.

 

[LadyJunon]

Once upon a time not long ago, high fashion brands used to distance themselves from all fast fashion through creativity and the uniqueness in their designs. Nowadays, HF desperately chasing after FF with all these pointless seasons that served no purpose beside make more money. Pre-spring / Resort, Pre-Fall, what next Pre-Summer, Pre-Winter. Seriously do you need to buy expensive clothes that have few tweaks here and there every 2 months.

I think the actual use of a pre-collection heavily on the brand.

For Brand A, it could a extra marketing opportunity by showing in a foreign country or a famous landmark.

For Brand B, it could be the way they are financially successful, despite presenting conceptual collections at Fashion Week.

For Brand C, it's a transparent venture to sell more clothes, more often without making too much effort.

For Brand D, it might be the only type of collection they make, because buyers are allocated larger budgets for those collections and they last longer in stores.

For YSL, it's most likely a mix of B and C. Most of the collection that was presented in September (like its predecessors) won't even go into production. What is produced are the bags and the shoes (with several modifications made to avoid permanently crippling anyone who as much as glances at them). This is a safer, more secure sell.

And the slow, but inevitable end of the high fashion/fast fashion divide is due to the high fashion industry trying to appeal to a generation that specialises in "dismantling", "disrupting" and "eating the rich" AKA a generation that wants high fashion dead and gone. The line is also blurred by the rise of Instagram and digitally native brands that sell for more than fast fashion, but less than high fashion.

It's all just a tangled mess, really.

 

[Frederic01]

Once upon a time not long ago, high fashion brands used to distance themselves from all fast fashion through creativity and the uniqueness in their designs. Nowadays, HF desperately chasing after FF with all these pointless seasons that served no purpose beside make more money. Pre-spring / Resort, Pre-Fall, what next Pre-Summer, Pre-Winter. Seriously do you need to buy expensive clothes that have few tweaks here and there every 2 months.

I used to think the same before someone working at the top of one of these European luxury houses explained to me that these Pre-Fall / Resort collections are mainly created with "new" customers in mind. That is, someone who buys leather-goods and accessories at the brand, but hasn't yet ventured out into buying RTW. This segment of the customer base is more risk-averse than the customers who typically buy RTW from the shows, hence why they need a watered-down version of the Maison's aesthetic. They want to buy classic pieces that will stand the test of time aka. nothing too trendy, as a so called "investment piece".

People that are regular RTW customers order directly after the show, and as you can imagine, typically go for the more "avant-garde" looks. They rarely buy from Pre-Collections. Saint Laurent also actually produces quite a lot of its runway collection too. Everything is available to order if you make a deposit of 50% at the time of Pre-Order. Even those feather pieces at the end of the Spring Summer 2018 collection were produced (and sold) on a made-to-order basis. They were the price of Haute Couture!

So whilst these collections may look boring and redundant to us on a surface level, they are in fact a strategic move for these brands to attract and develop new RTW customers, in order to turn them into legacy brand ambassadors aka. loyal customers that will purchase every season and convert others to do the same through word of mouth.

 

[Norden]

I always felt the pre collection is the late 90s early 2000s diffusion line. Even rad hourani had one hahah. I always thought the diffusion line was a more cleaner separation for most brands, to not dilute the main brand. For brands like Helmut lang it always made sense to have super accessible pieces in the mainline. Like jeans.

here at SL it falls flat and reduces the brands prestige for the long run. But this is all bla bla. These brands are making tons of money. So their strategies are working.