Saint Laurent Resort 2023 Paris

[tricotineacetat]

I’m a bit tired of seeing skintight long sleeved column dresses and basic draping on silk jersey in various brands.

Agreed to that - How this trend can have such persistence is a miracle to me as those kind of dresses do nothing to the majority of women out there and are as lazy in terms of design as they can get.

As much as I found his last show to be visually appealing, there is something quite 'skimpy' about the way he dresses his waif-thin girls that looks unfinished or downright lazy. The clothes barely cover, let alone support the body wearing them.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

lots of product for the stores,

I think that’s why I love it.

IMO we’ve been conditioned to view fashion and fashion shows/look books as events that are put on to lure customers into purchasing a fragrance or sneaker. We look down on these labels for putting on a show that we decide might cost between $1,000,0000-$10,000,000 depending on how annoyed we are that day. But they are desperately needed. I love going to shops after collections are finally produced and actually feeling the garments after waiting for months. It’s such a great experience and wouldn’t be the same without seeing photos or watching the shows online.

Simply put, these shows are put on… to sell clothes and product- especially when AV shows such a merch friendly collection. Yes the marketing ploy might be a driving force to generate sales in other categories for the brand, but really, it’s all about showcasing a product. So when you say “A lot of product for the stores”, yes, there are, and I think that was the point.

This proposition is very commercial because it was designed by a very commercial designer, not in terms of “what % of YSL’s revenue can be attributed to the sale of RTW”, but rather because AV designs clothes that are desirable and for the most part, practical- just like Yves did. Being commercial is not an insulte, being a sellout is.

I thought this particular collection felt more AV than YSL also, I wish he would explore more of himself rather than relying on the archive as much as he has been recently.

 

[LadyJunon]

I think that’s why I love it.

IMO we’ve been conditioned to view fashion and fashion shows/look books as events that are put on to lure customers into purchasing a fragrance or sneaker. We look down on these labels for putting on a show that we decide might cost between $1,000,0000-$10,000,000 depending on how annoyed we are that day. But they are desperately needed. I love going to shops after collections are finally produced and actually feeling the garments after waiting for months. It’s such a great experience and wouldn’t be the same without seeing photos or watching the shows online.

Simply put, these shows are put on… to sell clothes and product- especially when AV shows such a merch friendly collection. Yes the marketing ploy might be a driving force to generate sales in other categories for the brand, but really, it’s all about showcasing a product. So when you say “A lot of product for the stores”, yes, there are, and I think that was the point.

This proposition is very commercial because it was designed by a very commercial designer, not in terms of “what % of YSL’s revenue can be attributed to the sale of RTW”, but rather because AV designs clothes that are desirable and for the most part, practical- just like Yves did. Being commercial is not an insulte, being a sellout is.

I thought this particular collection felt more AV than YSL also, I wish he would explore more of himself rather than relying on the archive as much as he has been recently.

I believe that it was the "CSM alumni wave" that started in the 80s and continued to the mid-00s that have conditioned us to see "commercial" fashion as inferior, but fashion likes to forget that lots of those designers struggled immensely to survive off that work in their early years, before they learned to make fully merchandised collections.

This trend is continued among a large majority of modern CSM graduates who expect the fashion industry to be like the fine-arts industry, blame LVMH and Kering because their "art" don't appeal to anyone outside of the "broke art student bubble" and look down at their peers who have found some sort success in the industry.

Running a fashion label, down to the operational essentials, is reasonably expensive. Creating a small collection of around 10 looks, shooting it on a model (who isn't your weirdo friend) for press and buyers, produce a small run of the pieces, selling it online, etc. is at least €15-25k. That's easily €50k for the year, more than the average yearly salary in France, and that cost has to be sustained somehow.

This is why I have a lot of respect for Belgian designers. Margiela, Van Noten, Demeulemeester, Van Beirendonck were conceptual designers for their time, but they were always conscious of their bottom line that would allow them to continue doing what they loved. Even later generations like Theyskens, Vaccarello, Martens and Botter have that thread of pragmatism in the design theories.

 

[Bernie Flood]

These few looks are giving me serious Demna for Balenciaga vibes if you ignore the Cassandre logo… not too sure if it’s a good thing

Thats what I’m thinking too! Wonder if Anthony will be going to Balenciaga instead of Gucci

 

[LadyJunon]

Thats what I’m thinking too! Wonder if Anthony will be going to Balenciaga instead of Gucci

While it would be nice to see Balenciaga go back to a pure unadulterated elegance, I feel that Vaccarello lacks the technical skills the house would require.

 

[yslforever]

lots of product for the stores,

It's already on sale, on the website and shop floors, for immediate purchase or preorder.