Saint Laurent S/S 2025 Paris

[blueorchid]

Is that the worst someone’s ever looked wearing SL?

 

[JohannesL]

That colour palette looks like it came from the abyss that is Sabato's headspace.

Or Michele’s Gucci/Valentino!

 

[yslforever]

It is terrible but tbh they are a terrible ambassador too. Always looks so miserable in everything she wears.

 

[reese06]

I’m a sucker for great legs in black stockings with a pointed toe pump so while I’m not crazy for this collection she sells it for me

 

[Constructionist]

To me, those last looks (the non suit ones) look more like a sexy version of Alessandro's Gucci than what the YSL client has gone for ever since Hedi Slimane was there. Having said that, I'm no fan of Hedi, but I prefer more what he was doing than this abrupt new change of direction.

I suspect AV was feeling he was about to get fired, so he resorted to make a quite literal YSL archive reference. When I saw those suits, it reminded me of no one but YSL himself. He's basically doing what Chemena is doing for Chloé. And that is what is so wrong about this collection, because it's not translated into a modern language or infused with real creativity at all. I'm pretty sure you can find those shiny jackets at a thrift shop (in inferior quality, of course, but what's the sense?) and I'm sorry, but buying menswear inspired suits from YSL was groundbreaking in the 70s when Bianca Jagger did it, but not nowadays when Zara and every second brand is producing that sort of stuff. As a woman, I am not going to spend a lot of money on designer suits, but I look to high fashion designers for the real creative and out of the ordinary stuff, the special clothes. They also better be modern, not some sort of nostalgic revival, because there are vintage and thrift shops for that.

Well said. Especially the part about Zara, because luxury fashion has become less innovative tha fast fashion and it's a shame.

 

[Living Proof]

Like we all initially said, a well-styled show does not equate to a well-designed collection. Outside of runway/editorial settings these clothes just don’t work.

 

[carla56]

I really hate this thing of wearing the full outfit as it was in the runway… and they also pay stylists to repeat it… even the curls on Zoe and Elle are the same from the runway… come on girls, take off the tie, open some buttons of the shirt, show us some personality…

 

[FashionPower]

Another commercial flop incoming from Anthony, his vision translates terribly in real life and among women who are not size 0.
If it wasn't for that Cassandre logo shown on every possible bag chosen by Karens and girlies with no knowledge of fashion who still wants to flex logo, Saint Laurent would be in worse condition than Gucci.
Sales assistant are having hard times selling Anthony's RTW for 2 years straight now, the last decent collection in terms of RTW sellability was Fall 2022, with the exception of Spring 2024. This is allegedly an insight from the SL store in Milan, however I totally understand the reason for the stagnant sales.
- Spring 2023: flop with the Skims bodycon jersey dresses and the floor length leather trench coats
- Fall 2023: flop with the ridiculous oversize exaggerated shoulders
- Spring 2024: not bad with the Saharienne jackets, the jumpsuits however...
- Fall 2024: gonna be a flop with the hosiery collection

 

[Frederic01]

Emma's Saint Laurent exit looked better with the jacket on, but for some reason she/they took it off for most of the premiere. I can't find any decent photos of the look with the jacket on anymore though!

 

[NoInvite]

I like Emma's look.
But again, how will this translate in the shops? His clothes now are so bad in the stores.

 

[blueorchid]

If it wasn't for that Cassandre logo shown on every possible bag chosen by Karens and girlies with no knowledge of fashion who still wants to flex logo, Saint Laurent would be in worse condition than Gucci.

Isn't that funny, though? So we have a designer who apparently hates merchandise... and yet that's all they can really sell with his collections. Jesus... his collections are very "I want to see how Zara is gonna interpret it, because it'll probably be better."

 

[Alquimista]

I find the pants really elegant but the jacket and tie is too extreme

 

[LadyJunon]

Another commercial flop incoming from Anthony, his vision translates terribly in real life and among women who are not size 0.
If it wasn't for that Cassandre logo shown on every possible bag chosen by Karens and girlies with no knowledge of fashion who still wants to flex logo, Saint Laurent would be in worse condition than Gucci.
Sales assistant are having hard times selling Anthony's RTW for 2 years straight now, the last decent collection in terms of RTW sellability was Fall 2022, with the exception of Spring 2024. This is allegedly an insight from the SL store in Milan, however I totally understand the reason for the stagnant sales.
- Spring 2023: flop with the Skims bodycon jersey dresses and the floor length leather trench coats
- Fall 2023: flop with the ridiculous oversize exaggerated shoulders
- Spring 2024: not bad with the Saharienne jackets, the jumpsuits however...
- Fall 2024: gonna be a flop with the hosiery collection

At this point, I'm already preparing myself for his replacement (who will probably suck).

 

[JohannesL]

At this point, I'm already preparing myself for his replacement (who will probably suck).

Huishan Zhang Revisits ‘Belle de Jour’ for Pre-fall, Nods to the Costumes Yves Saint Laurent Designed​

The designer seduced with black fishnet tights, peeks of flesh and fish scale sequins.

ByHikmat Mohammed December 13, 2024, 10:39am

Looks like someone is lining up for the audition！

 

[JohannesL]

I like Emma's look.
But again, how will this translate in the shops? His clothes now are so bad in the stores.

I don’t dislike that look like most members maybe with better undergarment will do the trick, but the overall effect of the dress is like Michelle’s leftover even though the color palette is archive YSL.

 

[Kimihiro]

I hate what they’re doing at YSL—especially branding wise. This whole digging the archive thing. It feels like they’re going back to that dusty, over licensed era YSL had, when Yves was in a rut. Like have you seen the new packagings? They look cheap with that truncated Cassandre logotype. I never liked it spelled out.

I’m one of the few who liked Hedi’s rebranding. It made things sleeker and fresh. I always felt like YSL should stand for something forward. As for Anthony’s clothes, they’re an afterthought at this point. It’s all for show. The merchandise in the stores plastered with YSL logos look cheap, second only to Givenchy’s outlet specials.

If he’s getting fired where would he go? I don’t think he’s one of those that’s desirable for other houses. He doesn’t have a personal vision. He could work at Versace perhaps.

 

[Lola701]

^^
I love the new (old) branding.
I find Hedi’s branding highly unpersonal. The packaging is great.
However, I’m not sold on the stores.
I haven’t been fan of the stores designs since Stefano left.

Another commercial flop incoming from Anthony, his vision translates terribly in real life and among women who are not size 0.
If it wasn't for that Cassandre logo shown on every possible bag chosen by Karens and girlies with no knowledge of fashion who still wants to flex logo, Saint Laurent would be in worse condition than Gucci.
Sales assistant are having hard times selling Anthony's RTW for 2 years straight now, the last decent collection in terms of RTW sellability was Fall 2022, with the exception of Spring 2024. This is allegedly an insight from the SL store in Milan, however I totally understand the reason for the stagnant sales.
- Spring 2023: flop with the Skims bodycon jersey dresses and the floor length leather trench coats
- Fall 2023: flop with the ridiculous oversize exaggerated shoulders
- Spring 2024: not bad with the Saharienne jackets, the jumpsuits however...
- Fall 2024: gonna be a flop with the hosiery collection

Tbh, I don’t think the runway collection is an issue itself. Vaccarello has that advantage that every season, he pushes a POV (even though he is not really pushing it in terms of fashion). There’s quite an extensive range of products in terms of RTW at YSL. It’s quite wardrobe oriented but unfortunately, there’s not so much depth in terms of translation between the runway collection and the retail.

And because it seems like the edit made on the runway is literally what is in the stores, there’s not much food to eat. Example: you see a beautiful dress on the runway, you will have a more practical version in the stores, if it has special details, they will be find on a pant or a skirt or prints…Basic merchandising I must say.

The other issue I must say is that Saint Laurent has kind of outpriced itself.
I think we discussed of it with @yslforever on the SS2024 but their direct competition, Celine is much more interesting in terms of pricing at full retail prices.
Over the past 2 years, YSL RTW has become ridiculous in terms of pricing.
2K for cargo cotton pants from the SS collection is ridiculous. Sure, there are pants at 1K in grain de poudre and things like that but they are almost like part of a permanent collection.

Finally, I don’t know if I should really say it but Saint Laurent, for such a leading brand, always kind of look the same every time. My point is, since Vaccarello took over, Saint Laurent has mostly been about a refreshed version of the same inspirations from the 70’s and 80’s.
So the presentation is always slick but I don’t know if the product is that special enough anymore. There’s no seasonal print, added details, special tweak that makes those clothes to die for!
The shoes are to die for because they are dangerous and sexy but the clothes…