Schiaparelli F/W 2024.25 Paris

[Nimsay]

I mean all Skap has been is 80s redos. The issue is when it comes to actually selling RTW. theyre struggling with differentiating themselves from Balmain. Without those charm like buttons this stuff would be indistinguishable from Balmain. Reliance on charm like novelty buttons is like unheard of when creating a real fashion house. Novelty buttons are a Moschino code and look at their situation.

This collection is an attempt at providing a wearable wardrobe. However it doesnt scream Skap. It screams claude montana thierry mugler issey miyake… for the price points Skap needs to put metal ears on everything or else we wont know what it js. I have advised people to buy a Schiaparelli blazer with all the charm on it - it fits just like a Balmain and fits into the Balmain world. I just think unless it has those charms on it its not worth it. Like just get a skilled tailor to remake a montana original … save money

That green dress with the drape off the shoulder. Its gorgeous. Im 100% sure Olivier showed the same thing probably in the same color bc u know he loves olive green.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Whoever gave final approval for the heels should be talked to (probably Daniel, but still). So many of the heels caved further inwards further and were rendered useless in the end. Poor models, as you can see them walking strongly at first but by the end there was an awkwardness to their gait as they had to re-balance themselves constantly.

He just doesn't excite me as a designer. Sure this is a better output, but I'm a bit over the gold and black combo from him, and what I find to be a very stiff design output. He's too much of a twee designer, loves to work with his comforts and seems to be a bit afraid of working outside of their box.

 

[Scotty]

indigital

 

[RaisinBoy]

Old fashioned…. It just is

 

[Deleted member 1957]

I like that he's finally stepping out of that overly embellished phase. I loved it but it was getting monotonous. This looks luxe and rtw at the same time. It does have that glam late 80s/early 90s vibe. Thanks for the BTS posts.

This model is so stunning she reminds me of Grace Jones in her earlier years

vogue

 

[Fiercification]

^ Rejoice Chuol; she was the standout at this show for me.

I feel like this finally looks less stuffy than his past collections. You can trace his inspirations without much effort, but hey, I never expect him to offer something original or fresh.

With the exception of the unflattering fit on Karolin's oversized jacket most of the pieces look quite desirable and streamlined on the whole. That said they may not have look(ed) so good without such a strong cast.

 

[Mr-Dale]

also, you can thank les petites mains for the technical execution of his “vision”. he had nothing to with it. i doubt he’s even taken a single sewing class in his life; he’s just an illustrator.

This is a non-argument, as it's true for a lot of great designers and CDs out there. Karl was an illustrator, Galliano is an illustrator first, etc. If you think you can reduce what it entails to be a creative director to drawing a few outfits every now and then, then you are wrong.

Anyway, finally some lightness for the brand! It's making the stiffer garments look out of place actually...really could've done without those leather pieces in the middle. I remain undecided on the denim injection tbh. Appreciate the continued (much-needed) reduction of embellishments. Not my highlight of the season, but I like it.

 

[Kennnnn]

Some of this reminds me of Fausto Puglisi, unfortunately.

 

[Deleted member 141309]

Beautiful, but I am feared for this direction. I hope he keeps laser focus, because otherwise it is too close to the territory of Versace, Balmain or Loewe. It does look like a great mash up of these three + Schiaparelli. A good collection indeed, hopefully he does not lose himself.

 

[Lola701]

also, you can thank les petites mains for the technical execution of his “vision”. he had nothing to with it. i doubt he’s even taken a single sewing class in his life; he’s just an illustrator.

Im always perplexed when I read this kind of arguments…
My grandmother was a « petite main », a « couturière-modéliste» whatever and she couldn’t design a dress. She admired the Couturier she was working for even if everything he did was quote on quote « drawing ».
What is required for a designer is to know technical execution. So therefore you shouldn’t design something you won’t know how to execute because if a seamstress or a premiere comes and as about the technicality, you would look quite dumb in front of her.

Even if Azzedine has made it cool to throw rocks at those who don’t sew, despite him admiring Christian Dior (whose famous bar was executed by Pierre Cardin) and executing the Mondian Dress for YSL and pantsuits for Thierry Mugler, a drawer is as much of a technician as a sewer.

Much like shoe designers are not necessarily shoemakers. Salvatore Ferragamo was a shoemaker at heart. Roger Vivier was a designer and wasn’t in the factory executing shoes. But both designers are legends in their fields because they knew everything about the making of a shoe.

 

[jeremydante]

I loved the collection, personally I am not a fan of gold hardware - I know it's a house signature, but still. I love all the looks, Daniel is EATING at Schiaparelli. Loved this seasons showing sooooooo much. Great work.

 

[gallianostan]

thinking more and more deeply about this brand, it's identity and history, i've begun to realise that (in like a funny, ironic, flop kind of way) daniel might possibly be the rightful heir to elsa schiaparelli's house or approach to fashion. much like her, he couldn't sew, cut, drape or knit and instead of creating functional, pragmatic and utilitarian clothing like her rival gabrielle, their work is full of lofty, intellectual ideas that are rooted in a very specific historical and cultural context. but the passage of time will not be kind to either of them. their work isn't timeless and they doesn't hold up well like chanel's work does. i know people rag on chanel for being a nazi collaborator but her influence on fashion and the way women dress everywhere is so seismic that i can't help but feel like her life was a tragedy. she was a genius, and b*tch if i saw this random italian aristocrat who couldn't cut or sew for sh*t i would try to set her on fire too. just some random thoughts i was having. i think daniel will end up being a total commerical flop in the same way elsa was (but UNLIKE elsa he's actually a creative flop oops)

 

[Alquimista]

Im always perplexed when I read this kind of arguments…
My grandmother was a « petite main », a « couturière-modéliste» whatever and she couldn’t design a dress. She admired the Couturier she was working for even if everything he did was quote on quote « drawing ».
What is required for a designer is to know technical execution. So therefore you shouldn’t design something you won’t know how to execute because if a seamstress or a premiere comes and as about the technicality, you would look quite dumb in front of her.

Even if Azzedine has made it cool to throw rocks at those who don’t sew, despite him admiring Christian Dior (whose famous bar was executed by Pierre Cardin) and executing the Mondian Dress for YSL and pantsuits for Thierry Mugler, a drawer is as much of a technician as a sewer.

Much like shoe designers are not necessarily shoemakers. Salvatore Ferragamo was a shoemaker at heart. Roger Vivier was a designer and wasn’t in the factory executing shoes. But both designers are legends in their fields because they knew everything about the making of a shoe.

I will die without understanding why people use this sort of argument when talking about DESIGN. Maybe because design and craft have a close relantionship in fashion? Maybe is the english art school spirit idk. But it sounds absurd to me. It's like saying Frank Gehry can't build because he didn't build the Fondation Louis Vuitton. hahaha

 

[Alquimista]

About the collection: glamourous but stuffy. He needs to relax a bit.

and the things they're selling online are very stuffy too. It's like vintage from 1988.

 

[BitterFashionQueen90]

Why are the shoes always so bad!!!

 

[susseinmcswanny]

He is fashion's version of a "content" creator.

 

[jeanclaude]

He is fashion's version of a "content" creator.

Right! Everything feels like a filler for monetization!

 

[lhhbl]

Glamorous! I live for Saskia's coat!

 

[gallianostan]

guess this eyesore could help to finally generate some revenue?/s

 

[Salvatore]

Why is my dumb*ss interested in these ! I kind of like them.