Schiaparelli Haute Couture F/W 2024.25 Paris

Daniel is so handsome, I swear. Lemme go find this collection video.
 
I really like it!
I feel like seasons after seasons, we are getting there…To something more subtle more refined.
Don’t get me wrong, the sense of refinement in terms of fabrics and execution has always been there but, the desire to shock or to make a statement has always been more the comical side than « pure statement ».

I like that he is having fun with techniques and that his Couture, after all, is not just a beading contest.

What I don’t like the most was probably the slow pace, the over dramatization, that kind feels old fashioned (it reminds me of the nightmare that was the Dior SS2010 Couture). The other thing that I hated, and its design-wise, is those unnecessary shoulders, that again are not walking the fine line between statement and costume.

If I have to imagine what those garments would look like with a less comical shoulder to fully appreciate it, it’s a problem for me.

But I think I get Roseberry’s vision for Couture. It seems very « special dress for a special occasion ». It’s not like Dior or Elie Saab where all the bridesmaids goes to.

I love the look on Malgosia and look 5 is super chic! I think the Gaultier/Alaia dresses on Imaan and the other stunning black girl are really beautiful!

And I have to say that the shoes are fabulous and adds a touch of modernity that was lacking in the presentation.

I still don't understand why 'Lily Bass' from Gossip Girl is there at PFW? Who is the money/PR behind her?
I think she lives in Monaco nowadays but more than that, she starred in the French tv series earlier this year. I think in the beginning it was about getting out there because of that and the resurgence for the interest on GG. And I’ve heard she is polite and pleasant, so PRs loves her, on top of her style.
 
Wow, what a collection. Daniel is brilliant, and the ways they've reintroduced this house is so beautiful. I love all the looks, the staging, the soundtrack- all of it. So pretty. This is what runway and couture are all about. Beautiful pacing, intimate lighting.
 
These are very impressive from a technical point of view. I don’t know much about dressmaking but it seems to me that the work here is beautiful and intricate. However there is no variety in the level of intensity of this collection, every single look seems to aspire to be the most incredible look ever, which in the end maybe becomes too much, in spite of the obvious beauty of many of these looks.
 
For me, I would rather look at old Viktor and Rolf shows. I commend Daniel for being dreamy, but it comes across a little too drag queen.
 
i wish he offered backstage pics in better lighting. Wanna see if the tailoring is as good as the ideas. Cant really hate on this and collections like balmain for example. When everyone is doing minimalism, the fashion crowd + insta crowd need something oppulent to dream about. And he came just in the right time.

I wish he did mcqueen, would be more belivable than the current guy.
 
I always enjoy his collection and this is no exception. I would have edited out some elements like those spiked looks but then again who am I, hes the one heading a historic house. Cant wait to see people wearing some of these on red carpets and in editorials.
 
I pretty quite like it !
Roseberry is honest in his attempt of doing a couture house, and often succeeds.
Tbh I much prefer salon presentations for couture, with the slow walk, models facing the clients and elegantly turning to face other clients, while showing all sides of the dress and how it moves, how it falls, and the effect of the light. That's imho is a real part of the couture experience for the clients

Models fast-walking a long catwalk two meters away from the front row is for ready-to-wear.
 
It’s deliciously old fashioned.

For all his faults with this collection (there a several) its still quite fabulous! I’m not a fan of fashion dipping further towards entertainment industry but if most of these looks end up being red carpet or stage performance I wouldn’t mind.
 
What a presentation!!! It seems to have no real theme behind but it's so interesting to look and at the same time an old fashioned feel but still impressive
 
Once again, I see a lot of other designers here...but little Elsa Schiaparelli. The presentation with the darkness is sophisticated, way more interesting than the collection.

@Kanzai I am very hard to please these days,because I have seen better collections decades ago. So I can say that the more that I see nowadays, the more bored I am.
 

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