Schiaparelli Haute Couture F/W 2023.24 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[LadyJunon]

It's sort of like CommeDesGarçons × Drag Queen × Cultural Appropriation. I like it. It's a shame about the lack of a livestream, since Schiaparelli served as the perfect aesthetic neutraliser for Dior.

 

[Mr-Dale]

Speaking of Dior, my mind immediately went to Dior SS03 couture with those overblown opera coats, flaring sculptured skirts and draped kimonos.

 

[Lola701]

Very Galliano meets Azzedine meets Gaultier…
It’s wild, it’s a bit of a mess but I really like it. I wish he allowed himself to be more simple though. A simple pair of pointy pumps or slingbacks could have been great.

The looks with curved collars are very Azzedine. The look before the last one is very Galliano for the Japanese Dior 2007 collection. Those big volumes also are very Galliano but I think what works here is the chaos in the mix of inspirations.

It does feels like a total expression of creativity and yet, you can easily read the pieces and imagine a clients in this.

I’m surprised to not see black velvet. It has become a bit synonymous with Daniel’s work for Schiaparelli.

Good casting!

 

[Mr Yayo]

The supermodel come backs

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Magdalena and Tanya!?!? That's a sight to see!

I find a lot of this rather awkward. Very little rhyme or reason, even if I do like the texture of things. He needs to figure out better balancing because it goes from fairly over designed looks to something so bare bones with no in between. Plus, with some of these silhouettes I can't help but think that we already have Stephane Rolland doing this in some capacity, do we really need more of the same?

Great bead work though.

 

[Avonlea]

One of his weakest collections. It's as if a teenager designed it after quickly creating a couture moodboard on pinterest.

 

[Salvatore]

I did not enjoy this as a whole. I liked some of the ideas, but it’s too chaotic for my liking and something very unfinished about it. It lacks refinement. Disappointed as I look forward to Roseberry’s Schiaparelli for some fun drama, but it’s been lacking lately.

 

[tourbillions]

He has been doing well in keeping schiaparelli part of the conversation. Also has slowly established a look for their woman. However i'm not sure what is their end game for this "brand revival" or its just to plainly attract couture clients.

 

[LadyJunon]

This video on Schiaparelli's history is quite interesting and explains the success behind Roseberry's Schiaparelli.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

He OD'd on the yas pills. This is like when Olivier tried doing couture at Balmain.

 

[DK92]

I'm really happy to see Tanya, after she said that she had been rejected in all the selection processes that she had participated in a few years ago! Happy for Magda too, hope she's as good mentally as she appears to be physically...

 

[miyawaki]

The only good thing about this is Magdalena

 

[ozztara]

Glad I wasn’t the only one seeing the Dior references, I thought I was seeing something that wasn’t there.

Tbh a lot of what I like in Roseberry’s couture is what I liked featured in couture collections in the past, but freshened. I can understand why it doesn’t appeal to some though. And ofc the casting! His collections are the biggest moments of hit/miss for me lmao.

 

[Squizree]

It IS very Galliano. Maybe a little TOO Galliano in some places, especially the giant folding coats. That said, I think his brand of maximalism fits well in 2023.

And DAMN it's good to see Ai Tominaga.

 

[LadyJunon]

Show video:

 

[Deleted member 1957]

Love it and happy to see our 2000s favourites back and they havent aged at all.

 

[fenty]

At least he's doing Dior Couture justice wtf is MGC doing??

 

[Scotty]

Oh, he's coming for Galliano, even down to the casting!

 

[dodencebt]

Honestly there are some standout pieces with clever trompe l'oeil, like the white hand embroidered coat in Look 2 and the wooden arms with the massive coat in Look 14. I'm also loving the Galliano for Dior tributes, those puffer coats are fabulous and current.