Schiaparelli Haute Couture S/S 2025 Paris

[LadyJunon]

Full Show Coverage by StyleNotCom

 

[Salvatore]

I am loving what I see so far.

 

[pradn]

 

[Cocteau Stone]

A fair few nods to McQueens Fall 2004 show here. And I love that collection. Of course there are many other references like Mugler and Gaultier.

I just still can’t get behind his vision. Mainly because I’m so lost as to what it is and what it has to do with Schiaparelli. Everything is so heavy handed and densely executed. It’s well done, but it just has no purpose or life or even colour to it (figuratively and literally). So much of it is just so corny and cliche. Stuck in a time warp in some way.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Please call Agatha Christie.
Another murder in Paris.
Someone was killing it 🤩

 

[BitterFashionQueen90]

Kendall’s look is very Dior Fall Couture 2004

 

[thiago:)]

The dress on Mona looks very Oscar-worthy.

 

[Alquimista]

Not ugly quite beautiful but god it's so rigid heavy

 

[Empress of Dress]

Some very pretty things. Loved the gray gown !

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Not ugly quite beautiful but god it's so rigid heavy

There should be always a sense of risk in Haute Couture, of pushing things to their limits.
I imagine you are referring specially to the first snippet.
Now, there are dresses with frills. And here the dress is just a gigantic frill (crazy idea 😍).
In order to execute properly that idea, you need that material and that construction.
The model can walk in it, and even if it is not light, the model moves gracefully in it.
So Daniel won.

I will watch properly the show this evening when I'm back home, I'm really excited.

 

[proseccotabis]

Gorgeous!!! Repetitive, but gorgeous nonetheless. The only thing that concerns me about Daniels work is that at one point it really does become repetitive. For example with John at Dior there was always this incredible element of surprise, every show. With Schiaparelli it feels safe, nothing scandalous, nothing surprising at all…

 

[GoldenPetals]

Gorgeous. Collections like this are the bread and butter of Haute Couture. Apart from the superb craftsmanship, silhouette etc etc, it's the kind of luxury everybody 'gets', both the wealthy client and the everyday noob.

I think it's one of his best collections because it's light on his usual ostentatiousness.

 

[proseccotabis]

Gorgeous!!! Repetitive, but gorgeous nonetheless. The only thing that concerns me about Daniels work is that at one point it really does become repetitive. For example with John at Dior there was always this incredible element of surprise, every show. With Schiaparelli it feels safe, nothing scandalous, nothing surprising at all…

Ps one thing I didn’t like is Loli boring me with her never ever changing face expression

 

[Creative]

Will never get the hype. There’s nothing original about this brand.

Mix a little bit of Mugler, JPG, Galliano, McQueen… do corny shapes and try to introduce a few gimmicks and voilà!

Also, the collections are a little bit of everything… no direction, no message, just museum pieces that do not communicate to each other.

Meh.

 

[avonlea002]

Also, the collections are a little bit of everything… no direction, no message, just museum pieces that do not communicate to each other.

This is my biggest issue with Daniel and many other designers. They seem to not understand what the word "collection" means. There is no theme, story or even a single gimmick/design element that would connect one look to the other. It's disjointed and forgettable despite the beauty and impressive execution.
It's indeed like a selection of couture pieces from various designers for a museum exhibition.

His collections also have no flow. There are no highs and lows, it's one extreme followed by another, constant visual hammering.

 

[MulletProof]

Collections like this are the bread and butter of Haute Couture.

Yes, I don't really care for Schiaparelli but it reminds me of the HC I grew up following, just so exuberant and rich in technique, beautiful fabrics, details.. a celebration of what distinguishes fashion from the need of having to wear clothes.

 

[vogue22]

This collection is stunning, with amazing craftsmanship and technique, such a refreshing contrast to the gimmicky "couture" elements of Jacquemus's latest show. The McQueen and Galliano-era Dior influences are quite obvious, but I agree with what others have mentioned earlier in the thread, the looks feel pretty disconnected. It almost feels more like a curated selection of archival couture pieces for an exhibition than a cohesive collection.

 

[mepps]

I love it all!
Daniel never misses imo.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

I loved his FW2024 Couture. It’s going to be very difficult for him to top that in my book.

But this is good. I think the Schiaparelli by Roseberry is recognizable in Couture at least. It’s very sculptural, snatched, controlled and there’s an interesting balance between volumes and the lean silhouette.

The quality is quite amazing.

I don’t see Galliano, I don’t see McQueen. The influence of Mugler is still there but I see a lot of classic Couture references.

If there’s one thing about Roseberry that separates him from Mugler is his woman. Mugler was obsessed by the 50’s and Balenciaga but it was always about the fantasy of dominatrix bourgeoise. There’s no perversity in what Roseberry is doing.

His clothes are armors for women. There’s an undeniable power.
It would be good to see some humor in his work.