^^Pics by me and stylebop.com. Thanks Jila for your input!!! The next time I'm gonna use leather I think I'm gonna fuse it. Like you said, you're more sure that the leather is uniform in it's behaviour. Can you use an invisible zipper with leather? An older acquaintance of mine recognized the square from the years 1950/60, but that's all she knew. I will see what my other acquaintance (with lots of coat sewing experience) has to say about it, because the shoulder area has to be different than I have come up with so far. Probably she can solve my problem.