Blodeuwedd
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I posted this link in the Pale Skin thread, but I guess it helps here as well. Below is reviews of the products, and I'm on the way of finding them when money isn't an issue at the moment.
http://www.gothbandphotos.com/prettygothic/lightening/
http://www.gothbandphotos.com/prettygothic/lightening/
Hydroquionine or HQ is the most popular and effective ingredient out there, and is the standard for comparison of all other lighteners. Percentages range from 2% -10% and are usually combined with other ingredients (namely, Tretinoin) to make them more effective. Results usually appear after 2-4 weeks of usage, and plateau after about 4 months.
This product is usually safe overall, but a small percentage of people may experience mild skin irritation or, more famously, exogenus ochronosis. This condition is basically the opposite of what your intentions with lightening are, causing darker skin, mutations and irregularities where applied. However, only those using very high percentages of HQ are at risk, and the product must be used for years before the condition appears. These risks are very minimal with advanced combinations in formulas, but if you get your hands on pure HQ, know the risk of prolonged use and definitely discontinue if it’s not working after 4-6 weeks.
N-acetyl-4-S-cysteaminylphenol is also effective, and has been found to be less irritating than HQ. A study of 12 patients with melasma (brown pigmentation on the cheeks, around the eyes and sometimes on the forehead or above the lip) showed a 66% improvement after 4 weeks of use.
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring substance that has been shown to be as effective as a 4% HQ, when mixed with glycolic acid. It’s a little more irritating than HQ, so those with sensitive skin beware.
Kojic Acid is an antioxidant that is actually consumed in Japan for good health. Topically applied, concentrations range from 1-4%. This is as effective as but more irritating than HQ. DO NOT use any products containing mercury. This will not make you more authentic. It will make you more goth, however, because you will be dead.
If you decide to use a lightener, follow the directions. Some companies, like Shiseido, sell entire lines of products to achieve optimal effects. I’m not rich so I use one product, although I would love to see if there would be a big difference. Results are usually noticeable after 3-4 weeks of daily use, and will fade after discontinuing use. Bleaching cream is usually applied before any moisturizers or makeup, and moisturizer is recommended to soothe the slight exfoliation effect of the lightening ingredients. You must use a sunscreen of at least 30 SPF everyday because your skin will be more susceptible to sun damage since it will have less to protect it naturally, and any exposure will counteract the lightener’s effect. After 4 months of use, you must give your skin a 30 day break.
After two weeks of using Philosophy’s "A Pigment of Your Imagination," I noticed an overall evenness of complexion. Past acne scars and freckles faded, but there was no incredible increase of paleness. It did save me time in putting on makeup because I had less to even out with cover-up. A nice dermatologist or plastic surgeon will assist in stronger concentrations if you are really intent on optimal whiteness. But here are a few over the counter brands that may be helpful -- all products and descriptions can be found at sephora.com. And remember, the price goes up with the potency:
Some Lighteners to Try
Dr. Brandt lightening gel $65
Awake Nano lotion white $40
DDF Skin brightening soap $20 and Intensive Holistic Lightener $45
Decleor Whitening Series $48-$75
Komenuka Bijin Essence (contains no HP!) $40
Philosophy A Pigment of Your Imagination $22
Peter Thomas Roth Lightener Line $45-$110 (they even have a body lightener!)
Phytomer Complete Line $25-$54
Homemade recipes
(I have not tried these, but I’m sure you can achieve some effect with them)
Buttermilk Mask (lactic acid in milk lightens, soothes, and hydrates) 3 Tbl. pulverized bran, 4 Tbl. buttermilk. Mix in food processor until it becomes a paste. Apply for 20 min. and rinse with warm water. Splash with cool water and pat dry.
Lemon Skin Lightening Pack 2 T. fuller’s earth (found at health food stores), 1 tsp. lemon juice, 1 tsp. buttermilk. Mix all ingredients into a paste and apply in light, upward strokes. Leave on for 20 min. Rinse with Skin Lightening Tonic.
Lightening Toner 1 lemon, sliced, 1cup white wine, 1 T. sugar. Place lemon slices and wine in a glass or enamel pot and bring to a boil one minute. Remove from heat, stir in the sugar, let cool. Strain the mixture and store in a tightly capped bottle. Use as a refresher and after masks. Makes 8 oz.
Rose Mask 1 cup heavy cream, 1 t. vanilla, 1 T. honey, petals of one rose. Process lightly in food processor and leave on for 10 min.