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I love how she added a harder edge to many of her recurrent silhouettes.
I love how she added a harder edge to many of her recurrent silhouettes.
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Sophia Kokosalaki F/W 06.07 paris
- Thread starter caryanne
- Start date
Press Reviews
Vogue.co.uk
APPEARING out of nowhere on the timetable (having moved from her original Tuesday evening slot), the Brit-based Grecian designer was a tight squeeze between shows, but the view of the Eiffel Tower through the huge bay windows at the Trocadero venue made it all seem worthwhile. From the white-washed room, bright sunlight from a crisp wintry day poured in and black tunnel through which the models emerged created a crisp clinical setting: the perfect backdrop to Sophia Kokosalaki's very contemporary collection.
Starting with a chunky black fitted coat with embellished lapels, black tights, black shoes, strong and sophisticated daywear started to storm towards the cameras. A single breasted slouchy denim jacket then, Daria Werbowy, Lily Cole and Anouk Lepere - the big girls are all walking the runway for Kokosalaki these days. Lace boots in brown patent, black knee-highs with cuff folded down and with heels that stayed chunky and high. Satin skirts and leathers looked like they had been wrinkled in the rain and pleats twisted pouf skirts round small waists. Maria Carla Boscone in a white crinkled leather trench accessorised with black bangles, a coffee-coloured cable knit cape over sludgy pink - and then the palette moved from monotone to oxbloods to metallics. With leathers and wools, felted metallics, sharp tailoring - such as the grey pant suit with waistcoat worn over the jacket, Kokosalaki showed a refined collection that was gold cyberspace dresses one moment, sleek suiting the next: a sassy streetwise shift in direction.
WWD
Sophia Kokosalaki: Sophia Kokosalaki is at an interesting crossroads. She has made a name for herself with incredibly intricate pleating techniques, but now it's time to build a house — and a business. After all, you can't expect a girl to live by pleats alone. For fall, Kokosalaki tinkered with a tough tailored look, only sending out a handful of her signature pieces. Jackets were cut with dagger-sharp lapels. Ample coats were belted tight. One of the best looks was a mega cozy cape done up in an oversize cableknit.
When Kokosalaki did turn to pleating, she avoided the romanticism of some of her past collections, cutting many of her dresses in hard metallics. Standouts included a black dress that showed off her talent, textured with swirling grooved pleats like a melted record. Clearly, the designer is in experimentation mode. While this wasn't her best collection to date, she has bravely set out to explore new territory.
International Herald Tribune
Sophia Kokosalaki had put a hard edge on her Grecian drapes, and by adding lace-up platform boots as well as touches of gilding, she came up with a fresh spirit. Everything was in the mix: a tailored jacket, with firm 1980s shoulders that turned to show soft draping at the back; or a definitely feminine dress with a round, sculpted neckline. The show was less obviously Hellenistic, yet the Greek culture was absorbed into many outfits. The mix of hard and soft included a gray-green top, with Grecian curlicues on the straps, worn with tuxedo pants rising high.
New York Times
The raw double lapels and fitted body of Sophia Kokosalaki's first belted black coat set the tone of her show: a new sucked-in silhouette from a designer known to most of the world for the tangle of floaty goddess dresses she made for the opening ceremonies of the Athens Olympics. Pleats and ruffles that once gave volume to her designs are now flattened to the body in swirls, twists and scallops of textured gold and black fabric.
The tightness of a leather jacket worn off the shoulder contrasted with a boxy black blazer that stood away from the body, with a square neckline that fell loose at the nape of the neck, and a chunky popcorn knit poncho with big cables running the length of the front and back. These were great sportswear pieces that showed real range.
Style.com
It was the largest collection Sophia Kokosalaki has shown on a Paris runway—a full-fledged run-through from short, belted, multi-collared coats to capes, leather bombers, gray tweed cocoon parkas, cocktail bustiers, and old-gold lamé plissé dresses. It all served to demonstrate how strong she is, both in self-knowledge (sticking to the essentials of her personal taste) and in her awareness of the general direction of fashion. "I never have any one reference any more," she said. "But there was something a bit royal in there that somehow ended up going via glam rock—which is OK by me!"
Kokosalaki's look always turns on a slightly hard New Order-ish eighties vibe that segues, somewhere along the line, into feminine Grecian draping and pleating. This season, she concentrated on developing the layered cuts that other designers are also showing, making complex swathed high collars, putting a peeled-back cuff on the leg of a high platform boot and articulating movement into the components of a slick brown trench. Those, and her body-molded leather bustier dresses, showed her stricter, urban side, while the Greek girl in Kokosalaki worked up silver organza pleating and draped lamé goddess dresses. Taken apart, there are plenty of great pieces in here—and taken as a whole, it's further indication that she is edging up the rankings as an independent designer with a voice of her own.
Vogue.co.uk
APPEARING out of nowhere on the timetable (having moved from her original Tuesday evening slot), the Brit-based Grecian designer was a tight squeeze between shows, but the view of the Eiffel Tower through the huge bay windows at the Trocadero venue made it all seem worthwhile. From the white-washed room, bright sunlight from a crisp wintry day poured in and black tunnel through which the models emerged created a crisp clinical setting: the perfect backdrop to Sophia Kokosalaki's very contemporary collection.
Starting with a chunky black fitted coat with embellished lapels, black tights, black shoes, strong and sophisticated daywear started to storm towards the cameras. A single breasted slouchy denim jacket then, Daria Werbowy, Lily Cole and Anouk Lepere - the big girls are all walking the runway for Kokosalaki these days. Lace boots in brown patent, black knee-highs with cuff folded down and with heels that stayed chunky and high. Satin skirts and leathers looked like they had been wrinkled in the rain and pleats twisted pouf skirts round small waists. Maria Carla Boscone in a white crinkled leather trench accessorised with black bangles, a coffee-coloured cable knit cape over sludgy pink - and then the palette moved from monotone to oxbloods to metallics. With leathers and wools, felted metallics, sharp tailoring - such as the grey pant suit with waistcoat worn over the jacket, Kokosalaki showed a refined collection that was gold cyberspace dresses one moment, sleek suiting the next: a sassy streetwise shift in direction.
WWD
Sophia Kokosalaki: Sophia Kokosalaki is at an interesting crossroads. She has made a name for herself with incredibly intricate pleating techniques, but now it's time to build a house — and a business. After all, you can't expect a girl to live by pleats alone. For fall, Kokosalaki tinkered with a tough tailored look, only sending out a handful of her signature pieces. Jackets were cut with dagger-sharp lapels. Ample coats were belted tight. One of the best looks was a mega cozy cape done up in an oversize cableknit.
When Kokosalaki did turn to pleating, she avoided the romanticism of some of her past collections, cutting many of her dresses in hard metallics. Standouts included a black dress that showed off her talent, textured with swirling grooved pleats like a melted record. Clearly, the designer is in experimentation mode. While this wasn't her best collection to date, she has bravely set out to explore new territory.
International Herald Tribune
Sophia Kokosalaki had put a hard edge on her Grecian drapes, and by adding lace-up platform boots as well as touches of gilding, she came up with a fresh spirit. Everything was in the mix: a tailored jacket, with firm 1980s shoulders that turned to show soft draping at the back; or a definitely feminine dress with a round, sculpted neckline. The show was less obviously Hellenistic, yet the Greek culture was absorbed into many outfits. The mix of hard and soft included a gray-green top, with Grecian curlicues on the straps, worn with tuxedo pants rising high.
New York Times
The raw double lapels and fitted body of Sophia Kokosalaki's first belted black coat set the tone of her show: a new sucked-in silhouette from a designer known to most of the world for the tangle of floaty goddess dresses she made for the opening ceremonies of the Athens Olympics. Pleats and ruffles that once gave volume to her designs are now flattened to the body in swirls, twists and scallops of textured gold and black fabric.
The tightness of a leather jacket worn off the shoulder contrasted with a boxy black blazer that stood away from the body, with a square neckline that fell loose at the nape of the neck, and a chunky popcorn knit poncho with big cables running the length of the front and back. These were great sportswear pieces that showed real range.
Style.com
It was the largest collection Sophia Kokosalaki has shown on a Paris runway—a full-fledged run-through from short, belted, multi-collared coats to capes, leather bombers, gray tweed cocoon parkas, cocktail bustiers, and old-gold lamé plissé dresses. It all served to demonstrate how strong she is, both in self-knowledge (sticking to the essentials of her personal taste) and in her awareness of the general direction of fashion. "I never have any one reference any more," she said. "But there was something a bit royal in there that somehow ended up going via glam rock—which is OK by me!"
Kokosalaki's look always turns on a slightly hard New Order-ish eighties vibe that segues, somewhere along the line, into feminine Grecian draping and pleating. This season, she concentrated on developing the layered cuts that other designers are also showing, making complex swathed high collars, putting a peeled-back cuff on the leg of a high platform boot and articulating movement into the components of a slick brown trench. Those, and her body-molded leather bustier dresses, showed her stricter, urban side, while the Greek girl in Kokosalaki worked up silver organza pleating and draped lamé goddess dresses. Taken apart, there are plenty of great pieces in here—and taken as a whole, it's further indication that she is edging up the rankings as an independent designer with a voice of her own.
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WWD, March 2 - Fashion Scoop - Revival Game
REVIVAL GAME: Sophia Kokosalaki, who showed her latest collection on Wednesday, may have two fashion shows come next season, the second being Madeleine Vionnet. Arnaud de Lummen, Vionnet's chief executive, said the relaunch of the storied French brand is imminent. "We're in the final stages of securing retail partnerships," said De Lummen, adding that around two "exclusive" luxury stores would be selected to carry the collection. The line will be presented either in London, Paris or New York.
REVIVAL GAME: Sophia Kokosalaki, who showed her latest collection on Wednesday, may have two fashion shows come next season, the second being Madeleine Vionnet. Arnaud de Lummen, Vionnet's chief executive, said the relaunch of the storied French brand is imminent. "We're in the final stages of securing retail partnerships," said De Lummen, adding that around two "exclusive" luxury stores would be selected to carry the collection. The line will be presented either in London, Paris or New York.
Whitelinen
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I've liked her past collections before, but this isn't bad. I like some of the golden items.
I can't stand the gold dresses...look really tacky..francesca
about to fall or fly
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i like about 25% of this and the rest i find sort of blah. but the pieces i do like i like a lot.
susie_bubble
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I think she will do beautiful things at Vionnet - one of my highly anticipated designer house revivals.
Ah, ok...I think I know what's bothering me about this collection. This should have been her crowning season because she was one of the first to do "warrior" goddess dresses, sexy but tough and urban, with creative and incredible detail. After years of that damn jewel-encrusted Prada "lady", this current vibe is so very much *hers*. I'm a bit crushed that she's doing something Versace-ish and not something Sophia Kokosolaki-ish. And yes, Vionnet needs to be updated because frankly, the empire waists, the draping and pleats can look really tacky and Texas-ish in the wrong hands. Done right, it might look really modern and amazing, but really, really challenging to pull off. Ok, better not rain anymore on her parade, I do like her. 
