Stella McCartney F/W 2024.25 Paris

If Stella is all about sustainability, was there a need for all those screens?
 
I like it much more than I expected. Love the fluidity and the casting is flawless. Lovely seeing Natalia closing, Yasmin Wilnajdum, Malgosia Bela and Barbara Valente (I think she's slowing down on the runway and focusing on campaigns).
The men's coats are beautiful too.
U just hate all these big shoulders and the Ancora copycat on Angelina Kendall
 
oh my, and i thought the oversize wave is finally over now....

the epiloge was quite on the nose (even Olivia Coleman couldn't save that).
but i like this sweater!
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vogue
 
It’s fine. Pretty mundane and looks like she tapped into some of the Margiela collections from late 2000 with those Lady Gaga The Fame shoulders.

The balaclavas and that mullet gown are an odd place to go to when looking at the rest of this. Not the first collection this season that is completely random. And the faux leather looks nasty. As if it’s going to peel by the third wear.
 
Margiela from 2007/2008 all over the moodboard…
But Stella got her groove back!
This is actually one of my favorite collection of the season (this season is full of surprises).

There’s an energy, a sexiness, an easy that I really like. There are so many pieces I would love to wear. This is the type of glamour that makes me happy…The knitwear is insane, the Margiela shoulder dresses are beyond! I would show up in one of this dress before even thinking about a column sequined dress.

I love how she appropriated those references. It’s full of references but she made it her own.

There are things that could have been edited out like the minidress with the parachute train or the weird thing Angelina Kendall is wearing towards the end.

And I must say that as someone who has bought her fake leather stuff in the past (because it looked good and not out of conviction) and judging by how it has aged badly, I think she should really move on from trying to include any and every innovations related to fake leather. The quality of her clothes is great but when it comes to the leather thing, it’s a disaster…

Maybe she should consider coated canvas more. The same for shoes.

Nevertheless, I know Stella is still a controversial name when it comes to designers and people are quick to dismiss her work or her vision but when I think about the conversation around women designers and see that the name in the forefront of that conversation are MGC and Virginie Viard. And then I think about someone like Gabriela Hearst, when I see Stella, the quality of this collection, the consistency in her aesthetic, I think that she deserves maybe a little bit more consideration.
It’s true that she doesn’t have an esteem name « in fashion » to back-up for her work but I find more value in what she does than elsewhere.

Great collection!
 
It's a great collection, indeed. I just can't stand the stupid shoulders.
 
Maybe she should consider coated canvas more. The same for shoes.
I’ve never understood why she never thought to go down the route of rubberised/coated fabrics, or even interesting oilskins for the clothing. Not only does it look better, but some of those treatments are also very historically British.

Trying to make faux leather look like it’s worth the same as real leather is a difficult task. Plus, she’s not Rei or Watanabe or the like to really push it in that direction either.
 
Yes @Lola701! once again a clear and insightful opinion! totally agree and thank you!

it’s a great collection from Stella!
 
More of the same oversized/huge shoulder pads everyone and your mother is doing (what a lack of imagination!), mixed with some little remnants from her heydays at Chloé.
 
It's very mass marketed, which I appreciate. The white trench is gorgeous and there are plenty of desirable pieces.

But she still belongs in NY Fashion Week.
 

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