Stella McCartney Pre-Fall 2022 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[RaisinBoy]

tragic

 

[Lola701]

Good! This looks more like her!
I can do without the Balenciaga and Celine by Phoebe Philo inspirations but for the most part, good pieces, good styling.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I can do without the Balenciaga and Celine by Phoebe Philo inspirations but for the most part, good pieces, good styling.

Unfortunately that aesthetic has now become mainstream. It may have originally derived from those designers, but the style has become too conventional to be referenced back to specific designers. It's time for someone to shake things up again. Hopefully Phoebe will leave everyone in the dust when she debuts.

 

[perhydrol]

I must say, I'm convinced by this collection, especially in the current landscape of fashion. I still can see Stella snatching all the customers left behind by Chloe because her proposition is much more appealing in terms of being actually fashionable and having a certain attitude.

 

[Lola701]

Unfortunately that aesthetic has now become mainstream. It may have originally derived from those designers, but the style has become too conventional to be referenced back to specific designers. It's time for someone to shake things up again. Hopefully Phoebe will leave everyone in the dust when she debuts.

It makes me think of when Nicolas left Balenciaga and people continued to copy collections from him. When he came back, his silhouette was everywhere up until he decided to go for it!

I have the feeling that only Phoebe can kill her own aesthetic.
But you know there’s a difference when there’s an aesthetic around and very specific copies. The ribbed detail in the blazer is very Celine SS2016, the blue dress is like a colored version of Celine SS2013. The flower is very Balenciaga…You know those small details that somehow kills the credibility of a very credible proposition.

Because those are great clothes. Very on trend and timeless too with a touch of sexiness and lightness. That’s what Stella does best and indeed she can snatch that Chloe customer (Isabel Marant is taking too much time to catch up)!

 

[THD96]

Because those are great clothes. Very on trend and timeless too with a touch of sexiness and lightness. That’s what Stella does best and indeed she can snatch that Chloe customer (Isabel Marant is taking too much time to catch up)!

But what is exactly her brand stand for? Beside the eco-friendly and sustainable stuff, it's been 20 years since her debut and we still really don't know what is her signature. Her first few year was interesting because she show her humor, but since 2016 she basically chasing what trending and have no identity whatsoever. I think her problem is her brand doesn't has an clear identity now, and it's kinda hurt the brand in a way. When we look as these clothes we don't think Stella but Céline and Balenciaga.

Her Chloé tenure is still her best years, it's was recognizable, maybe because Phoebe was there. But I have to say she is more believable in her approach than Posh Spice tho.

 

[Lola701]

But what is exactly her brand stand for? Beside the eco-friendly and sustainable stuff, it's been 20 years since her debut and we still really don't know what is her signature. Her first few year was interesting because she show her humor, but since 2016 she basically chasing what trending and have no identity whatsoever. I think her problem is her brand doesn't has an clear identity now, and it's kinda hurt the brand in a way. When we look as these clothes we don't think Stella but Céline and Balenciaga.

Her Chloé tenure is still her best years, it's was recognizable, maybe because Phoebe was there. But I have to say she is more believable in her approach than Posh Spice tho.

For me, the spirit of her brand has always been very much close to Chloe or Sonia Rykiel. But unfortunately, unlike someone like Isabel Marant, she hasn’t defined A LOOK for her brand or her woman.

I bought her clothes because they were comfortable, livable. I’ve always loved the spirit of her brand and the clothes are great quality. In the HF circuit, I’ve loved the fact that her clothes were never precious. But to be honest the eco-friendly never touched me particularly.

My favorite collections from her are Fall 2008 and Fall 2012. Those collections were really perfect, emphasized on the idea I had of her woman. Personally, I wasn’t a Chloe by Phoebe girl (I only liked when she did the maternity, 60’s dresses), I was never really Isabel Marant girl (I started to really like her stuff when Alt got involved). So, in terms of positioning at the time, her stuff was more grown up than Chloe, more streamlined than Marant, less cliché than Rykiel with really decent prices, a certain idea in terms of casting (James Scully). She really did edgy clothes that were serious buy didn’t take themselves seriously.

But indeed, I feel like she lost herself when Phoebe came back and became the voice of fashion. Let’s be honest, Phoebe influenced everybody…Even the greats like Miuccia or Karl, Nicolas, Riccardo and others because her fashion came with the idea of a lifestyle.

The greats, who were confident and slightly competitive took time to digest and to make something out of it. Some decided to go the opposite direction and others to take some elements and infuse it in their work…

Stella is not a great. So she copied. Sometimes she had good collections, good ideas, strong pieces but I do not think she created a legion of devotee fans. I’m going to be honest, even if I have a lot of clothes from her, I never look forward to shows or clothes. It’s really stuff you can buy when looking around in shops or on sales…

The clothes and the talent are there (even if some are still dismissive of everything she has accomplished). She needs to focus on the branding. We need women who are confident and who have fun. And now that everybody is into sustainability, it can’t be a point to stand out for her.

She can literally snatch the Chloe customer away. It will be difficult in terms of accessories but for the clothes, she has the weapon. I mean, who buys Isabel Marant bags?

 

[tricotineacetat]

For me, the spirit of her brand has always been very much close to Chloe or Sonia Rykiel. But unfortunately, unlike someone like Isabel Marant, she hasn’t defined A LOOK for her brand or her woman.

I bought her clothes because they were comfortable, livable. I’ve always loved the spirit of her brand and the clothes are great quality. In the HF circuit, I’ve loved the fact that her clothes were never precious. But to be honest the eco-friendly never touched me particularly.

My favorite collections from her are Fall 2008 and Fall 2012. Those collections were really perfect, emphasized on the idea I had of her woman. Personally, I wasn’t a Chloe by Phoebe girl (I only liked when she did the maternity, 60’s dresses), I was never really Isabel Marant girl (I started to really like her stuff when Alt got involved). So, in terms of positioning at the time, her stuff was more grown up than Chloe, more streamlined than Marant, less cliché than Rykiel with really decent prices, a certain idea in terms of casting (James Scully). She really did edgy clothes that were serious buy didn’t take themselves seriously.

But indeed, I feel like she lost herself when Phoebe came back and became the voice of fashion. Let’s be honest, Phoebe influenced everybody…Even the greats like Miuccia or Karl, Nicolas, Riccardo and others because her fashion came with the idea of a lifestyle.

The greats, who were confident and slightly competitive took time to digest and to make something out of it. Some decided to go the opposite direction and others to take some elements and infuse it in their work…

Stella is not a great. So she copied. Sometimes she had good collections, good ideas, strong pieces but I do not think she created a legion of devotee fans. I’m going to be honest, even if I have a lot of clothes from her, I never look forward to shows or clothes. It’s really stuff you can buy when looking around in shops or on sales…

The clothes and the talent are there (even if some are still dismissive of everything she has accomplished). She needs to focus on the branding. We need women who are confident and who have fun. And now that everybody is into sustainability, it can’t be a point to stand out for her.

She can literally snatch the Chloe customer away. It will be difficult in terms of accessories but for the clothes, she has the weapon. I mean, who buys Isabel Marant bags?

I think you summed it up really nicely and most likely, her aim never was to be a visionary as her contemporaries at Gucci Group back in the days, like Alexander McQueen or Nicolas Ghesquière. It's not in her mindset to think in a very intellectual way about the cut and construction of clothes but more about the context within which her clothes exist. So in a way she has a very clear lifestyle concept around her brand that revolves around the 'not being complicated' way of thinking about clothes and yet delivering that in a way that makes sustainability aspect of her clothes appear as a second thought, when in fact she probably puts most of her sweat, tears and resources into this aspect of her business!