Tailoring vs. dressmaking / couture

[Crimson C.C]

Exciting thread keep it up

Im making a coat dress so some of this info helped!

 

[gius]

if you have any questions..^

But it was great i learned a lot, there were hmm like probably 20-25 different styles. The fabrics all different from other types of womenswear were the best part. sewing the lining on a sports jacket, not so much.

I would definitely be interested in hearing more about these fabrics from other types of womenswear...

 

[daniellat]

(you are in quarantine, aren't you.. no choice sort of..)

im going crazy, seriously

I would definitely be interested in hearing more about these fabrics from other types of womenswear...

well before tailoring i never used fabrics with that kind of structure. i worked with chiffon and satin and that sort of fabrics but once i started the tailoring course i worked with wool in different finishings, better quality cotton, tweed, heavyweight satin and probably the most different was working with leather, leatherette and patent. but all this fabrics except cotton holds the shape better so i didnt need to put much attention to the facings, only on collars and parts where i didnt want to loose the form due to being worn like near the buttonholes and the lower back area, since us women tend to pull it down very regularly

 

[daniellat]

right now i want to make a satin trench coat so bad. so i may need better quality facings and whatnot to make my trench coat wearable and durable, but i must finish the balmain jacket before that, as soon as this flue thing is over im flying to the fabric shop.

the shape i have in mind for the trench coat is this one from jessica simpson, (pricegrabber.com)

i love the shape and the color, it has a traditional flair but i love the not so traditional collar. its cheap like 80 dlls or something, ill probably spend more on trying to copy it, plus i want it longer but i wanted to make a trench coat for a while.

i was told once that the best way to improve your finishings when sewing and such is to visit high end stores and really put attention on these details in premium designer clothing, go to the changing room and try on and observe and compare different styles or finishings, and most important, take pictures. i did it when doing bridal gowns and now ill do it again for this trench, i may bring pictures to show you =)

 

[gius]

that would be nice to see.. ^^ I often hear Marni plays a lot of attention to the insides of the garment, the finishings. I've never seen it in person though. I'm not much of a shopper sadly..and I think I've grown a bit agoraphobic lately..
it would be interesting if you could find some high-end also having handwork in the garments because I have read about designers who do a mix of mass production techniques and couture techniques. Maybe Ralph Rucci? I don't remember where I read this info...

 

[Fuuma]

I remember Raf Simons saying about Jil Sander FW08-09 that he gave the dresses to the tailors to make, and the suits to the dressmakers. One of my favourite collections ever!

If you want to learn anything about bespoke menswear theres a fantastic blog at www.englishcut.com

The guy who writes it is a tailor on Saville Row, a lot of the entries concern the business but there are also some interesting ones about construction of a men's suit and the making of it. Traditionally its done in several stages by different people (a cutter, a tailor...) who only specialise in that one area. I guess it might work the same in couture for womenswear.

I was reading about 'bespoke' recently, but Im more interested in the techniques behind standard sizing in ready-to-wear, and how to achieve the effect of a well fitting garment on different body types, even if the fit is not perfect. If anyone can recommend any reading or knows anything about manufacture at that level...
I'de be interested to know the difference in standard sizing between high-end ready-to-wear manufacture and high-street... How does a brand like Lanvin for example establish their standard sizing?
Maybe thats for a different thread!

Lanvin, like every other brand out there does not make clothes. Ma.Co makes the suit and sportscoats for Lanvin (men). Note that Lanvin also operates a traditional bespoke outfit but this has nothing to do with the runway shows.