The Journey from Fashion Show to Retail

[nationalsalt]

After many years of fashion documentaries, which all seem to cover the build up to the show and the climax of the designer's bow, I've always been curious about what happens in the weeks and months after in order to get the collection into stores.

For example -

- If designers are making adjustments to garments up until the moment they go on the runway, how and when do they liaise with the merchandising team to decide prices, adjustments for retail etc. to decide what to sell to buyers? Or are the merchandising team working silently alongside the collection's development to work these things out as they go?

- If a manufacturer's price is determined by how many items they'll be producing for a designer (i.e. discounts for higher quantities), how do designers determine how much to sell them for before buyers have placed their orders?

- How soon after a designer's show do they usually meet with buyers?

- Do buyers usually place their orders on the spot, or do they wait until they've done all the shows to allocate their budget accordingly?

- Do buyers tend to pay up front for their orders, or upon delivery? Or put a partial deposit down?

- What is the average timespan between a fashion show and the collection arriving in stores?

Thanks in advance for any answers and insights!

 

[runner]

- If designers are making adjustments to garments up until the moment they go on the runway, how and when do they liaise with the merchandising team to decide prices, adjustments for retail etc. to decide what to sell to buyers? Or are the merchandising team working silently alongside the collection's development to work these things out as they go?

the pieces shown on the runway can be piece-unique's. for example their sizing is different from production sizing. they are for pro models. like vertically M-sized albeit horizontally S-sized, etc.
it's true designers and staff members can be fine-tuning the details until just before models get on the runway. they want to take everything into consideration, the atmosphere, lighting of the venue, distance with the audience, etc. they even spray-paint. but the samples already waiting at that point at the showroom don't undergo any change. the prices are already set and indicated on each piece's paper where you also see its draft, available sizes, colors etc.
and of course samples and production can be different. then they can tell buyers about that. if shops don't like production pieces that have arrived, they can return them.

basically speaking though.
more later

 

[runner]

^ too sketchy, sorry
it depends on brand's nature, scale etc.
there can be brands whose showrooms are almost empty when they are having shows.
on the other hand, for brands (such as CdG), showroom and show exist like parallel universes.
in any case "adjustments" at the last minute are hardly reflected in prices.

if shops don't like production pieces that have arrived, they can return them.

only if what have arrived look too different. if you return new arrivals while they delivered exactly what you wanted, you will be scolded. legally.

 

[runner]

- If a manufacturer's price is determined by how many items they'll be producing for a designer (i.e. discounts for higher quantities), how do designers determine how much to sell them for before buyers have placed their orders?

for companies like uniqlo, there should be severe relation between quantity and pricing.
but in other world where making something very special is the prime definition of your company, quantity doesn't go well with quality. you have to give up on quantity in the first place. then higher pricing can be justified. if quantity is easy or made possible, what you make may not be so special any more. and if that business keeps on going, that brand can be a bit like charlatan. (fashion may be full of charlatans.) if you are actually making very special things, quantity should simply be impossible. you can't make that much. the forced quantity would end up with delivery delay, quality degradation etc.
so the limits could be determined by itself. be it that of fabric, manufacture, shop (who offers very special service).
that said, it's a gamble within the limits though.
it's RTW. you do have to preapare various things (buying materials etc) when there is no guarantee that your pieces will sell.

 

[runner]

- How soon after a designer's show do they usually meet with buyers?

modemonline can give you an overview.

 

[runner]

- Do buyers usually place their orders on the spot, or do they wait until they've done all the shows to allocate their budget accordingly?

they don't have to decide everything there. basically. they can make the final decision at their shops, after returning. they can contemplate along with staff members.

 

[runner]

- Do buyers tend to pay up front for their orders, or upon delivery? Or put a partial deposit down?

usually partial deposit

 

[runner]

- What is the average timespan between a fashion show and the collection arriving in stores?

depends on each piece. at the showroom you can usually know when it is supposed to arrive.
if it's FW collection. for example, the first delivery in early july, the second, and the third, etc. the final one usually in early november.
about which delivery it belongs on.

 

[MetroMelannie]

After many years of fashion documentaries, which all seem to cover the build up to the show and the climax of the designer's bow, I've always been curious about what happens in the weeks and months after in order to get the collection into stores.

For example -

- If designers are making adjustments to garments up until the moment they go on the runway, how and when do they liaise with the merchandising team to decide prices, adjustments for retail etc. to decide what to sell to buyers? Or are the merchandising team working silently alongside the collection's development to work these things out as they go?

- If a manufacturer's price is determined by how many items they'll be producing for a designer (i.e. discounts for higher quantities), how do designers determine how much to sell them for before buyers have placed their orders?

- How soon after a designer's show do they usually meet with buyers?

- Do buyers usually place their orders on the spot, or do they wait until they've done all the shows to allocate their budget accordingly?

- Do buyers tend to pay up front for their orders, or upon delivery? Or put a partial deposit down?

- What is the average timespan between a fashion show and the collection arriving in stores?

Thanks in advance for any answers and insights!

Hi !
I can answer to a few points from the inside. Usually what goes on the runway is less than 15% of total sales for most brands. Runway shows are more a brand image exercise than a commercial exercise with the exception of highly commercial brands in NY for example and now younger brands like Jacquemus, AMI, Casablanca who design with stores in mind.

Otherwise we do commercial adaptation of what goes on runway.
Once the show happens the market opens for few days for retail and wholesale buyers place their quantities. At the same time some design change can happen to which Design/Merch and Planners will be much reactive. Same goes for products who gets cancelled. Once quantities are placed, brands need to confirm they are satisfied with the overall buy - in terms of quantities and also quality of products before it gets CEO approved. After what the buy is completed and transactions happens. Same goes for Wholesale buyers.

Most of the time we cannot hold the buy too long as all quantities needs to be confirmed to sourcing and sourcing partners. (we can do a pre-buy especially for commercial collections like pre-fall/resort but this is tricky exercise)

The prod to stores process might take up to 5-6 months usually and depending on houses business model. This is why you will see SS Runway in September, Campaign and collection of that season around January/February in most cases.

 

[runner]

if you are interested, this week is like SS2025 showrooms week for tokyo,
at upstairs floors of the flagships of CdG, YY, etc.
three or four weeks after day one of their showrooms in paris. (I guess, by way of NY etc??)
even if you already visited them, you can check again at this moment.

btw, as long as it is comme or yohji at least, you can usually order even after the start of the season.
for example, some item from FW that was delivered in early july that did sell like crazy can be ordered again when you are okay with its delivery done in late november or early december.