Thom Browne Menswear

[kit]

Interesting snippet here :-

http://www.guardian.co.uk/weekend/story/0,,1429496,00.html

Does anyone have any info on this designer - tailor - couturier for men ?

 

[kit]

Since Raijin has posted a thread on Spencer Hart , I wonder if anyone noticed this post of 3 days ago about his American equivalent ?


Just asking .

 

[Johnny]

Kit

No info as such but I saw some of his stuff in Collette last week. It's interesting - I've never heard of him before but his clothes sort of leapt off the rail. They are uber-quality, you can tell just by looking at them. The finishing is incredible. I saw a suit and a short coat. Theey were both amazing. It's seriously expensive so never thought about buying it. It's an interesting contrast to the post apocalyptic chic of CCp and CD etc. It's very formal but also really modern.

 

[kit]

Kit

No info as such but I saw some of his stuff in Collette last week. It's interesting - I've never heard of him before but his clothes sort of leapt off the rail. They are uber-quality, you can tell just by looking at them. The finishing is incredible. I saw a suit and a short coat. Theey were both amazing. It's seriously expensive so never thought about buying it. It's an interesting contrast to the post apocalyptic chic of CCp and CD etc. It's very formal but also really modern.

Thanks Johnny

Maybe someone will have more to contribute .

 

[Johnny]

Thanks Johnny

Maybe someone will have more to contribute .

Is someone p88sing you off Kit?

 

[kit]

Is someone p88sing you off Kit?

Actually not , Johnny

It's just that TFS members go on ad infinitum about CCP , Carpe Diem , Dior homme etc , and someone as interesting as Thom Browne gets neglected .

Hey ho , that's the way of the world .............

PS

It's Thom Browne , my misspelling originally . Mea culpa .

 

[helena]

you are right Kit.....

 

[Johnny]

Yip I also agree Kit. I've got nothing against those designers that you mention, and admire CCP in particular from what I've seen, but there is more to life ....In addition, something that lightly irks with me is how they are held up as nadirs of quality and craftsmanship etc. There's something to be said for people like Spencer Hart, Browne, Lobb, and others who make beautiful superbly made clothes and shoes and who don't then f**k them up by burying them in a desert for 12 years. What's interesting is how the quality thing becomes such an important issue to the extent that it appears that these guys are inventing the concept. Not true. If you want quality, go to Saville Row - it's always been there and it simply can't be beaten. I'm not saying that you shouldn't look at new ways of bringing these qualities forward, it's just that we shouldn't forget the oldies. They are the best, as they say...

 

[kit]

Yip I also agree Kit. I've got nothing against those designers that you mention, and admire CCP in particular from what I've seen, but there is more to life ....In addition, something that lightly irks with me is how they are held up as nadirs of quality and craftsmanship etc. There's something to be said for people like Spencer Hart, Browne, Lobb, and others who make beautiful superbly made clothes and shoes and who don't then f**k them up by burying them in a desert for 12 years. What's interesting is how the quality thing becomes such an important issue to the extent that it appears that these guys are inventing the concept. Not true. If you want quality, go to Saville Row - it's always been there and it simply can't be beaten. I'm not saying that you shouldn't look at new ways of bringing these qualities forward, it's just that we shouldn't forget the oldies. They are the best, as they say...

Agreed absolutely

See my posts in the Savile Row thread .B)

BTW , I think you mean ' zenith ' - the highest point , NOT ' nadir ' , which means the LOWEST point .

It's the English teacher coming out in me !!!

 

[Johnny]

BTW , I think you mean ' zenith ' - the highest point , NOT ' nadir ' , which means the LOWEST point .

It's the English teacher coming out in me !!!

Me dumb-***. I'm ashamed!

 

[birdofparadise]

It also may be a point, simply, of a lack of information about designers like these. I first came across Thom through a television interview he gave in which he specifically shunned the flashy, publicity side of fashion. I only came across his again in January's issue of GQ. They've photographed a cotton oxford of his that looks incredible.

And now some important info: Available in NYC at Bergdorf, Jeffrey, in LA at Ron Herman and his namesake store in NY (212) 633-1197

*From Newsweek's 'Who's Next in 2005 Issue*

Dec. 27 / Jan. 3 issue - Thom Browne, 39, the ultracool menswear designer, was talking about how much he's inspired by movies—Sean Connery as James Bond, say, or Steve McQueen in "The Thomas Crown Affair." But the moment he really treasures is when Edward Fox takes off his suit jacket in "The Day of the Jackal": "the waist of his trousers is up to here!" There's a dash of the chic geek in Browne's custom-tailored, perfectly detailed clothing. Just take a look at what Browne's wearing today: slim gray flannel trousers that stop several inches above sockless ankles; an unironed white oxford-cloth button-down shirt; a skinny gray tie, and a cashmere cardigan with varsity stripes on the sleeve. In an era when admen dress like bikers and rappers dress like bankers, Browne's look is classic—with a twist. "My clothing is not retro at all. But it's inspired by a true American sensibility of the '50s and early '60s."
Browne grew up in a family of seven kids in Allentown, Pa. "We all had our navy flannels and gray slacks for winter, and navy jackets and khaki trousers for summer," he says. After trying to make it as an actor in L.A., Browne switched to fashion and eventually became a designer for Club Monaco. But he could never find the jackets and trousers he wanted to wear. Working with the tailor who sewed samples for Club Monaco, he made five suits for himself. "I wore them when I went out," he says, "and people began to ask me where I got them." That was in 2001, and he started his bespoke business in a studio in Manhattan's trendy meatpacking district.
To me, the fashion is about the quality and the fit," says Browne. And about the beautiful details you notice only up close—such as the buttons on the sleeves that really button. It's also about wit—he's made an impeccable dinner jacket out of white cotton canvas and lined it with white football-jersey mesh. Now his hand-tailored clothing is sold in a few high-end shops. It's aimed at men whose only fat is in their wallets: Browne's suits aren't sized above 42 and they cost about $2,200. But men are dressing up again, and Browne wants guys to "feel like they can put these clothes on as easily as jeans and a T shirt." It's antifashion fashion, designed to look good and wear well over time—like those navy blazers of his boyhood. How will Browne adapt his handmade esthetic to the demands of a wider market? "I'm not going to compromise the quality," he says. "Maybe I'll have to say no more than yes."

*He's obviously the one in the suit. Hubba Hubba.

 

[birdofparadise]

It's perhaps just that the main womenswear mags don't think he's cool enough...or something.

 

[Johnny]

Thanks for the article BoP.

 

[faust]

Thanks for the topic, Kit .

The trouble with me, for example, is that I can't identify with such houses. I can respect them for what they do - for the quality and workmanship that goes into the process - I just hate anything that reminds me of businesswear. Like any clothes with me, there is an underlying philosophical concept, apparent or not. A certain view of the world. And in my view, Wall street must burn (even though... oh wait, partially because, I'm a part of it - an unwilling one, but still a part). So, when I handle my newly acquired hand-made Brioni tie - I like and respect it as a garment - but I want to burn it thinking about the next a$$hole I'll have to deal with in my line of work in a handmade Brioni tie.

 

[helena]

Faust - I see where you are coming from completely. we all have our baggage when it comes to clothes don't we? Its a shame really isn't it....

 

[faust]

Faust - I see where you are coming from completely. we all have our baggage when it comes to clothes don't we? Its a shame really isn't it....

Thank you for understanding. I don't consider it baggage, though . It's more of a stand rather than a complex. I must add, that I suspend all judgements (since they are generalities) when I meet someone new on a personal level - which I think is the only way to get to know someone. It doesn't help of course when the person, after you get to know them, fits the stereotype .

 

[helena]

yes stands are good i have lots of them! Maybe some complexes too! LOL

yes stereotypes are gained somehow!

 

[faust]

yes stands are good i have lots of them! Maybe some complexes too! LOL

yes stereotypes are gained somehow!

sorry for uberfast typing . I meant "standards" and "insecurities" "Complex" is a Russian word for "insecurity", and I sometimes inadvertently mix it.

 

[kit]

Many thanks for the info , birdofparadise

It's just what I was looking for . B)

I understand where you're coming from , faust , it's just that some , especially in the ultra-conservative UK , establishment-wise , have no choice but to dress the part , whether in the CITY ( the London finance world ) for instance , and also in their leisure time , at the golf club etc . Hence the stereotypical bowler-hatted englishman - except he no longer wears a hat , but a loudly striped shirt , a Brioni or Hermes tie ,and a fancy faux-Savile Row suit , by Richard James .

 

[AlexN]

Kit, no offense, but there wasn't really a whole lot to reply to or discuss. For me (and I'm guessing others may be the same way), I don't really like saying anything about clothes I've never seen before. Additionally, this came across to me as more of an information-gathering post. I have no information about the guy, and apparently neither does the majority of the people here. It's not simply about playing favorites and ignoring your topic. Also, like Faust, businesswear just does not appeal to me. I hope you understand.