Tom Ford - Designer

[DK92]

Regardless of who acquires Tom Ford, I hope he doesn't leave the creative direction of the brand!

 

[Lola701]

^^
I don’t know if the decision to sell has anything to do with the loss of his husband but it’s definitely a possibility. I mean we know he has another passion…

I’ve always believed that Tom would have worked perfectly on the Alaia model (presenting when he wants) but was obliged to deliver because his company was doing good.

I can see Tom doing a Gaultier or a Mugler and leave fashion for Cinema. Maybe he will stay some years but I don’t expect him to stay at the helm of the brand forever…

Yeah, but almost every brand is churning out overpriced hoodies and ugly sneakers right now. SL and BV have, for the most part, stayed out of that trend story. I'm not so quick to attribute it to a Kering-wide strategy.

But, the compromises made to the overall quality at Balenciaga and Gucci are concerning. I think that's a direct result of Pinault's demand for higher and higher margins. To be honest, I haven't really inspected BV's RTW in a while although the last time I did it seemed fine (I was admittedly distracted by its heaviness and gaudiness).

To me, Estee Lauder would be the worst case scenario. Fashion brands run by companies with no expertise or experience running fashion brands almost NEVER work out.

I would definitely expect Kering to phase out out their Zegna license and take the menswear in-house which is probably what Tom wants. They can also leverage their size and scale to help grow the brand's non-beauty business in way that wasn't possible for TM before and in a way EL never could.

I expect they'll leave the beauty business as it is. The opportunity for Kering is in everything else.

Among which is EYEWEAR.

Kering is one of the few conglomerates that does not license out its eyewear and in fact has its own company, Kering Eyewear, to make it for all their brands. Without a doubt they would phase out Marcolin Group. This would be a huge boon to the eyewear business.

There's a lot of benefits to the Kering deal for both sides.

Tbh all your arguments are valid. It makes totally sense but I think my fear comes really from a customer POV and also someone who have watched Tom evolve in that landscape.

Tom being owned by KERING means a total revamp of the house. It will be a major change. In general, those types of things are kind of good when brands aren’t really big…

I have little trust in the quality of KERING products in all categories. And one thing about Tom Ford is that the standards of quality are exquisite even if the simple silk jersey T-shirts.
In menswear, it means Brioni will certainly handle the production too.

In terms of fashion tbh, KERING will be a good partner because the brand will be more present, the marketing will probably be super agressive and it will have corners everywhere and more stores will open.

But with Gucci not performing as well as it did, I wonder if buying another brand will be a priority of KERING. All their brands are doing good now but the cash-cow is showing signs of fatigue. Tom Ford is probably bigger than McQueen but the offer is very different from all the brands all around.

But more than Money, it will be a matter of who can protect his interests. He knows both Pinault and the Lauder so…

 

[kasper!]

There is another conflift: Tom Ford eyewear license by Marcolin and Kering Eyewear department....If at last they get Tom Ford, a nasty break up with Marcolin is inevitable.

 

[THD96]

Estée Lauder nears $2.8bn deal to buy Tom Ford
Cosmetics group in exclusive talks after beating rival bidder Kering

James Fontanella-Khan and Ortenca Aliaj in New York and Arash Massoudi and Lauren Indvik in London NOVEMBER 12 2022
19.

Estée Lauder is nearing a deal to buy Tom Ford for about $2.8bn, including debt, beating out competition from a number of others interested in acquiring the luxury fashion brand, said people briefed about the matter.

Tom Ford has this week entered exclusive negotiations with Estée Lauder, which sells cosmetic brands such as MAC, Clinique and Aveda, and a deal could be announced as early as Monday, those people said.

A deal between the two brands would highlight the strength of a luxury fashion and cosmetics market that has continued to be resilient in the face of rising inflation and supply chain disruptions.


For New York-based Estée Lauder the acquisition of Tom Ford would be its biggest and latest in a series of transactions, including taking full control of Canadian beauty group Deciem for about $1bn in 2021.

Goldman Sachs was hired to explore a sale of Tom Ford earlier this year and has received interest from other luxury brands including Gucci owner Kering. Estée Lauder already has a longstanding licensing agreement for Tom Ford’s beauty and fragrance products, which could have complicated a deal with Kering.

As part of the combination with Tom Ford, which was launched by the eponymous fashion designer in 2005, Estée Lauder would also acquire the apparel business, an area that it has relatively little experience in.

Tom Ford’s beauty line has done particularly well in China, a growth market for both groups. It has also a fairly lucrative eyewear business through licensing deals with sunglass manufacturer Marcolin.

LexCie Financiere Richemont SA
Luxury/Richemont: Cartier owner shines despite the gloomy outlook Premium content
The Wall Street Journal reported last week that Kering was in advanced discussions to buy Tom Ford for about $3bn, placing itself ahead of Estée Lauder. However, the talks with the Gucci owner fell apart as the two sides struggled to reach an agreement on a number of fronts, said people briefed about the matter.

Tom Ford is renowned for turning Gucci in the 1990s from a staid, family-owned leather business into a fashion powerhouse and the foundation for what is now Kering. He left Gucci in 2005 to launch Tom Ford together with Domenico De Sole, who he had hired at Gucci in 1994.


While Tom Ford has been successful, the business struggled during the coronavirus pandemic and the company was forced to lay off and furlough staff.

Source: Financial Times.

I think we'll have the official confirmation next week.

 

[JohannesL]

Smart move for EL to unify TF's fashion and beauty business. Whether EL want to sell the whole TF brand one day or develope the brand on its own, it has lots of potential.

 

[Lola701]

Source: Financial Times.

I think we'll have the official confirmation next week.

Fabulous news. Now I think they will build the structure to have a proper fashion operation…After all, Tom did build the Gucci Group and there are talented people around.

This is a good news for the beauty business as the fragrances and all won’t suffer from the inherent changes that happens in this type of situation.

They have the possibility to really create something great. Now they needs a whole and ambition revamp of the Tom Ford fashion and distribution. Their website cannot be selling only to the US and UK anymore and a real strategy needs to build for the accessories.

Hopefully, the quality of the collections will follow but that’s up to Tom. I guess the licences agreement will be renewed.

Kudos to Tom and Dom for creating such a strong brand in that amount of time… And I guess congratulations for being richer.

 

[velvetandsilk]

Hopefully, the quality of the collections will follow but that’s up to Tom. I guess the licences agreement will be renewed.

I'd like to see someone young and talented take the best of Tom's style and deliver a lot of beautiful collections. I know I'm naive.

 

[Lola701]

I'd like to see someone young and talented take the best of Tom's style and deliver a lot of beautiful collections. I know I'm naive.

Tbh the only designer that I can see doing Tom Ford today is Alexandre Vauthier. It’s almost cliché…Or maybe someone unknown coming from different type of school.

As much as I can be critical of Tom, like Hedi, nobody does things like him. The house will need someone who understand glamour and who is not afraid of bad taste but who is also technically skilled. So that eliminates every American designer showing at FW right now.

But I want Tom to continue to design maybe for 5/7 years again.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ …Alexandre would be a potentially brand-changing candidate for Tom Ford womenswear. (And Tom Ford Haute Couture…???) He would need to push himself beyond strong looks and further into strong separates. Tom at his Gucci/YSL best always offered not just gorgeous collections— but even more gorgeous separates that take on an extremely versatile life of their own. However, I cringe to think of Alexandre’s take on menswear LOL TF menswear is just fine the way they are.Tom Ford is the only brand I’ve purchased new and retail these last 5 years— and it’s only because the designs are no-nonsense, timeless, well-made clothing that I will wear until they fall apart or, until I’m dead. Just a different approach to its branding and imaging and it would improve by leaps and bounds. And keep Carine far far far away from Tom Ford. A rebranding of the Tom Ford RTW image would be a logical strategy to infuse some life back, just that I can’t be bothered to summon the slightest excitement, not even for Tom. Tom Ford RTW has passed into luxury and lifestyle now, and hopefully EL knows not to mess with its current status because Tom’s glorious Gucci and YSL are never returning. I’d rather he invest all his creativity in another great film.

Frankly, I’m more indifferent than excited for all this. Every brand I once adored is now a Michael Kors to some degree. And I couldn’t care less at this point if they all faded away. Let the new phoenixes arise from the dumpster fire ashes of this era.

 

[LadyJunon]

Every brand I once adored is now a Michael Kors to some degree. And I couldn’t care less at this point if they all faded away. Let the new phoenixes arise from the dumpster fire ashes of this era.

In this sh*tty fashion climate, I don't think we'll be getting any phoenixes until the 30s.

 

[Lola701]

^^^ …Alexandre would be a potentially brand-changing candidate for Tom Ford womenswear. (And Tom Ford Haute Couture…???) He would need to push himself beyond strong looks and further into strong separates. Tom at his Gucci/YSL best always offered not just gorgeous collections— but even more gorgeous separates that take on an extremely versatile life of their own. However, I cringe to think of Alexandre’s take on menswear LOL TF menswear is just fine the way they are.Tom Ford is the only brand I’ve purchased new and retail these last 5 years— and it’s only because the designs are no-nonsense, timeless, well-made clothing that I will wear until they fall apart or, until I’m dead. Just a different approach to its branding and imaging and it would improve by leaps and bounds. And keep Carine far far far away from Tom Ford. A rebranding of the Tom Ford RTW image would be a logical strategy to infuse some life back, just that I can’t be bothered to summon the slightest excitement, not even for Tom. Tom Ford RTW has passed into luxury and lifestyle now, and hopefully EL knows not to mess with its current status because Tom’s glorious Gucci and YSL are never returning. I’d rather he invest all his creativity in another great film.

Frankly, I’m more indifferent than excited for all this. Every brand I once adored is now a Michael Kors to some degree. And I couldn’t care less at this point if they all faded away. Let the new phoenixes arise from the dumpster fire ashes of this era.

Not Haute Couture…Surely not. I believe in keeping the essence of a brand and Tom Ford might be a luxury house, it hasn’t the cachet of a Couture House. And when you have such a strong beauty business, it’s ridiculous to do that if it doesn’t have a purpose…

Vauthier was supposed to work for YSL under Tom so in a way it would be a great thing for him to work for that kind of house…Big but with a « decent size ».
I know Tom doesn’t believe in having multiple voices at the head but I think believe Peter Hawkings can continue to do the menswear and Alexandre focus on the womenswear.

Yes no more Carine as a stylist. Maybe spécial projects and campaigns but not shows! We saw with the Spring 2023 collection that thanks to the strong DNA of the brand, the sensationalist styling of Carine in the menswear look couldn’t overshadow the classic nature of the offering that we could see in the lookbook.

Being owned by EL means business as usual but also a lot more possibilities. I wonder if Tom will play the game of the big brands or continue to have a rational expansion /exposure.

Personally, I’m not holding on to the Gucci/YSL days. It doesn’t interest me in a way…I can watch the shows and enjoy the pieces I have in my wardrobe. I think the brand Tom Ford has the potential to be great on it own…
I always use his name but I loved Alaia for what it was. Yes it was repetitive sometimes and the collections didn’t have the sex appeal of his 80’s work but the clothes were still fabulous. Everybody can say that his heydays were in the 80’s and 90’s but he delivered some of his best collections in the 00’s. I think Tom can achieve that level.

He has already indulged with commercialism With the underwear and printed silk sets. But so far he hasn’t done a collab with Stussy or Gap. Hopefully his snobbery and his ego will prevent him from doing those kind of things…

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's confirmed, Estee Lauder bought it.

 

[THD96]

Not Haute Couture…Surely not. I believe in keeping the essence of a brand and Tom Ford might be a luxury house, it hasn’t the cachet of a Couture House. And when you have such a strong beauty business, it’s ridiculous to do that if it doesn’t have a purpose…

Vauthier was supposed to work for YSL under Tom so in a way it would be a great thing for him to work for that kind of house…Big but with a « decent size ».
I know Tom doesn’t believe in having multiple voices at the head but I think believe Peter Hawkings can continue to do the menswear and Alexandre focus on the womenswear.

Yes no more Carine as a stylist. Maybe spécial projects and campaigns but not shows! We saw with the Spring 2023 collection that thanks to the strong DNA of the brand, the sensationalist styling of Carine in the menswear look couldn’t overshadow the classic nature of the offering that we could see in the lookbook.

Being owned by EL means business as usual but also a lot more possibilities. I wonder if Tom will play the game of the big brands or continue to have a rational expansion /exposure.

Personally, I’m not holding on to the Gucci/YSL days. It doesn’t interest me in a way…I can watch the shows and enjoy the pieces I have in my wardrobe. I think the brand Tom Ford has the potential to be great on it own…
I always use his name but I loved Alaia for what it was. Yes it was repetitive sometimes and the collections didn’t have the sex appeal of his 80’s work but the clothes were still fabulous. Everybody can say that his heydays were in the 80’s and 90’s but he delivered some of his best collections in the 00’s. I think Tom can achieve that level.

He has already indulged with commercialism With the underwear and printed silk sets. But so far he hasn’t done a collab with Stussy or Gap. Hopefully his snobbery and his ego will prevent him from doing those kind of things…

Yes, there is no point in doing HC if it's only for the red carpet. I feel like the American spirit doesn't fit couture. Just because it is luxury doesn't mean it has to be couture.

Another candidate is Clare Waight Keller. She worked under Tom and based on her resume I'm sure that understands American fashion well.
With a good head designer, I know she can deliver in menswear. She was the menswear designer for Ralph Lauren after all.
Until she is employed I'm going to be Clare for everything.

Yes, no more Carine, I love her, but she has nothing new to offer the brand. Let's go wild, I MAS for TF. I'm ready for TF women walking around with 1000 different layers .
Serious talk, Anastasia Barbieri would be a dream.

As long as Tom is still there I think the brand will be okay. What I'm afraid of is when he left. Do EL stills care about keeping the brand legacy? We saw that conglomerate rarely cares about the founder's integrity.

 

[LadyJunon]

To precise what's happening with the Tom Ford company:
Estée Lauder has acquired the whole business entity and its intellectual property, but they'll only be handling the beauty and fragrance parts of the business. Zegna (who also owns Thom Browne) has acquired the licensing of the fashion and accessories side, while Marcolin (who also does eyewear licenses for Bally, Max Mara, Pucci, Tod's and Zegna) will continue their eyewear license.

Estée Lauder claims that they'll be working closely together to retain aesthetical consistency, but I'll believe it when I see it.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Some quick facts about the acquisition

- EL outbid Kering with a 2.3 billion dollar bid.

- Their licensing agreement with Zegna has been extended for the long-term and expanded to include ALL RTW, not just men's. Zegna is essentially in control of TF as a fashion brand now.

- Their licensing deal with Marcolin group has been extended for the long term.

- Tom Ford will stay on as creative director until the end of 2023.

 

[ThatDudeOverTher]

I'm gonna throw a totally left field ball here and float that Frida Giannini would be a great creative director for TF. She understand old school glamour, isn't afraid of bad taste, and really understands accessories, which is the hallmark of the brand. Under Kering it would not have worked, but with EL and Zegna, this could be an incredible opportunity to return to glamorous fashion.

 

[caioherrero]

So Tom Ford is leaving.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Very glad he’s bowing out gracefully. It’s been evident for a while now e has nothing left to contribute to a strong design vision— nor does he show interest in fashion anymore. Hopefully his filmmaking will now get his full devotion.

Alexandre for the womenswear, and Haider for the menswear. Keep the TF vision alive and of the highest standards.

 

[Lola701]

So many news in one press release…
Good for Tom Ford the man and Tom Ford the brand. In a way having each licencee being totally in control of their part is not bad in terms of consistency, quality of product and the whole thing.
At least with Zegna, we can be sure we won’t have a Supreme/Stussy collab.

I’m a bit concerned regarding Tom’s future tho. I wonder how much of it was motivated by the loss of his husband and if being at the creative helm until the end of 2023 means that he will totally be out of the company…

I can see him being involved like Mugler was with his brand. With a brand so strong in aesthetic and with it aesthetic being so linked to the living founder, it’s not easy…
We will definitely learn more in the next weeks/months.

I’m definitely for Alexandre Vauthier doing the womenswear, Peter Hawkings doing the menswear under the supervision of Tom Ford that will handle the beauty and marketing at first to smooth the transition. He will be like DVF in a way…

As much as I like a one voice brand, there are examples that proved that it can work without hurting the brand.

I’m excited for whatever Tom has in mind…Directing, being a photographer…as long as he is not doing a « Helmut Lang ».

 

[Deleted member 7575]

At least with Zegna, we can be sure we won’t have a Supreme/Stussy collab.

I’m a bit concerned regarding Tom’s future tho. I wonder how much of it was motivated by the loss of his husband and if being at the creative helm until the end of 2023 means that he will totally be out of the company…

I wouldn't be sure. Zegna DID do a Fear of God collaboration.

Also, I think Tom's future will be just fine as he's about 1 billion dollars richer.