Once upon a time when the new Season’s campaigns debuting in their unleashed glory with the September issues were as strong, supreme and sublime as— if not over exceeded, that issue’s fashion stories. Then came that day when the fashion stories weren’t so strong/supreme/sublime— but the campaigns gave those weaker stories the much needed heavylifting that still made a September issue worth its hype. Nowadays, the campaigns are competing to be as lifeless, forgettable and pedestrian as the few measly/meek/meandering fashion stories that define a September issue in 2023. It’s that pathetic— to see a Prada/Miu Miu/Fendi ad that looks like product shots. Not a whiff of mood, attitude, POV; just merch like a midrange deaprtment-store’s weekly flyer.
If a gun were held to my head and I had to say something positive of this issue; there’s a decent story/advertorial of various brands, each getting a single page/spread promo (which ELLE had done so well with a cast of models in the past) with just one lone model, Lili Sumner this time, in that sort of story that Carter Smith excels at: The Office. That’s the only story with a consistent sense of mood where the styling suits the story. That’s it. The other desktop-publishing stories shot by newcomers resemble fashion students casting and playing dressup with their friends-- and not a one looking like a model. Why pay for such pedestrian efforts when it’s all free on SM?
(…And in a perfect fashion world, if “quiet luxury” is used one more time by these sheep writers, then heads need to roll.)