The word “punk” is often used to describe Jun Takahashi’s collections for Undercover, albeit of the polite Japanese variety. And last night the designer was at his most rebellious as he presented his spring 2010 men’s collection at Pitti Uomo in Florence. Titled Less But Better, and inspired by legendary industrial designer Dieter Rams, the show was a surreal affair, with models snaking through Boboli Gardens in stark, pared-down clothing, giant backpacks and visor shades that put a futuristic twist on the all-gray, minimalist looks. The eerie vibes continued at the after-show performance, where, accompanied by a Japanese noise band, Takahashi took to making his “Grace” dolls. The contorted, freakish toys make Chucky look like your boy next door.
—Kasia Bobula