Valentino Haute Couture S/S 2020 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

I only like the second look. Even though is nothing out of the ordinary I love the clean effect, the colour palette and the fabrics. I wish the rest of the collection was like that look (I hate the prints and the Rabanne inspired pieces).

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^That was my favorite look, too...and the only one that stands out.

Hannah Elyse certainly plays her part in making it look as good as it does.

 

[mistress_f]

ok, some looks are wonky, others are downright atrocious and have too much going on (not to mention those earrings...) but i overall really like it, i actually love the first half, the bold colors, the daywear looks and the simpler gowns... it's way too much and needed to be edited, but there's a lot to like.

 

[mikel]

Quite a lot this reminds me of Viktor & Rolf.

 

[Vitamine W]

Honesty loved the glamour prom couture in the second half. Just glad we got spared 30+ billowy gowns. Pleasantly surprised.

 

[Vitamine W]

Quite a lot this reminds me of Viktor & Rolf.

Truth. Probably why I like it.

 

[dodencebt]

So much editing is needed, but at the end of the day there's a lot of great eveningwear. This is still in the vein of the last few couture shows but you can tell Pierpaolo is slowly moving toward different silhouettes - hello mermaid gowns - and fabrics, like replacing most of the taffeta with streamlined satin.

On a side note, I would love to see that sequin blue dress on Julianne Moore soon.

 

[Yohji]

To be honest, I don’t care how messy it is because it’s so much fun to watch. I think he and Galliano consistently save Couture Week from being a total disaster.

 

[Salvatore]

I appreciate that he switched it up a bit from what we came to know him for the last few seasons as far as haute couture is concerned. That said, this is not my favourite and with all of the looks presented, I am still left wanting more. I did love that blue sequin gown on Mariacarla as well as the red gown in photo N.5 of post 3. Gorgeous.

 

[dior_couture1245]

After looking at it again...there are great looks, and beautiful pieces, and striking details...

But somehow it just doesn’t add up.

I find PPP’s Couture collections to be, despite all odds, so two-dimensional. You’d think with all that surface treatment, all that fabric manipulation and decoration, all the shine and color that’d you get something more out of it...but still it all comes out flat to me.

I’m not sure exactly what it is that is missing. Maybe sex appeal? I think that’s why I like that look on Hannah Elyse most...because she’s sexy and it shows. But I don’t think sex appeal is the only thing missing...maybe it’s also too polished? Too Madame?? Also, maybe he needs to inject a bit of a narrative into the shows?

He still has yet to top his debut solo Couture show, which was so masterful.

 

[Sensation]

It's a welcomed change after the last few seasons.

 

[perfect blue]

He is a great designer and one who ups the skill level at couture week. I just am starting to feel like I already know what I'm going to see whenever it's Valentino's day to show. I haven't been proven wrong yet so far. Maybe it's a good thing that he has a signature look now though.

 

[Lola701]

I was pleasantly surprised by this collection after the disaster of his show in China.
I loved the more grown up allure, the cast and the eccentricity of this collection as opposed to the endless extravaganza we have been used to with him. The models looked like eccentric socialites.

I like most of it but I feel like he needs to work more on his daywear that despite being luxurious, can be quite simplistic. It looks quite heavy too.
I also think that he needs to go back to the essence of Valentino and Alta Moda: something comfortable, luxurious buy not precious and a Jet-Set allure. I think that 70´s Valentino and also his 1997-2001 era can be a great inspiration.

While I love a lot of this, I must admit that the lack of consistency between Couture and RTW kills the vibe. He should remember John’s mantra: Couture is the Eau de Parfum and RTW is the Eau de Toilette...PP’s RTW is not even a flanker of his Couture.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^Exactly.

He needs to watch the video of the Fall/Winter 1998 and Spring/Summer 1999 Couture shows. He needs to remember that Valentino needs to be easy, in a certain way. That’s why, like I said, I like his debut solo Couture show...because I think it captured the ease, the lightness, the comfortable quality while still being decadent and luxurious and so, so pretty.

And I also completely agree with you regarding the incoherency between his HC and his RTW...it is kind of a buzzkill. John at his best at Dior filtered his Couture concepts to RTW in an inventive and clever way, giving the ideas a new and novel purpose through the translation process. PPP’s Valentino RTW just ends up looking like the cheap Zara version of his Couture. It serves no distinct purpose.

 

[vogue28]

It's a welcomed change after the last few seasons.

It is. I was watching via live stream on Business of Fashion’s IG, who didn’t state which show it was and for the first few minutes I was questioning who I was watching.

There’s some really wonderful creations here, love the colour palette, all the bows and ruffles and how everything’s just quintessential couture.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Really enjoyable and from what I gather a breath of fresh air for many of us, who were tired of how heavy and overworked his work was beggining to be. The daywear was my favorite part, it's a bit more practical but it retains that grande dame allure that's become his signature.

I had the chance to see some Valentino Giaravani HC looks recently and I agree that a certain italian ease flows through his work, it would be fascinating to see PP explore that more and set aside the stuffy taffeta in favor of looks like this: sensual yet sophisticated.

 

[perfect blue]

Seeing it on video helped change my perception. I ended up liking a lot more.