YOU’VE HEARD OF extreme sports? Well, on Wednesday evening, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino brought the fashion equivalent — extreme designing — to New York.
The triple-collection punch of this time of year (pre-fall in December/January, men’s wear in January and women’s wear in February) usually keeps designers hunkered down in their ateliers. But Ms. Chiuri and Mr. Piccioli, who also have a Paris couture collection in January, decided that the best way to celebrate their recently unveiled Fifth Avenue flagship would be to create an entirely new 47-piece couture collection in its honor and bring the show to Manhattan. That meant they were working on five — count ‘em — lines at the same time.
Such a thing has never, as far as I know, been done before.
“We wanted to say something about Italian craftsmanship, Italian values, Italian culture,” Mr. Piccioli said backstage before the show. “To share this renaissance ideal of execution and idea going hand-in-hand, which is the purpose of couture.” And, he said, they wanted to do something that was not normally done in New York, a prêt-à-porter city.
Perhaps because of the challenge, numerous fellow designers, as well as a variety of celebrity fans, turned out on Wednesday for the show and “dinner soirée” held in the former Whitney Museum of American Art on Madison Avenue. Tommy Hilfiger, Prabal Gurung, Derek Lam, Peter Dundas of Pucci, Peter Copping of Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein, Valentino Garavani himself, the company’s former chief executive Giancarlo Giammetti, and Ruben and Isabel Toledo were all there to demonstrate support — or at least ogle the effort. So were Katie Holmes, Olivia Munn, Ben Stiller, James Marsden and Sofia Coppola.
And did Ms. Chiuri and Mr. Piccioli pull it off?
The show was inspired by Mr. Garavani’s 1962 Sala Bianca collection and his 1968 “Sfilata Bianca show, as well as by his relationship with Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, whom he dressed for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis. (This provided the connection between New York and Rome for Ms. Chiuri and Mr. Piccioli.) It was a parade of not-quite-50 shades of white in largely 1960s daywear silhouettes, mixed with regal gowns and naïvely romantic frocks.
There were “suits” of plain white tunics over skinny trousers; A-line miniskirts patchworked from crocodile, leather and pony skin paired with sheer tulle blouses; a small-shouldered, back-belted crocodile car coat and light-as-air point d’esprit dresses encrusted with mini-leather blooms. There were coats composed of cream chevrons with hems that swept the floor; crepe columns with capes attached at the back; and a finale of lace and tulle that included one dress made only of stitched tiers that took two people two months to sew.
“The most expensive materials will never be as precious as the time people spend working on the collection,” Mr. Piccioli said. “That is the real richness.”
Indeed, while some of the styles may have been a little literal in their ’60s shapes, and others tipped into a saccharine froth (cut by the sheerness that showed quite a lot of skin), the tailored, covered-up, almost austere looks resonated with that ineffable sense of elegance that couture can provide: the knowledge that you are looking at something that is truly better, and you have no idea why. When a floor-length cashmere T-shirt gown becomes the definition of chic, you know something different is going on.
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For anyone given to questioning the point of this particular fashion niche, Ms. Chiuri and Mr. Piccioli provided a meaningful answer.
The last dress of the show was embroidered with “Love NY” in pop-art script, Judging by the standing ovation the designers received (and the fact that the store, in the former Takashimaya building, once did $160,000 worth of business in one day from one customer, Stefano Sassi, the chief executive, told me after it opened), New York loves them, too.
Ms. Chiuri and Mr. Piccioli seem to be making something of a practice of creating new couture collections in honor of every flagship. They made one for their Shanghai opening in 2013, and they have another planned for July, to coincide with their new Rome store. That one, at least, will be a replacement for their usual Paris couture, and not an extra collection. But still, as a whole, this sets a new precedent (or even a trend) for their peers. The bar has been raised, and the gauntlet thrown.