Versace F/W 2023.24 Los Angeles

I think she had some strong looks but it also felt slightly lost.

I wouldn’t have mind if Donatella had kept the main inspiration of the show for all of the gowns/ long dresses.
that coral colour however was not the greatest idea nor were the extremely bright coloured gloves imo.

the cast was good enough for the show but it lacked some fierceness.
 
Totally agree with the fact that models had to travel cross country but not even that...the entire ocean since most girls have just finished their Paris Fashion Week run.
But let's say most of the had to come to the US anyways since they mostly live in NYC I guess so in their case we are talking about lower carbon impact :D :D but then think of all the press and celebs. Just pointless but hey - LA gen Z buzz right? We all have to pay bills

They definitely paid the models and arm and a leg to fly them out here from Paris/NYC, along with a nice stay at the SLS hotel nearby. And with it being Oscars weekend, this is a good chunk of their marketing spend for the year.
 
They definitely paid the models and arm and a leg to fly them out here from Paris/NYC, along with a nice stay at the SLS hotel nearby. And with it being Oscars weekend, this is a good chunk of their marketing spend for the year.
Ah oscars of course... :facepalm:
Ignore my eco ramble!
 
I have mixed feelings about this collection.

First of all, it’s a great idea to show in LA a main collection at this stage for the brand. They are growing and even if Versace is very much associated with Miami, when you go to parties in LA, you see people in Versace. It’s great for the aura of the brand but it also put them in the conversation alongside all the brands that does that.

In a way because this isn’t a collection designed for LA but could have been shown in Milan, it has more less of a « local » aspect as the ones from Tom Ford or Celine that had shown in LA before.

Now the collection…
She basically mixed the Atelier SS95 with the RTW from FW94, some archives pieces from her time and some current annoying stylings tricks that are very now for a collection that was very rich but not directional.

It’s commercial and it works but it’s also boring. The denim was generic and there were some unsettling propositions.

That being said I love the pumps inspired by the 1992 collection I think. Sexiest shoes of the season with YSL. The eveningwear with volumes was also interesting…

The casting was so weird…
To see one of the best walker, Anok, struggle is quite annoying and not to hate on them but neither Kendall and Gigi have enough personality on the runway to be able to open or close a show. When you have Immaan, Vittoria or even Rianne…Take advantage of the situation.
 
I think there were some nice offerings for men, much more than for women. The leather coats were great. Some bags were nice. The gloves were hideous. Denim not necessary. Casting-wise she seems stuck in 2017 for the most part and a lot of them didn't seem comfortable and it was strange to see Anok struggle
 
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Watching the arrivals of the celebs kind of looked like some weird AI or IMVU virtual loading bay. So strange to watch. Pamela looked great though.

These models were SEDATED and struggling for the most part. The lack of energy gave the collection an even more dour mood than it already had. Some fabulous looks here and there, but we've seen this all too many times because it feels like they've been churning out the same kind of collection for a while now.

The fabrics looked... stock service. Again, might be because it repeats what has been Versace for the last couple of years. Just depletes the feeling of luxury.
 
She basically mixed the Atelier SS95 with the RTW from FW94,

Yes, the collection really reminded me of Gianni's work in '94/'95 when he was simplifying things, looking at the 50s and 60s. I like that period of Versace, so there were some looks that I liked, particularly the tailoring. But I don't think this collection is going to change anyone's mind about Versace.

Some others thoughts I had about the collection:

1. Probably staged in LA because the atelier is there for the Oscars? I would love to see Imaan's dress on Michelle Yeoh, and that men's crystal encrusted tank on Timothee Chalemet.

2. The menswear is irrelevant.

3. The bags are very dated. Like things you would see in one of the back rooms of Century 21.

4. Gigi Hadid is not right for the brand

5. I think the models were walking on an incline at the start of the runway. That's probably why they looked like they were struggling.

6. Donatella actually looks really great.
 
Yes, the collection really reminded me of Gianni's work in '94/'95 when he was simplifying things, looking at the 50s and 60s. I like that period of Versace, so there were some looks that I liked, particularly the tailoring. But I don't think this collection is going to change anyone's mind about Versace.

Some others thoughts I had about the collection:

1. Probably staged in LA because the atelier is there for the Oscars? I would love to see Imaan's dress on Michelle Yeoh, and that men's crystal encrusted tank on Timothee Chalemet.

2. The menswear is irrelevant.

3. The bags are very dated. Like things you would see in one of the back rooms of Century 21.

4. Gigi Hadid is not right for the brand

5. I think the models were walking on an incline at the start of the runway. That's probably why they looked like they were struggling.

6. Donatella actually looks really great.
I think showing during Oscar season is always good for a brand in terms of exposure. They have all the celebrities in town, it’s a busy weekend and the show was supposed to happen on Friday so it was supposed to launch the festivities in a way…

Regarding the direct relationship between the Oscars and the show…I don’t really see that. I mean Tom Ford showed 2 times around the Oscars and one time as a director and he only dressed one woman and various men.

The reality is that a lot of celebrities are under contracts with brands and the Oscars is generally the ceremony where the contract make the most sense. I can see a lot of people wearing Versace at the After Party but Donatella will probably dress someone who was part of a campaign or who she has established a real relationship with but a Nominee? I doubt.

I expect Chalamet and Tilda to wear Gaultier by Ackermann.

Donatella looks great and the set was really beautiful. I wished there were clothes that moves really. You want to see beautiful chiffon with that sky..
 
Donatella going dark— even sinister, as she did so successfully after Gianni, back in the late-90s, was gloriously gorgeous. This unfortunately, wasn’t it: Feel and looks like a PG-rated Disney x Versace. Can’t help but feel like it’s copying Anthony’s SL with the huge production. But completely lacking the finesse of that brand’s masterful cinematic production, perfect casting, and confidence precision in fashion. This looks and feels very desperate.

Perhaps rather than rely on LA/celebs/bigger is better, make a tad more of an effort by focusing on the designs and cast women and men— not girls and boys. And obliterating the denim wouldn’t hurt. Only the shimmering, patented, croc-stamped leathers, bronzy/goldish looks being able to vamp up the classic Versace heat. And the lonely black pleated 1950s skirt is nice… See couple of the guys from the late-90s/early-2000s that were the faces of Versace by Testino are also nice, along with Imaan outpacing/outstrutting/outshining everyone else so effortlessly never disappoints. Even Gigi looked like she had had enough of the ridiculously oversized ground they had to cover so needlessly… What a silly venue.

There’s absolutely a decent offering in there somewhere… (What is it with just now catching up to the tacky flexing of the label on the sleeve fad??? It’s a few years too late…)
 
I don't feel like watching the video because I've come to realize that I absolutely do not like the current format of runway videography. It's always the same music, same sterile fierce walk from 7000 different angles. Nobody is selling me anything. What is taking so long for voguerunway to upload the pictures? I check back periodically and they've still only on posted 10 looks.
 
I really don't mind it at all tbh. Just a bit undercooked. It just sucks because Versace is in such a good position to give us architectural punk glamor during such a boring phase in fashion history. Instead, they just kinda conformed.

And yes! Donatella is looking her best in DECADES.
 
^^^ Imaan looks like she’s in a Gianni show circa-1995: Her curves, her swagger, her big hair and her enduring smoulder that doesn’t miss a single step.

I don't feel like watching the video because I've come to realize that I absolutely do not like the current format of runway videography. It's always the same music, same sterile fierce walk from 7000 different angles. Nobody is selling me anything. What is taking so long for voguerunway to upload the pictures? I check back periodically and they've still only on posted 10 looks.

You should watch the show— it’s unintentionally hilarious. And Imaan and some of the older men, are the only signs of the appropriate attitude, otherwise, not a whiff of ferocity. The poor ones that have to walk with their hands on hips for that entire duration of the stupid arena are just being punished. And hilarious how Naomi is shown entering the arena, only to cut to her still doing the round after several girls later. And that eyesore that is the centre staircase isn’t even used… It’s on the level of a department store fashion show mediocrity..
 
A lot of the dresses especially in the second half of the show give me strong Marc Jacobs + MJ @ Louis Vuitton circa F/W 2009 except less interesting or fun.
 
I couldn't finish, sorry, the menswear is sexy, interesting and far superior to the womenswear, which imho is a terrible potluck mixing all the trends at once, and referencing so many designers way too literally... For a while, I just thought I was in a Miu Miu show.
 

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