Images and Text Source: theguardian.comVictoria Beckham: I used to feel famous, but now I feel successful
The ex-Spice Girl has forged a fashion empire with hard work, sharp business sense and a real understanding of how women want to dress. The fashion industry admires her, the public love her and finally she believes in herself.
By Jess Cartner-Morley
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Photograph: Rory van Millingen/The Guardian
One midsummer evening not long ago, I rang the buzzer of a Holland Park mansion, wedding-cake white with black railings. The lady of the house, barefoot in a floral-print dress, opened the door and politely held out a hand for me to shake. (It was her left hand, but it’s the thought that counts.) “Hello! I had a party,” she said. “It was so good. It was my birthday. And now we’ve got goldfish. Have you got goldfish?” And with that Harper Beckham, three, hopped on to her lilac scooter and led the way into the sitting room.
This is not how interviews with fashion designers usually begin. But Victoria Beckham has built a label which last year took £30 million in sales by doing things her own way. She is the ex-Spice Girl who took on the fashion industry and won them over; the Wag who became a player. Let other designers play the eccentric artist; Beckham is the multitasking modern woman, seating her children next to Anna Wintour at her last fashion show.
Which is how I come to be in the Beckhams’ sitting room holding a glass of white wine while Harper helps herself to the olives and crackers and pours us doll-sized cups of water as tea. “She usually goes to bed at seven,” says Victoria, scooping her daughter up for a cuddle, “but I’ve been at work all day, so I have hardly seen her.”
The Victoria Beckham story is a post-modern fairytale. First, she was famous for being famous; then, she became – against all expectations – famous for actually being good at something. There is, of course, a prince in this story (more of him later) but the glass-slipper moment in the fable of Victoria Beckham is not her Vera Wang-clad wedding 15 years ago, but the morning nine years later when she presented her first collection to fashion editors and buyers in a New York hotel suite to rave reviews.
What makes the Victoria Beckham story so compelling to the women who buy her dresses is that Victoria Beckham is living, breathing proof of the transformative powers of fashion. We buy clothes because we believe they will help us become who we want to be. It is the dresses with her name on the label – yours for around £1,500 a pop – which made Victoria Beckham who she is today. That is one very powerful sales pitch.
The sitting room where Victoria, Harper, Natalie the PR and I sit on a trio of neutral-toned sofas, runs the full width of the house, opening on to the garden. Victoria is a great deal more beautiful in person than she looks in paparazzi shots. You expect the glossy mane, the perfect nails, the caramel skin; it’s the almond-shaped, dark-chocolate eyes which take you by suprise. She usually keeps them hidden behind enormous sunglasses.
Her decor is a cheerful mix of grown-up taste and family life: one table holds a vast white orchid and tomes of fashion photography; another bears half of a Frozen-themed cake, leftover from Harper’s party. Ana and Elsa – the goldfish – are on the dining room table. (“They’re supposed to be in Harper’s room, but the bowl is too heavy for me to carry upstairs so it will have to wait till David gets home.”) David and the boys – Brooklyn (15), Romeo (12) and Cruz (nine) – have left to spend the holidays in LA. Victoria has more work to do on the collection to be shown in New York on 7 September before she and Harper fly out to join them.
Being Victoria Beckham is a number of overlapping full-time jobs: mother, designer, brand ambassador, businesswoman. I met Victoria a few times over the summer in an attempt to get a 360-degree picture of the woman behind the brand. It became clear that she makes her schedule work by doing several things at once. We talked about the future of her company sitting on her sofa while she cuddled Harper. On a site visit to her London store, she took calls from Brooklyn – the first time he had forgotten his lunch money, the second he just called to check in. One afternoon at her Battersea headquarters, she showed me around her two ateliers and stopped to point out, hanging on a rail outside her office, the dress she had picked to wear to the Wimbledon men’s final: a priceless piece of publicity for her label, which saw that dress on TV screens and websites globally.
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Photograph: Rory van Millingen/The Guardian
At home on her sofa, she reflects that “I know that I’m lucky to be in a position to plan my diary around the kids’ assemblies and sports days. I never miss those. But on the other hand, I don’t ever watch TV. After dinner I’ll catch up with emails. And when I’m lying in bed I think about the next collection. That makes me sound insane, doesn’t it? That I’m getting into bed with David Beckham and thinking about clothes.”
The best new year resolution Victoria ever made was “to start going to the gym. That was nearly four years ago, when we were in LA and I was pregnant with Harper, and I’ve never stopped. Once I get into something, I do it properly.” Her daily routine begins – six days a week, at 6am on weekdays – with a 90-minute workout with a trainer. (Harper shows us a set of professional-looking bicep curls with a set of pretend dumbbells she has made from twists of craft paper: clearly, she has observed a few.) Victoria runs (eight miles around Richmond Park with Tana Ramsay the other day) and in LA attends the ferocious SoulCycle classes. She eats lots of fruit (“the most popular thing I make in my kitchen is a mango carved into a hedgehog. I do that and the kids tell everyone I’m an amazing cook”), fish and vegetables.
On a school day, after training she will “get the kids up, do breakfast, check if there are any spelling tests or maths tests, if they need football boots. It’s complicated because two of the boys go to the same school, Brooklyn goes to a different school, Harper goes to another school, so usually David and I each do a school run.” These days, the paparazzi mostly leave them in peace. “I can walk to Marks & Spencer or to the park with the kids and I probably won’t be photographed.”
The Victoria Beckham label has undergone an intriguing evolution in its six-year lifespan. Where the first collections of dresses were all about structure, using corsetry to sculpt a silhouette, within two years the aesthetic had loosened up to include draped parachute-silk. The business expanded with the more accessibly priced “Victoria Victoria Beckham” line, and flat shoes, trousers and oversized coats appeared alongside the hourglass numbers she calls her “signature dresses”. The new collection centers around lean but easy shapes: a high-neck sweater with a simple skirt, a silky tunic over slim trousers, a fluid sleeveless coat.
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If you were to psychoanalyse the clothes, you could say that they have become less about a perfect body and more about personality. The Victoria Beckham woman has a shape to her as a person, which is no longer defined by her waist size. I put this to Victoria. She is sceptical – “there was more corsetry at the beginning because we were a small team, with a smaller skill-set, as the atelier expanded we’ve been able to try more things” – but agrees that the way she herself dresses has changed. “Because I’m coming to work every day, I tend to wear things that are a little looser; if I want to look dressy, I put on my sunglasses. I used to wear clothes which would make me stand out and now I don’t so much because I don’t feel I have anything to prove.” Her day look seldom swerves beyond navy, black, cream and grey; as well as her own label, she wears Céline, Saint Laurent, Comme des Garçons.
Her personal heroines are “Hillary Clinton for a start. I love her, don’t you? And Sheryl Sandberg. And Michelle Obama. Strong women, that’s who I really respect.” It is nearly two years since I last spent significant time talking to Victoria and she has changed a great deal. That was Victoria Beckham 2.0, transformed from pop star to promising designer. Victoria Beckham 3.0 is much more comfortable inhabiting the role of the boss and talking business, less inclined to crack jokes to lighten the mood.
Success this time around feels different from her pop star life, she says. “First time around I felt famous, but now I feel successful.” She wears her power lightly – she speaks softly, has flawless manners, and returns several times to the importance of being “respectful” (of her team’s talents, of other people’s time) – but “the final decision is always mine. It’s really important that every aspect of what we do – the clothes, the swing tags, the shelves, everything – represents my point of view, because that’s what the brand stands for.”
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Photograph: Rory van Millingen/The Guardian
Two years ago, Victoria Beckham had one floor in the Battersea HQ; now her 100-plus team are sprawled over several floors, with two in-house ateliers. “I went to Net-a-Porter the other day,” she says, as we tour her scattered empire criss-crossing endless staircases and courtyards, “and their office is my dream. I called Zach [Duane, her CEO] and told him, ‘I want an office like that’! But basically, he said no. Not yet.”
In her office – grey sofas, white-shuttered windows and a huge black and white photograph of her children – she talked through her day’s schedule, which included a meeting about rebranding and castings for a fit model, and I asked if she thought she’d still be working this hard in 10 years time, when she turns 50. “Probably, yes, knowing me. Although my mum can’t understand why I’m working this hard now, to be honest.” There is no financial need for Victoria to work and, for this reason, critics have been inclined to call into question whether she “really does anything”. (One notices that this is a logic seldom applied to successful men.) “The thing is,” she says, “I’ve always worked. The Spice Girls had a crazy schedule. I can’t imagine what I’d do all day if I didn’t work. I’m lucky that I do something I love, and I am proud as I think it’s a positive message to give to young women: if you want to have a career, and be married with children, then you can. It’s full-on, but it’s doable.”
This autumn sees the opening of a 7,000 sq ft boutique on Dover Street in Mayfair. For a site meeting with Farshid Moussavi, the architect, Victoria arrives in skinny jeans, black flats, a black sweater and her own-label Liberty tote. She initially balks when handed a hard hat – “are you serious? I just had a blow dry” – but is soon posing in it, and posting the pictures on Instagram. The meeting covers rail fittings – should the clothes be held static (looks neat) or have flex to be rotated on the hanger (useful for customers)? Then it’s on to carpet for the fitting room – grey or green?
Victoria makes quick decisions, often pushing for the purist design option. She wants the store to be “sophisticated, a bit conceptual. It’s not just about selling. I want it to work for someone who isn’t necessarily going to buy anything, but who wants to experience the brand through my eyes.” She leaves for a meeting, dipping into her bag for powder and lipstick before walking out to find her driver while taking a call – David, presumably – who rings to suggest dinner. Love to, she says, do you want to pick me up after work?
“The part of the puzzle I find difficult,” Victoria told me, “is having a social life. Because I work and then go home to be with the children.” I sympathised, agreeing that with a career, kids and a marriage, something has to give. That’s just how it is, I shrugged. She gave me one of her delicate little frowns, and softly chided my defeatist point of view. “I don’t see why it has to be like that,” she said. “You know what I think, Jess? I think we need to try a little bit harder.”
Text & images source: wwd.comVictoria Beckham Unveils First London Store
By Samantha Conti
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LONDON — Victoria Beckham has built a dream space on Dover Street in London, her first store and “second home” in Mayfair, where she can express her vision on the shop floor. The 6,040-square-foot space spans three floors, and has more in common with a contemporary art gallery than a typical London luxury flagship.
Designed by the architect Farshid Moussavi, a Harvard professor whose past works include the Museum of Contemporary Art in Cleveland, Ohio, the first Victoria Beckham flagship was always meant to be a democratic space. “I wanted a space that was conceptual — but also warm and welcoming,” said Beckham, who was filled with excitement during a recent tour of the store, which opens Thursday.
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“There are a lot of people — the general public — who’ve continued on this journey with me, and I want everybody to feel welcome, whether they’re going to buy something, or whether they just want to come and check out the architecture. And I really wanted people to get a sense of me the minute they walked through the door,” said Beckham.
Everything — the ready-to-wear and accessories offer, merchandising, size of the dressing rooms, “blonde gold” zigzag rails and hanger chains — bears her fingerprint. There is also a conspicuous lack of cash registers; instead all transactions will be via iPad, eliminating the need for “ugly” tills, according to the designer.
“For the first time, it’s my designs, my vision. This is how I feel the clothes should be showcased, how I like them to be seen. That’s been very exciting for me — to be able to buy what I believe the customer wants,” said Beckham, adding it was important that the space be flexible and able to accommodate a “constant flow” of new product. “We can play with how we merchandise things, and I think that’s a very modern way of shopping. So hopefully, every time somebody comes to the store it’s going to be a slightly different experience,” she said.
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As for her buy, Beckham said she’s invested “quite heavily” in show looks. “I think it’s important that women can actually buy what they see on the catwalk and what they’re seeing in magazines,” said the designer, who is also stocking exclusive sunglass styles, small leather goods, key rings and a skate chain inspired by the one her husband David Beckham wears.
Mr. Beckham himself — all smiles — made an unscheduled appearance during the walk-through, to the surprise of his wife. “It’s great, isn’t it, David?” she asked him. “Have you seen how these move?” she said as she twisted the walnut hangers that are attached to golden chains suspended from tracks on the ceiling.
She also recounted how the couple’s boys reacted when they first saw the space. “It was so cool when the kids saw it yesterday, David. They literally ran up the stairs, and Brooklyn ran to me and said, ‘This is the coolest shop ever!’ Cruz went like, ‘Wow, mummy has a proper job.’”
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A gigantic polished concrete staircase visible throughout the store connects the three levels. Floors are also done in polished concrete, and are offset by stainless steel counters, the shiny zigzag clothing rails and the golden chain hangers. Ceilings are clad with stainless steel mirrors, with the exception of the top floor, where that surface has been done as a diagonal concrete grid.
A big, sliding concrete door marks the entrance, and the street-facing window has no display. Instead, passersby will be able to look straight into the ground floor, which houses accessories on retractable shelves, and the VVB and Denim collections.
Midway up the staircase, on the way to the top floor, is a blank wall where Beckham plans to project runway images or her own backstage footage of models. Upstairs houses rtw and a lineup of supersize dressing rooms, their doors clad in bottle-green glass. “When I go shopping, I’ve always got at least one child. There’s lots of room to hang clothes — and flattering lighting. I wanted the store to look beautiful, but I also wanted it to work as well,” she said.
The lower ground level — visible from the upper floors — is arguably the space that holds the most potential for Beckham. “I think I will do presentations there, whether it’s trunk shows, or it will be a case of me just turning up and having appointments with customers that want to see me, to place orders with me specifically. It’s important that I really have a presence because I’m so hands-on with every element of my business and people can see that, people can feel that, and so I will be here a lot. This does feel like my second home.”
The lower ground-floor space is so big that part of it will be used as a stockroom, both for the store and for the brand’s e-commerce site.
Beckham said the Mayfair location, with neighbors including Dover Street Market, John Rocha, Chucs Bar & Grill and a lineup of galleries and restaurants, is ideal. “I looked at lots of different locations, but I do believe in fate, and this just happened to be the perfect space in the most perfect street. I did look at other streets, but this just felt right. I feel very honored to actually be in a street amongst such incredible stores. The energy is incredible.”
Zach Duane, the brand’s chief executive officer, said it was critical the store be a reflection of Beckham’s brand. “The world is changed, people are shopping online a lot more, so what they are looking for in a store environment is an experience, a really strong sense of what the designer is about, their point of view, their world,” he said.
While digital is great — and important — Duane said the other side of the coin is “personal interaction. The customer starts to expect a different experience, so brands will be forced to be a bit more original in what they’re doing in their physical spaces.”
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He also said the choice of street was strategic. While Dover Street is in the heart of Mayfair, it is better known for restaurants and art galleries than for luxury retail — although that’s rapidly changing. “There’s no way we could have opened a store like this on Bond Street. For the company we are today, and the size we are, it would have been impossible. So we decided that we’d go slightly off the track,” he said.
Duane declined to give a first-year sales projection. Real estate sources here said the annual rent on the building is about 550,000 pounds, or $900,000 at current exchange.
There is no question the London store is a milestone.
Duane said the U.K. is the brand’s “single best-performing country,” followed by North America, Europe, Asia and the Middle East. The Dover Street unit, he added, will be a template for future standalone stores and shops-in-shop. “It allows us to start thinking about how we take the idea, the finishes and designs that have gone into this store and reflect that in other stores around the world,” he said.
theguardian.comVictoria Beckham tops chart of Britain’s most successful entrepreneurs
Designer heads rankings based on turnover growth and job creation over the past five years for her fashion label
By Caroline Davies
Victoria Beckham, the pop star, model and Wag who reinvented herself as a fashion designer, has topped a list of Britain’s 100 most successful entrepreneurs of 2014.
The woman formerly known as Posh Spice came in at No 1 in the list compiled for business magazine Management Today. The rankings are drawn up by assessing turnover growth and job creation over the past five years.
The magazine said of the designer, who opened a 6,000 sq ft (550 sq metre) boutique in Mayfair, central London, for her fashion brand last month: “Beckham is living proof that celebrity may be the most marketable commodity of all.”
Philip Beresford, who drew up the list, said it was “her finely tuned business acumen” that won her the top spot.
Since the 40-year-old mother-of-four and former Spice Girl set up her fashion business five years ago, her staff has grown from three to a 100-strong team with the latest turnover at £30m.
Offering leather credit card holders for £150, T-shirts for more than £700 and handbags for up to £18,000, she has seen sales growth of 2,900% and employment growth of 3,233%. “Deservedly she is number one in these two crucial measurements for success,” Beresford said.
The accolade follows her topping of a poll to find the greatest style icon at London fashion week in September.
Beckham spoke of her transformation from singer to designer in a recent Guardian interview, saying: “First time around I felt famous, but now I feel successful.”
She added: “I used to wear clothes which would make me stand out and now I don’t so much because I don’t feel I have anything to prove.”
Born Victoria Adams in Harlow, Essex, she burst on to the pop scene with the Spice Girls in the mid 1990s and married the England footballer David Beckham in 1999. The couple’s joint wealth is estimated at £380m, and she is credited as the driving force behind “Brand Beckham”.
She joined the other Spice Girls for a world tour in 2007/8, but chose not to perform a solo song, instead posing as though in a fashion show, in a nod to where her real ambitions lay.
Beckham launched her eponymous fashion label in 2008, and a lower priced diffusion label in 2011. As a businesswoman, she has demonstrated herself to be “an adept exploiter of her own celeb value”, according to the list. By 2011 she was a fixture at New York fashion week.
Her Dover Street shop opened in September, but she missed the official opening to speak to the UN general assembly in New York about her role in the UNAids campaign. Since then a steady stream of celebrities have been through its doors. It has been likened to an art gallery, with sparse interior, clothes hanging from chains on the ceiling or a jagged rail, and no cash tills as all purchases are completed through an iPad.
The “burgeoning entrepreneurial talent” of Britain’s Asian community is also evident in the list, said Management Today, with nine individuals or families making the rankings. They are led by brother-and-sister team Amit and Meeta Patel, in second place, just pipped by Beckham. The siblings’ London-based pharma operation, Auden McKenzie, specialises in the development, licensing and marketing of niche generic medicines, and is at the cutting edge of work into areas such as treating heroin addiction.
Mahmud Kamani, 50, of online fashion site Boohoo.com, is ranked third, while Julian Dunkerton 49, of clothing chain SuperGroup, claims fourth spot.
Apart from Beckham, the list includes 14 other women, up from 11 when the rankings were last published in 2011. Among them are software entrepreneur Suzanne Marshall-Forsyth and Cathie Paver, founder of Paver Shoes.
The top 100 were “real job creators”, said Management Today. “In five years, they have added more than 61,556 employees to their payrolls taking their head count to 158,189. This represents a 64% rise, and shows that in the critical area of productivity,(in which much of the UK economy is notably lacklustre) our MT 100 members are right on top of their game.”
A leading British based designer brand that has made an impact on the international stage over the past year with global distribution, stand alone store(s), dynamic campaigns and an e-commerce platform.
2014 Designer Brand of The Year:
Winner: Victoria Beckham
Finalists: Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney
Presenters: Anna Kendrick, Jeremy Irvine
Suzy Menkes, Vogue Germany eic Christiane Arp, and Suki Waterhouse:Victoria Beckham Creates T-shirt for World AIDS Day
By Jessica Iredale
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wwd.com
Victoria Beckham has designed a T-shirt to support World AIDS Day 2014, as part of her new role as UNAIDS Global Goodwill Ambassador.
The limited-edition tee features a screen-printed World AIDS Day ribbon logo and is available to buy at her Dover Street flagship, as well as online at Victoriabeckham.com. All proceeds from sales will go to the Joint United Nations Programme on HIV/AIDS (UNAIDS) to support their attempts to end the AIDS epidemic by 2030.
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"My personal commitment to raise awareness and resources to end the AIDS epidemic is one that is shared by my brand and we wanted to mark World AIDS Day with an initiative that my customers could also participate in," says Beckham.
The T-shirt will be available to buy throughout December, priced £90. All customers who purchase the design will receive a red World AIDS Day ribbon pin, which is also available to buy separately for £1 in the store.
"I am so pleased that Victoria is choosing to mark World AIDS Day with this excellent initiative bringing together the worlds of fashion and activism," says Michel Sidibé executive director of UNAIDS. "Thanks to her commitment as UNAIDS Global Goodwill Ambassador, we will raise awareness and much needed resources to get closer to our shared vision of zero new HIV infections, zero discrimination and zero AIDS-related deaths."
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harpersbazaar.co.uk
wwdVictoria Beckham Partners With Nails Inc.
By Jayme Cyk
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wwd.com
Just so her fans are aware, Victoria Beckham will not be participating in another Spice Girls reunion, nor will she be doing another fragrance with her husband, David Beckham. But the designer, who’s launching a full range of shoes next summer and just won brand of the year honors at the British Fashion Awards, still has plenty on her plate.
She is launching a limited-edition nail-polish collection with Nails Inc. for her Victoria Victoria Beckham line. The partnership, which will prelaunch on nailsinc.com starting on Monday, will roll out to stores in February. It marks her product debut in the color cosmetics market.
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“I have a strong eye and a strong opinion,” Beckham told WWD. “So, when the time is right, I would love to do [more] beauty [projects in the future].”
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instagram/jademcraig
The assortment will include a classic hue called Bamboo White, Beckham’s go-to shade for all her runway shows, and a tomato red, named Judo Red, which matches her Japanese-inspired spring collection. Also, instead of using Nails Inc.’s usual clear bottles, which were designed by Fabien Baron, Beckham chose one matte-white bottle and one matte-black bottle that have a matching cap and side windows that reveal the actual nail color.
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instagram/diarydirectory
The collaboration features a formulation called Stretch to Fit, which is inspired by the dresses in Beckham’s spring collection. Given the clothing’s Japanese influence, Nails Inc. added bamboo extract to strengthen nails.