Vintage Magazine Discussion Thread

Discussion in 'Vintage Magazines' started by RosieNikolaeva, Jan 30, 2015.

  1. obsession1990

    obsession1990 Member

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  2. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    There's not a vintage mag specific thread so I thought I'd just ask here where the regulars would most likely see this...


    Would it be interesting, helpful to create theme-based threads for fashion editorials?

    Like Masculin Femin, Cross-cultural, The Sounds of Fashion, Get Sporty etc. Whatever else you guys think helpful and fun!
     
  3. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    How about making this discussion thread Private?

    Perhaps people will speak, share more freely about their magazine resource discoveries, vintage magazine finds and insights?
     
  4. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    Can Mods Pin this Thread?
     
  5. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for pinning this thread lucy92!
     
  6. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    Now that this thread won't get lost in the shuffle, can we exchange ideas and create excitement in these parts?
     
  7. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    Gallagher’s Paper Collectibles Re-Opens in New York


    The shop at 12 Mercer Street will offer a small sliver of Gallagher’s fashion archives, with the rest available by special order | By David Lipke on March 19th 2012

    NEW YORK — When the legendary Gallagher’s Paper Collectibles shuttered its East Village doors in 2008 due to escalating rents, founder Michael Gallagher semiretired to the Catskills with his million-plus library of vintage fashion magazines, books and photography prints. He stored his unparalleled collection of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Town & Country, Flair and more arcane titles — some dating back to the 1860s — on a property he dubbed Fashion Farm in Greenville, N.Y.

    Now Gallagher’s is back, reopening today in a sleek new space at 12 Mercer Street. The shop will offer a small sliver of Gallagher’s archives, with the rest available by special order. The space is located adjacent to the offices of VFiles, an online social networking site launching in April that is a partnership between V magazine and former V executive editor Julie Anne Quay.

    “We are in the middle of building VFiles and we were looking for incredible content and Mike has the biggest collection anywhere of fashion magazines and photographs and paraphernalia,” said Quay. VFiles brokered a deal to incorporate Gallagher’s material onto the new digital site, as well as open the retail space, which revives a New York institution.

    Gallagher’s first opened in the late Eighties and became known for drawing the cream of the fashion world to its basement bunker. Steven Meisel, Anna Sui, John Galliano and Donna Karan were regular customers. As his reputation grew, Gallagher curated entire fashion libraries of magazines and books for the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs. He recalled Catherine Deneuve sitting among his aisles, perusing old titles.

    Along the way, Gallagher — a sociable former child actor and model — befriended many in the fashion world. The late New York Times fashion editor and Old Navy pitchwoman Carrie Donovan bequeathed much of her library to him, as did Costume Institute curator Richard Martin. He was close to Richard Avedon, Francesco Scavullo and Henri Cartier-Bresson, who gave him reign to dig through their basements and archives.

    “I met everybody. It was a family. There were only, like, 200 people working in fashion back then,” recalled Gallagher, who buys continuously at flea markets, estate sales and online.

    In the light, airy new shop on Mercer Street, there are neat stacks of the usual suspects like international editions of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar from various decades, as well as specialty titles such as Versace: The Magazine, Wet and Actuel. There are also old issues of Spy and a curious magazine called Teens’ and Boys’ Outfitters, which dates to 1968.

    An 1865 issue of Harper’s Bazaar, in newspaper format, can be had for about $100. “They’re actually not that rare. What’s rare is the Twenties and the Art Deco years,” explained Gallagher, adding that eBay and the Internet have driven up prices. “Now there’s vicious, vicious competition. Fashion really sells.”

    Gallagher’s offers a rotating selection from a 1 million-volume library | John Aquino
    [​IMG]

    Julie Anne Quay and Michael Gallagher | John Aquino
    [​IMG]

    This story first appeared in the March 19, 2012 issue of WWD.
     
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  8. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    I'm visiting London this weekend. Are there any must see vintage magazine shops I should checkout?


    "Glossy Guru"
    Harper's Bazaar September 2000
    Writer: James Servin



    "At magazine maestro Michael Gallagher's hot shop, browsers plot the fashion future."



    I dearly miss these kind of insightful features by passionate writers about passionate fashion devotees.
    Even inspiration sourcing was serendipitous yet personal. And tied to community and personal connections.

    [​IMG]
    my snap
     
    #148 ellastica, Sep 20, 2018
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2018
  9. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know the mastermind behind Pleasure Photo website? Fashion industry insiders?

    The photos are HQ although I do wonder about the image sources. For instance why do their VOGUE images have watermarks?

    What are your thoughts on sites like Pleasure Photo or The Red List?
     
  10. MagFan

    MagFan Well-Known Member

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    As for US Vogue single images they are from vogue.com most of the time. It was easy to get HQs when they posted articles something like "20 years of Ralph Lauren in Vogue" with a gallery from archives.
     
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  11. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. The watermarks always looked wonky to me like fan-made rather than official. Some of the photos esp pre '60s imagery is often new to me. The rest of the stuff is old news and in terms of timeliness strikes me as reactionary. My eyes thirst for the new inspiration esp since most of what's circulating on social media is regurgitated over, and over and over. It's a strange feedback loop which I can't unsee and I find nauseating after a while. I'm not looking for a dissertation but sharing WHY these images are meaningful to the person adds a much needed human element.

    I've yet to find a site which consistently posts original content that's not already been liked, re-pinned, tumblered, a million times over. I guess that's simply the nature of the social media beast. However, I've come across a handful of long-time fashion mag enthusiasts who at least post their own scans or snaps.

    Apart from say Ready Set Fashion who's blog I followed religiously back during my ellastica.blogspot days, I'm also a fan of The Rise & Shine Blog. I attempted to recruit Ann but we never linked up at the same time. No recent posts since 2016 but lovely nonetheless. Perhaps trivial to some but I enjoy reading the voice and motivations behind the images. Here's what she had to say about it.

    ABOUT

    Hi my name is Ann, I am a womenswear fashion designer, and have spent the past 20 years designing clothes for a large chunk of the uk high street. So, there is a pretty good chance you may have worn one of my creations.

    My blog has come about because I have a massive archive of old magazines, mainly from the 1990’s onwards that I cannot bare to part with. I blame an old tutor of mine, he had an archive from the 70’s and 80’s that I helped move for him, when I saw it I realized that I could no longer rip up my mags to create mood boards for my work and that i needed to preserve my favourites.

    Through college and several house moves along the way I have managed to keep my magazines with me.However, renovations and an expanding family means we are running out of space, so some of them just have to go.This is my way of saying goodbye, and sharing the images I have loved along the way.

    The imagery that has inspired me through my creative career. The imagery I select, will also be linked to things that I am currently inspired by. I have always been intrigued by trend, how things bubble up and become an influence, so I also want to share my current inspirations and fashionable thoughts along the way.

    One of the best parts of my day job is inspiring others, so hopefully by sharing my thoughts and ideas i will start inspiring you, my readers as well. So lets start with dusting down these magazines. i hope you enjoy sharing this with me, do let me know.

    thanks,
    Ann
     
    MagFan likes this.
  12. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    This is one of my favorite editorials of hers. In this issue of British Marie Claire Febrary 1996 Helmut Newton documents the adventurous and uber stylish male mavericks of British fashion. Glimpses of fashion people cross-dressing in their own threads, taking risks and having fun!

    [​IMG]
    source | riseandshineblog


    what Ann said:


    The equally riveting gang of equally dapper female Designers is here.


    source | theriseandshineblog.wordpress.com
     
  13. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    robinderrick

    Thirty years ago, at the age of 24, I left my job as art director of 'The Face' magazine and moved to Milan to work with the incredible Carla Sozzani and the amazing team she had assembled to launch Italian ELLE first issue - October 1987 - We thought we could change the world - it certainly changed my life - #whenprintmattered Repost from @carlasozzani “Italian ELLE. 30 years anniversary. Video by @la_decaminada of the first three issues : October-November-December 1987, Art direction by Robin Derrick, Claudio Dell'Olio, Daniele Basilico.

     
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  14. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    A Page Out of History

    [​IMG]

    By Cathy Horyn
    AUG. 28, 2005

    When writers reach for superlatives to describe 10 Corso Como, the Milan boutique-bookstore-gallery-café that Carla Sozzani opened in 1991, they usually compare it to a fashion magazine. Like a well-edited publication, Corso Como is organized around a belief that its patrons, many of them editors, are not so much buying the latest Prada or Comme des Garçons as they are Sozzani's point of view about these collections. There is also something about the store's open design that keeps you engaged, moving from one insight to the next, as the visual narrative of a magazine layout does.

    Sozzani was once an editor herself. For nine years, beginning in the late 1970's, she produced sister publications to Italian Vogue, like Vogue Bambini. She is also the sibling of Franca Sozzani, the editor of Italian Vogue, and these two connections are widely assumed to have influenced the style of Corso Como. But what few people know is that for eight months in 1987, Sozzani was the editor in chief of Italian Elle, an odd lacuna in her other careers as a muse (to Romeo Gigli) and retailer. Just three issues of Sozzani's Elle were produced, and they represent an aesthetic break in magazine publishing that was as rare in its beauty and influence as Anna Wintour's ten months at HG and even, perhaps, the more substantial Flair.

    Certainly there was nothing in Italy that compared to the extreme stylishness of Sozzani's first issue, in October 1987, with a cover photo by Nick Knight showing Kirsten Owen in a green Claude Montana jacket and a red Benetton turtleneck, her face drenched in light. Inside were more Knight photographs, including a stark double-page image of a black-fringed shoe, as well as fashion spreads by Peter Lindbergh, Andrew Bettles and Paolo Roversi. In the front of the issue, tucked between a runway report and a beautifully displayed travel piece about Scandinavia, was an eight-page Bruce Weber portfolio on Georgia O'Keeffe. In fact, there would be nothing to compare Elle to until the following summer, when Franca Sozzani, who had been the editor of Lei, took over Italian Vogue and revamped it with the art director Fabien Baron. By then, Carla had turned her attention to Gigli's career, having been fired from Elle.

    newyorktimes.com




    robinderrick
    :

    Pages from Glenda Baileys copies of my Italian ELLE | Posted on Wednesday, November 16th 2011

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. Mathewthew

    Mathewthew Active Member

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    Oh My God !!!, I just find out that the jalou archive was down. I’m so so sad, they are my must go website when I’m looking into vintage or old editorial spread
     
  16. ellastica

    ellastica Well-Known Member

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    welcome Mathewthew!

    the rash of magazine archive shutdowns in recent years breaks my heart. jalou, bwgreyscale, myfdb, and esp fashioniconography. I miss those teeny tiny magazine covers.

    I wish justaguy, kelles and lylascans and Rosie(!) would come back.
     
    #156 ellastica, Oct 3, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2018
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  17. Chloe Moin

    Chloe Moin New Member

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    Hey everyone! I'm crazy about vintage fashion, from 50's all the way to 90's, particularly in handbags! Now, where do I find vintage-design bags from? I love something that was designed to have a vintage look that's also affordable. xx thanks!
     
  18. Mattias

    Mattias New Member

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    At least with bwgreyscale you can reach it with archive.org but with jalou it's useless, I regret not downloading those issues sooner
     
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  19. BetteT

    BetteT Mod Squad Team Leader

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    Welcome to the Fashion Spot!

    I copied your post and started a new thread in the Handbags forum ... where you are more likely to catch the eye of members who know about handbags. It's here: New Handbags with Vintage Style?
     
  20. Chloe Moin

    Chloe Moin New Member

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    Thanks so much!
     

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