What happened to French fashion designers?

[fashionista-ta]

No I think its very different - Italy host mostly italian designers - the big italian houses are run by italians - prada , armani, dolce, versace, etc. - younger italian designers are great aslo IMO

All of your examples are either still family-owned, or have founders still at the helm. Missoni has stayed in the family too ... part of this may be related to Italian family-centered culture.

It may be too that you're giving too much credit to the names at the top. Perhaps much of the real design work at some French houses is being done by designers who are French (many seem to believe this is the case at Vuitton, although this most recent season seems to argue against that). You're also not taking into account the importance of all the French couture artisans (granted, they do seem to be a dying breed).

 

[Bidwell]

I know it is very hard to start a line as a young designer in Paris for a multitude of reasons. Funding is practically non existent and it's already a saturated market with a dwindling manufacturing base. Italy is the center of high quality production and the distribution channels thrive. The industry is simply much stronger there.
One can't underestimate the influx of Japanese designers in the early 80's and the Americans in the 90's. It set Paris up as an international capital not just French in outlook. Italy is still primarily homogenous when it comes to it's industry. Foreign talent is kept strictly anonymous for the most part while the Donatella's and Miuccia's take a bow.
Paris has nurtured good design wherever it may come from. The competition is that much more intense.
These days as well, good taste is often pushed to the sideline for something "different". The French have innate good taste and an eye for details.
Nicolas Ghesquière is prime example.
Let's not forget he had to work his way up through the ranks.
Note also that many international talents were schooled in Paris.

 

[mikevensel]

I agree that US street styles/McD and things like that have invaded the world, but when it comes to higher end design, Europe reigns (and Japan, I think). I think it's a bit misguided to focus on Paris, it's more a European/US thing if we want to argue this. There is more to Europe than Paris, we have London and Milan for instance. The focus shifts between them, but it stays here.

What do people consider top designers here? Top $$$ in sales - top ad spaces - highest amount of editorial pages - most artistic?

I think if you add the sales revenues of US fashion houses they will trump any other, count the ad pages in magazines i think it would also be us - since the us publishes more mags than any other country, and editorial as well - so what are you considering top - what a bunch of 15 year olds that cant even afford a viktor and rolf dress think is hot? Or what actual statistcal data shows? Just currious where this "top designers" info is coming from?

Who is the richest fashoin desigtner in the world? Ralph Lauren with an estimated net worth of over 2 billion dollars =)

 

[kimair]

they show in paris because it has ab "ooh lala que chic" factor - but many of them dont even live in paris - and those that do were not born and raised there - so how much influfnce do you think paris has on the design - very little from what I can gather...

i have to disagree with you on the first point...
i don't think chanel shows in paris because of any "ooh la la" factor...
they show in paris because they are a french house...as is ysl, balenciaga, and some of the other houses i named...

and i can't imagine chanel being "chanel" if they showed in nyc...
it has an obvious french sophistication about it, something you do not find in american houses/designers...

obviously sales plays a big role in a successful house, but many american designers have licencess, like ralph lauren...
how many things does he attach his name to? or vera wang, tommy hilfiger? that's where alot of revenue is coming from...perfumes, sheets, footwear...
with the exception of wang, who has brought a "couture" quality to her clothes, i would not say ralph lauren is doing anything remotely creative...

being rich does not equal good...

 

[PrinceOfCats]

If one sticks to actual designers - the plain facts are that the designers who most people on these boards seem to regard as 'top' designers are European or Japanese.

If one wants to get into some bizarre slagging match of cultural influences then France was the cradle of Western democracy, which is the basis of modern life, so stick that in your pipe and smoke it.

 

[mikevensel]

and i can't imagine chanel being "chanel" if they showed in nyc...
...

Karl is showing in NYC - Chanel may be next - you never know!

 

[fashionista-ta]

they show in paris because it has ab "ooh lala que chic" factor - but many of them dont even live in paris - and those that do were not born and raised there - so how much influfnce do you think paris has on the design - very little from what I can gather - modern design is influenced by many things - art, architecture, music, etc - take a walk around paris and see how much great contemporaty art by french designers you see - see how much modern architecture there is - how great is french music? - america has more influence on the world and on fashion than any other place, london would be #2 IMO

Sure, things have changed since there was no fashion but French fashion, but both Israeli Alber Elbaz and American Marc Jacobs both live in Paris now, and both seem clearly influenced by the fashionable Frenchwoman.

Also quite interesting that MAC has its limited edition Catherine Deneuve line out ... I was really pleased to see that, esp from a "young" line like MAC. The French mystique is alive and well in the US--and I suspect all over the world.

Perhaps I'm missing it, but I wouldn't have thought London was a huge influence ... you certainly don't see any magazine articles about how to dress like an Englishwoman ...

 

[mikevensel]

I have no doubt that europe and japan have great designers - this post is about france - name three top french born designers ....

 

[mikevensel]

Perhaps I'm missing it, but I wouldn't have thought London was a huge influence ... you certainly don't see any magazine articles about how to dress like an Englishwoman ...

Ok well I guess you dont follow art , architecture, music, etc. very much ...check some boards here many girls loooove kate moss and all her style, am I wrong?

 

[nanker_phledge]

Alber Elbaz, Nicolas Ghesquières , Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix . Happy ?

 

[susie_bubble]

I'm sorry but I have been reading all of this with bemusement. You seem to be very narrow-minded about what 'influential' means.

I disagree with the way you define success and influence by using monetry terms. Yes...Ralph Lauren may very well be worth $2 billion, but in the eyes of most discerning fashion lovers, he could be worth 2 cents for all they care.

As fashionista-ta has said, French fashion houses may be headed up by non-French ppl but one designer does not a fashion house make! Teams of designers could be swarming with French ppl for all we know.

This criticism about not enough French talent coming through with own labels is also often the same crit used for British designers and it does indeed all come down to funding and PR backing. It is incredibly hard to start up a label and be a success.

This is not to say that France does not have many successful and well-respected designers: Martine Sitbon, Jean Touitou (creater of A.P.C.), Isabel Marant, Sonia Rykiel, Vanessa Bruno, Guy Laroche, Jean Paul Gaultier
Are these ppl not French? You do recognise these names, do you not?

 

[PrinceOfCats]

Alber Elbaz,

Swap for Lacroix (Elbaz is French/Jewish/Moroccan).

 

[fashionista-ta]

Ok well I guess you dont follow art , architecture, music, etc. very much ...check some boards here many girls loooove kate moss and all her style, am I wrong?

That would be ONE Englishwoman, darling (and woman may be going too far).

And how would following art, architecture, and music have me coming across Kate Moss's fan base??? Perhaps you're thinking of Pete?

Englishwomen in general are considered to have all the style and flair of Camilla Parker-Bowles and her mother-in-law, the Queen.

 

[mikevensel]

Alber Elbaz, Nicolas Ghesquières , Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix . Happy ?

Alber Elbaz was born in morocco, then grew up in isreal

Jean Paul Gaultier is a top designer? I thought he retired in the 80s =)~

 

[fashionista-ta]

Swap for Lacroix (Elbaz is French/Jewish/Moroccan).

Exactly, although it's worth noting that there is still a huge French influence in Morocco and a lot of cultural communication between the two.

 

[susie_bubble]

Sure, things have changed since there was no fashion but French fashion, but both Israeli Alber Elbaz and American Marc Jacobs both live in Paris now, and both seem clearly influenced by the fashionable Frenchwoman.

Also quite interesting that MAC has its limited edition Catherine Deneuve line out ... I was really pleased to see that, esp from a "young" line like MAC. The French mystique is alive and well in the US--and I suspect all over the world.

Perhaps I'm missing it, but I wouldn't have thought London was a huge influence ... you certainly don't see any magazine articles about how to dress like an Englishwoman ...

Well there is some truth in the fact that what we like to think of as French style and what is actually out there on the streets of Paris are two different images. I do think London has its merits in terms of experimentation and adventurous sense of style where as Parisian style, though desirable leaves very little room for manouvre.

Ta-ta....I do agree with you about the 'mystique' of the French though - it is still very much influential IMO.

 

[mikevensel]

Lacroix is a top designer? He couldnt even handle Pucci so they fired him, how sad - he is aweful!

 

[helena]

Lacroix
Gaultier
Hedi
Ghesquiere

 

[mikevensel]

How many of you have actually been to Paris, worked in fashion in paris - know french designers - etc. I think you are basing alot of your ideas on what you think paris is - paris is very different on the inside than how it looks on the surface.

 

[helena]

he is aweful!

indeed....is that your foot you shot?