It is a difficult balance in fashion because making money in the industry is pretty difficult. There are many reasons even celebrities don't take risks and the whole 'What is she Thinking column' in magazines makes people think that seminal moments of irony (i.e. Bjork's swansong dress) are a bad idea and would make you a laughing stock. And there is also the mindset of middle-England, middle-America, middle-europe, middle-africa... that is the reason why the underground stays underground. The vast majority of people are inclined towards prettiness and sexiness, which is the ideal -their acessible escapism. Art can be about those things, but it can be about reality, about bleakness, about isolation. And plus, the fewer people wearing Hussein Chalayan the better. Firstly there would be wardrobe malfunctions all over town ('darling my bubbles are caught in your table leg'), and secondly, such realms of imagination are left only to the people who care -us. Anyway to answer the thread title -Cavalli, Scott Henshall, Versace (most Italian labels with the exception of maybe Armani), and that is not even starting with the Americans such as Baby Phat because that just goes without saying...