Yohji Yamamoto F/W 2025.26 Paris

[Cocteau Stone]

We would dye sample silks at my old work that created that viciously jewel toned 80s violet/purple. It's rather beautiful as a colour, as it's so electrifying, but it is so peculiar to work with. All it makes me think of is the works of Serge Lutens and sketches by Yoshitaka Amano. It's an uncanny surreal shade, vibrating with something that piques the senses but detests the contemporary.

Very monastic shapes. Not my favourite collection from him, but the drapery and textures are rather sublime. And this is some gorgeous jewellery too!!!

 

[runner]

it seems that there's a bit of limi feu mixed in here.


fashionsnap

 

[runner]

the last scene might be mainly about sisterhood/solidarity/IWD. but it can't help alluding to generation change, when you think about this show including limi looks.

the song used there, covered by YY, is created by miyumi nakajima. he is her fan.


miyuki.jp
"because people only continue asking until they hear the answer they want.
my friend, tell me eternal lies, don't ever reveal the truth."

 

[runner]

yyriefe

 

[runner]

so here is yohji telling her an "eternal lie".

 

[runner]

anyway, just remembered mallarme called redon's black "royal as purple".

 

[softgrey]

I confess that purple was my fave color as a teen...
my bedroom had a light purple carpet...
someone in HS once bet me that I could not go a day without wearing something purple...lol...
I failed because I forgot and put on a purple/fuschia hoodie after being so careful not to wear anything else purple...


purple becomes harder and harder to wear as an adult, as so many have mentioned and I agree...

 

[runner]

I associate that purple with harajuku in the 80's.
btw, when you are dressed in kimono, purple still is not so eccentric.
according to shuzo kuki who talked about iki (which must be related to yohji's aesthetic vision),
"Among purples, edo murasaki ‘bluish purple’ is considered to embody iki more than kyō murasaki ‘reddish purple’. "
(edo=tokyo, kyo=kyoto)



1000ya
amazon

 

[softgrey]

^^
I can verify that a purple kimono works really well...
I got two special silk kimono in Tokyo...
both purple tones...

 

[two months off]

I adore purple. Has been my favorite color since birth. This one is a little too electric, but with a bit more saturation it's my favorite shade. I also like the 80s vibes happening here and the nice draping. Interesting collection.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

i too had a purple bedroom in my teens (well, purple bedding & walls -- with a white shag carpet.

i almost never wear / wore that colour though; more like yohji's collections overall, i tend to live in blacks and neutrals

 

[softgrey]

I mean- technically-
the coats are black with a purple lining which is completely wearable and super vampire-y...

🏴

@Not Plain Jane -- my carpet was also shag...
all the walls and furniture were white...
w/rainbow bedding...LOL...

 

[JohannesL]

I associate that purple with harajuku in the 80's.
btw, when you are dressed in kimono, purple still is not so eccentric.
according to shuzo kuki who talked about iki (which must be related to yohji's aesthetic vision),
"Among purples, edo murasaki ‘bluish purple’ is considered to embody iki more than kyō murasaki ‘reddish purple’. "
(edo=tokyo, kyo=kyoto)

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1000ya
amazon

It has also long been associated with royalty in other cultures. I remember watching those Silk Road documentaries where historians talked about the expensive and rare dyes needed to produce the color in the Persian and Byzantine Empires. But I do believe Yojhi was inspired by his own culture which I would associate with the famous novelist Murasaki Shikibu where her surname Murasaki means purple or violet in Japanese.

 

[runner]

^yes the color can often allude to something high, or the highest, best, etc, in japan as well.

Twelve Level Cap and Rank System - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

and it's interesting that we sometimes see cultural phase transitions in value. (like fables where the vulnerable convert into heroes)
so, for example, those biker girl gangs use it as something bad, depraved, etc. (probably since the 80's)



instyleagents
itmedia

 

[MulletProof]

^ yes! I cannot unsee ‘Heaven’s Gate purple’ now, that really scared the hell out of me as a child! thanks for the PTSD, Susse!

 

[runner]

eagleharborbooks

 

[90sfan]

Beautiful collection. I bought a dress last week in Paris. Incredible fit. Ahhhhhh bless him