Yohji Yamamoto F/W 2015.16 Paris

[Cosmic Voices]

I saw that pannier gown arrive and I genuinely lost my breath!
Utterly stunning collection.

 

[dancorpse]

He's the only one who can save the nowadays runway, as the fashion weeks are becoming worse and worse each season, we need artworks not only clothes.

 

[Vitamine W]

Beautiful dark poetry from Yohi. Its really the dark collections that save Paris for me this season, Demeulemeester, AFVandevorst and now Yohi. Stunning work.

 

[mistress_f]

hmmm...yes...
first time i've been attracted to velvet in ages...
the kimono sleeves also feel extremely modern and luxurious to me right now...

i know right? only Yohji could make me lust after velvet clothes. It looks so rich and soft and wonderful.

You know, it kinda feels like Renaissance-y, constricting clothes liberated, stripped away and made simpler. It has a remarkable element of freedom.

I see Renaissance paintings in the way the amazing drapings of the clothes and capes get hit by the light. It's just so perfect.

 

[fashion.fashoff]

like a bolt of lightning--incredible.

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

^^ no way, he wanted to! aren't his reds often a climax in his collections?

My critique is not about every other collection he's done. This thread is about F/W-15-16 and so is my comment.

 

[Scott]

talking about the velvet....the last time i feel yohji made velvet look this deliciously sublime was his autumn 99 collection. like that collection it also felt incredibly snuggly but elegant. kind of nostalgic in a way but shows how timeless his work is. still remember those maggie rizer ads shot by inez and vinoodh.

 

[softgrey]

the more i look at it the more i am charmed by details...
and my limited understanding of japanese dress allows me to see little hints...

ie- the thong sandals reminiscent of the traditional geta sandals worn with kimono...
here they are shown with 'peds'- western socks traditionally worn with sneakers...

with a nod to traditional japanese dress as well as the supremely successful Y-3 collaboration...
yohji reminds us that he is the innovator in this field...

 

[Fiercification]

Magical collection...it just builds in beauty towards the end; love the draped pieces at the end and the way he handles lace.

 

[softgrey]

i can't say enough about how much i love the kimono sleeves...
i've been quietly wishing to myself that he would work with them again...
it's been so long since he used them and this is like a dream come true...
i think some of them have hoods!

can't wait to see the video and the rear views...
...

i also find the mule/thong hybrids quite charming and unique...

 

[Bruce7Lee]

This has to be the best collection of the whole season.

 

[softgrey]

For all the parlance of garments being well constructed or deconstructed, you rarely hear them described as "under construction." But if anyone can transpose the tenuous beauty of unfinished buildings into clothes, Yohji Yamamoto seems the likely choice. The designer was uncharacteristically talkative today as he explained the reasoning behind this at times highly conceptual show. He mentioned wanting to create a collection for "real girls today," which, antithetically, meant thinking back centuries to ancient Greece and the idea that a draped piece of fabric could be simultaneously complete and incomplete. Then he set out to render the kimono less perfect, softening its rigidity while guarding the overall shape and elegant sleeves.

But Yamamoto also took a literal approach to his starting point with dresses propped over articulated frames, stretched like multi-planed canvases, and sagging like collapsed tents. The widest and weirdest of all resembled a liquid silver bedsheet, printed with a few giant green apples bearing visible bite marks. Let's just resist the temptation to apply feminist or biblical theory. In any case, each successive robe took this lineup further away from last season's overt sexiness, although Yamamoto insisted the collections represent two facets of the same girl.

Still images don't communicate the performance inherent to this collection, to say nothing of the piano score, dosed out in minimalist intervals. "I didn't want emotional music," said Yamamoto, "because the clothing itself is very emotional." And he was right, although it's difficult to pinpoint which emotion and at what moments it penetrated most. The brief infusion of color—a quartet of robes in violet, emerald, blue, and brick—was particularly striking, for no other reason than its randomness. Yamamoto may have said this collection was "under construction," but for Fall he built something very solid.

style.com

 

[softgrey]

Yohji Yamamoto RTW Fall 2015
By Jessica Iredale
Two ideas, incongruent but both from the core of Yohji Yamamoto’s aesthetic canon, composed the calm and raw lyricism of his fall collection. Dissonant beauty was conveyed at a predictable yet poetic down tempo. It was classic Yamamoto.

Yamamoto said backstage that his first thought was “one very simple outfit,” beginning from a single piece of fabric draped into robes that referenced ancient Oriental, Roman and Greek wardrobes, but most of all the designer’s own work. The look progressed from plain shirts with drooped kimono sleeves or long tails over cigarette pants to substantial robes in black lined with bright red, and earthy blankets with fringe trim. They captured elegance, austerity and serene comfort tinged with melancholy.

In contrasting construction but similar spirit came rough, contraptionlike skirts made from Perspex covered in silver leather for a metal effect. These were suspended from the body and were haphazardly covered in fabric. The first of this series looked like a wearable weather-beaten umbrella, while others brought to mind scaffolding. “When I look out around the city street, the under-construction building is always beautiful,” explained Yamamoto.

Before the show, Yamamoto’s longtime associate Irene Silvagni made a point of his being an artiste at work, his fertile creativity poured into the elaborate deconstruction zones. But there was also much in the way of merchandise: ribbed-knit dresses, a velvet shirt with a cutaway tail and matching cropped pants, any number of the wrapped toppers. The artist knows commerce, too.

wwd.com

 

[softgrey]

backstage...
building the dresses...


theupcoming.com

 

[softgrey]

YY at work...
theupcoming

 

[softgrey]

detail...
theupcoming

 

[StoneSkipper]

This has to be the best collection of the whole season.

I'd go so far as saying this is one of the best collections of the decade, in fact.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

oh... those backstage shots are wonderful!
and i hadn't thought about a half collapsed umbrella or "under construction" architecture, but those references ring true looking back on the collection.

 

[softgrey]

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[softgrey]

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