Yohji Yamamoto Menswear F/W 2025.26 Paris

Yohji at his best always created between that razor-sharp line of melancholy and romance. It's been too long since he's remembered this. And this offering is just depression as fashion; looking like Chinese/Korean POWs during the Japanese occupation, then the unfortunate inclusion of the uniforms of Siberian prisoners. The bulky Michelin man silhouettes; the prison-stripe pattern and sad charcoal, post-apocalyptic color-palette; the hobo layering; then an awkward interaction between the more experienced older model and the two very inexperienced boys trying to look like they care. I despise everything presented. Blasphemy I know.
 
All I can think of whenever I see a Yohji Yamamoto men’s collection as of the last few years is how much I would love to design Y’s for men / Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme - I have a sentimental soft spot for both collections, but can’t deny how much they need an overhaul at this point.
 
^^^ Yohji, just like Armani and Comme, are in desperate need of an overhaul to breathe new life to their same old same old routines. But then the rude reality of what’s happened to Prada/McQueen/Dries and so many other once great labels with an “overhaul”, and maybe these living fashion legends must never hand over their names—even to a trusted lifelong team member, and just keep it all to themselves until their very last breath.
 
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That’s just what happens when you get old. You slow down and eventually die. Not to be bleak! But it just is what it is. You can’t be “great” in the moment forever, and that is okay! Nothing lasts forever.
 
If i wanted a great puffer coat, i would just go to The North Face or Helly Hensen.

This is not great, but at least you could feel a sense of design - rather than just a bunch of styling gimmicks, or patched together references to other designers.
 
^^^ Yohji, just like Armani and Comme, are in desperate need of an overhaul to breathe new life to their same old same old routines. But then the rude reality of what’s happened to Prada/McQueen/Dries and so many other once great labels with an “overhaul”, and maybe these living fashion legends must never hand over their names—even to a trusted lifelong team member, and just keep it all to themselves until their very last breath.

I had my formative years in the fashion industry buying several Yohji Yamamoto lines for a boutique, so it feels like a house with an intimate connection that never quite vanished over the years - The cuts, the fabrics, the feel of wearing these clothes that you understand intuitively.

The core of the brand remains a beautiful one and I hope the spirit of the house is preserved when one day Yohji decides to retire - To ensure it doesn’t go down the same route as Jil Sander, Helmut Lang or Maison Martin Margiela.
 
Yohji at his best always created between that razor-sharp line of melancholy and romance. It's been too long since he's remembered this. And this offering is just depression as fashion; looking like Chinese/Korean POWs during the Japanese occupation, then the unfortunate inclusion of the uniforms of Siberian prisoners. The bulky Michelin man silhouettes; the prison-stripe pattern and sad charcoal, post-apocalyptic color-palette; the hobo layering; then an awkward interaction between the more experienced older model and the two very inexperienced boys trying to look like they care. I despise everything presented. Blasphemy I know.
100%!! WE ARE IN SIBERIA! NY is clearly in his thoughts. Just 20 minutes ago I was wondering if I'd ever feel my left hand again. We all either look like Michelin men or fast food mascots. I know you're not impressed because 🇨🇦 or whatever but some of us are in pain right now! I'd buy everything here and date anyone who showed up dressed like this lol, just give me anything extra padded..

If i wanted a great puffer coat, i would just go to The North Face
These are exclusively worn by 19 year olds here, I cannot imagine turning up anywhere in TNF. This yummy, shiny green though? 🤌
yohji1.jpg
 
New York has been 10 degrees this whole week and my two wool coats from him aren’t working well enough. While this show isn’t really good as a show, there’s some great coats here for Yohji customers who might otherwise get a Moncler, Canada Goose, or Moose Knuckles coat. Y-3 doesn’t even have a good winter coat out this season so this collection fills a void.
 
It looks unexpectedly and significantly like a desaturated Moncler Gamme Bleu (cf. Fall 2013 in particular) ... but Thom's layered, quilted wool-flannel winter tailoring was more convincing, more joyful and more desirable. This feels phoned in and kind of sullen.
 

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