Yohji Yamamoto S/S 2024 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[gallianostan]

beautiful, as ever. a precious jewel in a sea of sh*t.

 

[thiago:)]

This particular look is to die for.

 

[dancv]

The kind of work only a master can produce. Bravo.

 

[Overindulgence]

What everyone else has already said - genius. The way he comes out with silhouettes that are both refreshing and relevant each season, it's quite amazing.

 

[jeanclaude]

This trip into gothic territory suits him well! I would remove the polka-dot section though...

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Gorgeous as always. And very calming, particularly compared to what the fashion month has been giving to us.

Love those opening jackets with the ivory sleeves and the gothic-lolita polka dots (which kind of look like the moon) for a strange dose of lightness.

 

[NoAdvertising71]

I don't think I've EVER disliked a collection from Yohji.....until now.

The man is untouchable. Far and very few fashion designers out there....could only dream of having as much vision...talent....or skill as Yohji. He's in a league....all to his own. I'm 52 years old. I've been following Yohji ....right from the beginning of his career and he' barely ever disappoints.

Without a doubt.. as I look through all the individual pieces.....especially their contruction....they're absolutely beautiful....but??

There just seems to be...a messy- ness going on. The collection seems a bit messy. ..which it totally unusual from Yohji.

No disrespect to his genius. It would break my heart if he found my critique as insult.

Im just not feeling this particular collection. Extremely rare of me.

Sorry, Yohji......but big hugs, just the same.

 

[NoAdvertising71]

I also need to add.. ...

Yohji is the type of designer....where it isn't so much sbout what he shows in his collections.....he's the type of designer where you can almost FEEL what he's trying to stay through clothing.

I've seen collections by Yohji that have literally.....literally......made me weep.

I think with Yohji....most....if not all of...his collections.. are very personal.

Other designers come across as either angry at the world.....defiant.....or too avant gardge to even comprehend. As though they're trying too hard to be different or out of the ordinary.....just for the sake of publicity or notoriety.

Yohji is.....and will probably always be....modest and humble. The man is light year beyond talented....but you almost get the sense that his talent is something he's very aware of. He's never been a designer who toots his own horn....or throws something down the runway just for shock value.

I don't know how else to explain Yohji....but?? ....I'm always left with the impression that he genuinely loves what he does.

 

[tricotineacetat]

You can never go wrong with the last section of simple, long dresses that are classically Yohji - Elegant but also effortless to wear, which is the kind of dressing he will be remembered for, once he decides to quit designing.

Then there is a whole lot of experimental ideas that leave me scratching my head... with all these artful gathers and asymmetrically trailing fabric bits, I usually pass watching, to me that's always been a territory of dressing for noone but the most devoted fans of the Japanese.

In hindsight, I feel Yohji's best collections date back to the early 2000s, around the time when he showed on the Couture calendar - Shows like the beautiful Madame Grès-inspired summer collection come to mind, undoubtedly one that will go down in history as one of his best ones of his career. There was something much more precise about how the outfits came together with the focal point on one ingeniously crafted piece whereas in recent years, a lot of collections seem more like a "beautiful chaos".

 

[Cocteau Stone]

^ A fair point. Fall 2000 with the dalliances in paisley, burnt orange fur and the beautiful use of padded forms and wadding always hits me in the heart.

There is something enjoyable with all the “chaos” because it’s at least honest. More specificity would be nice, or at least a stronger commitment to the experiments to make them hit home a little better.

I wonder if this is his way of having fun with the work and seizing the opportunity to reap benefits of his success? With all the diffusions, it must be a huge relief in a way to allow the mainline to be a little more “chaotic” creatively.

 

[bc collector]

All right all right...I'll be the black sheep here.
I stopped following Yohji a few years ago already. When I say following, I mean following with real interest, with a sense of expectation. I have no expectations about Yohji's work because I kind of know what he will do, more or less, season after season. He belongs to the same league of Armani or Alaïa, but unlike those, I find that his work sometimes verges on the belaboured, the overwrought.
I miss the late '90s, early aughts Yohji, whose work seemed to me more focused, more streamlined, fresher and less stuck in a fixed vocabulary.Possibly, the financial difficulties his company went through took a toll on his creativity and the world, we all know, went farther and farther from his sensibility.
It's interesting to compare his trajectory to that of his contemporary Rei: she took an even more radical approach than before in her work - radical not to say bonkers - but in a way her stance is more political than Yohji's, more polemic towards the current state of the fashion world. Her work is visually more engaging, for better or for worse (and I say this missing the old Rei as well).
Yohji has retreated in his repertoire, in the exercise of his technical mastery, tweaking things here and there but never really saying anything new. People always use the word poetic when they refer to Yamamoto, a word that is often used in a very generic way in fashion lingo. I just find his creativity a bit sterile at this point.

 

[runner]

....which it totally unusual from Yohji.

his mother passed away this year.
in the wenders film, in the atelier group scene, it is visible that her presence is something.


"Objective is the fractured landscape, subjective the light in which—alone—it glows into life. He does not bring about their harmonious synthesis. As the power of dissociation, he tears them apart in time, in order perhaps, to preserve them for the eternal. In the history of art, late works are the catastrophes."

adorno

 

[Not Plain Jane]

oh god... a god
i really love the buttoned up looks
and the party dresses
and that low-slung, high slit skirt, with patterned leggings underneath,
everything!

 

[MulletProof]

his mother passed away this year.
in the wenders film, in the atelier group scene, it is visible that her presence is something.

I remember that scene . He always spoke wonders about his mother and with such deep respect and affection, I've read countless interviews where he references her in different collections and he's a designer because of her. Sad but she must've been well over 100 so she finally got to rest (she had an exhausting life as a single mother/widow and running her own business after the war from what I recall). I didn't feel much looking at this collection yesterday but it definitely changes the way you look at it knowing that he's navigating loss.

 

[runner]

^ probably just a coincidence. but in the group photo, she is the brightest of the team. he has to be a light source himself like deep sea creatures in the darkness.

 

[runner]

YY subtle doppler effect
coming is one thing and going is another.












fashionpress

 

[90sFan]

Bless him!!