Yohji Yamamoto

[nqth]

Originally posted by Lena@Feb 6th, 2004 - 9:05 pm

check the market out next time you are in Paris

Oh yes, I will :-)

I also ran a search through out all second hand shops in Berlin two year ago. No Comme there tho :-))

 

[Spacemiu]

Originally posted by nqth+Feb 6th, 2004 - 1:14 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(nqth @ Feb 6th, 2004 - 1:14 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-softgrey@Feb 6th, 2004 - 1:22 pm
I have one white dress from last s/s that I have never been able to bring myself to walk out of the house in...still has the tags on...and it cost a fortune...but i love it and i will wear it eventually...when the time is right.

You are welcome :-)

I acctually saw 1 woman in Paris wearing a olive Comme trouser from that SS 03 collection :-), walking proudly in St. Honore in the morning :-). But I was there between flights for a few hours only. That collection was lovely.

Btw there is an interesting art. about "money kills avant gard" in FT:

http://news.ft.com/servlet/ContentServer?p...d=1075982319302 [/b][/quote]
amazinga rticle, very true , thank you

 

[faust]

Originally posted by nqth+Feb 6th, 2004 - 8:25 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(nqth @ Feb 6th, 2004 - 8:25 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-Lena@Feb 6th, 2004 - 11:14 am
you should see people outside the Japan cdg, johji's shops when the collections arrive... they wait all night in order to be there first when doors open next morning

and of course for some of us a 600 pair trousers might be a lot but for some its ..cheap

They have great customer service in Japan. My friend bought a small perfume for me one day and after a month a SA person still remembered him (buying a gift). The shop also called :-) and invited him when new things arrived :-)

I wonder where did you get the CdG's T for 1 euro, Lena. Lucky you :-) [/b][/quote]
Can't say the same about CdG customer service in their NYC boutique. I bought a sweater there, which pulled after first time I wore it. I brought it back wanting either the same sweater or a store credit, and they told me it's my fault. I was like, all right, you know you are not the only store that carries CdG.

Most of the times I try to support small store in NYC by buying from them, but I must admit, it's much more comortable buying in Barneys, because you would never get that kind of treatment from a big department store...

 

[gius]

early 90's coat

I thought I'd post this here
Only labelled "early 90's"
from metmuseum.org
gift of Minori Shironishi

It is a Black felted wool with gold metallic hand-painted surface decoration and brass plate appliqué.

Yamamoto enjoys inserting adjustable straps into the sleeves, neckline, and even body of many of his garments. Often placed conveniently to draw in expanses of widely cut fabric, these straps manipulate the dimensionality of the piece and reference early methods of clothes binding. This coat, with its demure turned-down collar and large circular cut, recalls the simple shapes of 1960s Western-tailored garments. The inherently graceful shape is offset by buckled straps at wrist and collar, themselves comparable to the bodice or jodhpur closures in historic sport or traveling costume.
Yamamoto enlivens the black canvas of this somber black felted wool with reflective brass rectangles and abstract strokes of gilded paint. Though ornamentation of the collar and center front bodice is traditionally found in the brocaded silks of the Japanese kimono and its obi and the silk floss embroidery of various Chinese cheongsam designs, Yamamoto here seems to be referencing ideologies of twentieth-century Western art. The broken application of these gilded shapes creates a Cubist planar composition, which, conflated with the modular shape, fosters a succinct aesthetic. The addition of bas-relief brass plates juxtaposed with flat paint provides a Surrealist element, enhanced by a morbid cracked-mirror allusion used repeatedly by Salvador Dalí and manipulated by Elsa Schiaparelli in a late 1930s evening jacket design.

 

[apolline]

yohji's y-3 line is very simplistic to the extent of blandness
y's is slightly better but again its unremarkable
im not familiar with his other stuff though

i do agree though rei kawabuko's stuff is unwearable. except the generic comme des garcons tshirts..

 

[luckyme]

Misa Magic

Dazed Digital shoots milliner Misa Harada's collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto's Red Label.

Text by Susie Bubble | Published 12 May 2009

Misa Harada is not at all new to the millinery scene having graduated from RCA in 1994 and cut her hat teeth working with British Royal appointed milliner Frederick Fox as well as collaborating with the likes of Thierry mugler and Katherine Hamnett. With her own collections in couture, luxury and commercial hats, Harada has proved she is well versed in many areas of millinery, enough to grab the attention of Yohji Yamamoto. For the second seson, Harada has designed the hats for Yohji's Red Label catwalk show which Dazed Digital have shot here.

Dazed Digital: How did the collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto come about?
Misa Harada: This is my second opportunity to collaborate with Yohji. We first worked together 2 years ago for their SS08 collection – they actually watched this TV documentary I did for a Japanese channel (all about surviving as a hat designer here in the UK) and gave me a call out of the blue! I was invited to their show in Paris to meet up and everything escalated from there. They are an absolute joy to work with, very understanding and respectful to my ideas and suggestions.

DD: Your millinery past has been quite wide ranging from designing for Royals, working on couture pieces and then doing more commercial ranges and working for different designers like Mugler, Hamnett and now Yohji - how would you describe the common Misa Harada signature in everything that you do?
Misa Harada: I graduated from RCA back in 1994 and became a designer for a Royal appointed millinery house, hence my training was strictly in haute couture. After 4 years of catering for such a niche market, I started to question how the future of Hat culture would be; back then the only hats worn by young people were baseball caps and Kangols. I wanted to create the hats which can appeal to young and trend conscious by using an element of couture technique. I think this is how my work has been, to introduce interesting and wearable hats to the world! till this day. I hope working with other catwalk designer will stimulate the market too.

DD: How do you feel about the resurgence of interest in millinery as apparel?
Misa Harada: Absolutely thrilled! This is what I always hoped and how I came to set up my own business – to raise an interest in millinery. A hat is the ultimate tool to make one truly individual.

CREDITS
Photography Neil Francis Dawson
Styling Anna Trevelyan
Hair Assistant Soichi Inagaki
Make Up Thomas de Kluyver using MAC Cosmetics
Models Petter @ D1 and Ludmilla @ Storm

Image 1
Ludmilla wears dress by Reem, feather neckpiece by Keko Hainswheeler.

Image 2
Ludmilla wears dress by Bora Aksu, scarab brooch by Mouton Collet.

Image 3
Petter wears oxidized tinsel collar, and station hardware necklace by Eddie Borgo, spiked necklace by Mouton Collet.

Image 4
Petter wears hair neckpiece by Keko Hainswheeler, jersey and bead necklace by Sonia Bischur.

Photography: Neil Francis Dawson, Styling: Anna Trevelyan. All Hats by Misa Harada.

 

[capt.charly]

Great, very interesting !!!!B) thanks for posting luckyme !!

 

[Drusilla_]

I think a lot of the perception that Comme/Yohji et al are 'weird' has to do with the way their clothes are styled and presented on the runway. Though even there, I've seen shows (like Yohji AW08-09) that had beautiful, wearable clothes that weren't all 'of the moment' or trendy (and therefore at risk of looking dated in a year). And Comme clothes in editorial photoshoots don't look quite as strange..

No major fashion house these days makes all or even the bulk of its money from the clothes, whether it's Louis Vuitton or Comme- maybe Lanvin does, I can't be sure. It's all about the perfumes and accessories (esp. handbags and shoes), and that's what makes the money. Comme, Yohji, et al, have majorly profitable collaboration lines and lots of merchandise to support their main business. And it works, Comme had a turnover of more than $180 million in 2008 according to the NYT. Ditto with Yohji's work for Y-3. It just frees them up a bit. And I have humongous respect for the fact that these designers have managed to stay afloat without giving in to the crassness of designing It-bags (CommexLV was hideous, but never positioned as It-bags), or turning into scary corporates like LVMH. Junya Watanabe or Tao Kurihara would never have the freedom they do if that was the conglomerate looking over their shoulder, and not Rei/Adrian Joffe.

EDIT: The Misa Harada hats are divine. Thanks for sharing!

 

[gius]

Thought I'd put this here.. No mention of the season

jetroor.org|

 

[jgyn]

I have to wait for a sale before I can afford Comme, Yohji, Issey, etc.. Oftimes the really 'out there' styles are still around while the classics sell out.

 

[lightningfields]

^ i find that too and i'm not complaining. i can't afford this stuff full price. ;____;

 

[gius]

There is a long listing on his collections, info on each going as far back as aw'87/88, written in this pdf. Individual pieces mentioned also -for anyone interested

Dreamshop: yohji yamamoto


7 March 2006 - 13 August 2006
This exhibition, about the work of the famous Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, was the last one of a triptych. The two previous exhibitions took place in 2005 in Florence (CORRESPONDENCES_YOHJI YAMAMOTO on the occasion of Pitti Immagine Uomo) and Paris (JUSTE DES VÊTEMENTS - Musée de la Mode et du Textile).
Catalogue
Yohji Yamamoto: an exhibition tryptich (Paris: The Press sarl, 2006 - 96 p. - ISBN 90-9020633-7 (English))
Downloads:

Visitor's guide Yohji Yamamoto [PDF] (pdf - 207kB)

momu.be

 

[eugenius]

Thanks for posting, gius..That pdf made for the best reading I've read all week..I think it would've been nice to have pictures of the garments to accompany the corresponding descriptions, but oh well--can't have everything in this world.

 

[gius]

You're welcome- I thought so too. Maybe they will post some pieces on this blog (posted from this thread). There are a few looks from the 90s at corbisimages:

s/s '93

s/s '98

I was surprised looking through what they have, that there's so much colour.

 

[runner]

F/ W 99

 

[runner]

F/ W 85

 

[runner]

S/ S 86

 

[runner]

F/ W 01

 

[runner]

F/ W 94

 

[runner]

F/ W 00