My favorites would have to be Haider Ackermann, Loewe, Saint Laurent, Nensi Dojaka's mini collection as part of Fashion East, Marc Jacobs and 3.1 Phillip Lim.
Givenchy and Saint Laurent were the biggest surprises of the season. Clare really stepped up her game. Perhaps the future of her job rested on her latest collection. It took her a while to get here, but it's better late than never. Saint Laurent was decadent and chic. It was the most YSL looking collection we have seen in years. Something snapped in Vaccarello as well. Fendi was perfection. Sylvia stayed loyal to the DNA set by Karl and put her own personality into it. I love her aesthetic. It's the kind of fashion I love and it's what I expect to see in Milan. Olivier Theyskens was beautiful. He was focused and confident. The collection was razor sharp. Overall this was a pretty decent season. Much better than the past couple of years. I'm always optimistic and any sign of change is always something to look forward to.
Best:
Area
Marc Jacobs
Fendi
Dolce & Gabbana
Olivier Theyskens
Saint Laurent
Givenchy
Miu Miu
My worst list is straight up sad. Just a little less then ten years ago almost all of these brands were at the top of the pack. They didn't have to rely on purchased press to stay relevant. Now it's just about pushing monogram bags, ramen noodle shoes, and even a faux feminist agenda. The times have changed and not for the better.
Worst:
Burberry
Versace
Bottega Veneta
Marni
Chloe
Dior
Celine
Chanel
Louis Vuitton
The best collection and show of the season was Marc Jacobs.
Firstly, because he’s caught the drift that over styled, over designed, tricky, sloppy, big clothes and accessories are done. He showed us such nice, neat, clean and sharp clothes that do not make a woman look like a fool.
Secondly, it’s because he put on a show that seemed to actually mean something...something deeper. I don’t think I’ve seen a fashion show in a long time that feels as richly nuanced as this one did.
It was a great return to form from Marc and I hope he is as inspired next season.
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Best
Haider Ackermann: Wearable, chic and timeless.
Olivier Theyskens: Once he stripped back all the bells and whistles, there only remains the mastery of his cutting and his eye for the smallest details. Fascinating.
Givenchy: Glamourous but realistic, wish she finally settled in this direction.
Dries Van Noten: A gaudy dream by a master of color, the hair and makeup were seriously good.
Lemaire: Clothes for the life I wish I lead.
Honorable Mentions
Sacai
Chloé
Louis Vuitton
Prada
Paco Rabanne
Yohji Yamamoto
Simone Rocha
Maison Margiela Worst
Marni: Revolting rags in disgusting colors. Trying too hard to be Junya.
Richard Quinn: Tasteless and poorly realized, every other brit talking about how "couture" it looked was just ludicrous.
Top 10:
01. Paco Rabanne
02. R13
03. Lemaire
04. Moncler Genius 8 - Richard Quinn
05. Gabriela Hearst
06. Area
07. Acne Studios
08. Marc Jacobs
09. Tod's
10. Ottolinger
Honorable Mentions: Fendi, Nina Ricci, Collina Strada, Saint Laurent, Emilia Wickstead
Bottom 10:
01. Baja East
02. Dior
03. Puppets and Puppets
04. Matty Bovan
05. Prabal Gurung
06. Tom Ford
07. Emilio Pucci x Koché
08. Louis Vuitton
09. Rick Owens
10. Alexander McQueen
Dishonorable Mention: Giambattista Valli
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