This exceptional cape from the House of Worth is from the period when
Jean-Philippe Worth was the head designer. The genealogy of the de Pourtales family and its connection with the famous Lodge family of Massachusetts are quite complicated, but I will do my best to outline the main points.
The House of Worth had Melanie, Countess de Pourtales, as one of its early clients during the late 1860s. A famous international beauty and member of the French Court, Melanie had all her gowns designed by Charles Worth. She was likely the muse of Charles Worth himself, according to oral tradition of the Lodge family. The cape was purchased from the estate of the Lodge family.
Here is the opening of a letter referring to the Countess Melanie and her husband the Count de Pourtales. I do not know the author or the intended recipient "M." in Cambridge, but the letter gives us a sense of the exclusive world of the A-listers at the top of Second Empire society in Paris.
PARIS, March, 1866.
DEAR M.,--I think of your sitting in your Cambridge home and reading this account of the frivolities of your daughter. Yesterday was Count Pourtales's birthday, and Prince Metternich thought out a wonderful scheme for a surprise for Count Pourtales and the rest of us. Princess Metternich and Countess Pourtales were the only ones taken into his confidence. There was a dinner at the Pourtales' in honor of the occasion, and the guests were Baron Alphonse Rothschild, Count and Countess Moltke, Prince Sagan, the Duke de Croy, and ourselves.
Thirty years later, the Countess Berthe de Pourtales makes her appearance in society. She was also a beautiful woman who loyally patronized the House of Worth in the later days of Charles Worth. The society column in
Le Gaulois, May 31, 1894 describes a literary party at Versailles—"...Countess de Pourtalès, wearing pearl gray taffeta, sprinkled with dark flowers, pale cuffs, her hat topped with a yellow aigrette..."
See the signed portrait of Berthe, Countess de Pourtales in one of her Worth gowns below.
Provenance: This cape belonged to Berthe, Countess de Pourtales. It was purchased from one of her descendents, a Mrs. Lodge of the famous Lodge family of Massachusetts. I am not certain of exact genealogy. However, the connection between the de Pourtales and the Lodge families is made specific by an article in the December,1934 issue of Photoplay magazine, referring to "Lily
de Pourtales Lodge and her father John Cabot Lodge..."
John Cabot Lodge came from the generation after the most famous Lodge of all. I refer of course to
Henry Cabot Lodge, not to be confused with his grandson, Henry Cabot Lodge, Jr., the Senator from Massachusetts, 1937-1953.
The cape is a marvelous confection of texture and color. The lively quality of the composition speaks to us across the ages. The bottom layer of velvet has enough yellow in the color to remain vibrant after being covered with the black tulle and lace.
The outer layer of fine black silk tulle is decorated with black cut-glass beads and sequins that sparkle as the light shifts. Interspersed throughout are appliqués of handmade
Point de Venise needle lace, which are embellished with black sequins.
The collar is also handmade needle lace. Rows of black silk ribbon ruching are used throughout the design. The lower edge of the cape is bound with green silk velvet and bordered with black lace ruffles. The cape is lined with emerald green satin.
The green velvet underlayer has an intensity which would be a tad too strong if the velvet were not under layers of tulle. But the color works perfectly under the tulle and lace. This cape came from the Worth atelier when Jean-Philippe was at the top of his form. He had perhaps a lighter touch than Charles. (Jean-Philippe had studied painting with Corot.)
Although the House of Worth was founded in 1858, we still sense the confident hand of a master designer at work in this cape—the subtlety of the masterful ornamentation is striking. What a contrast to the fashion scene today, when, within just a few years, we see rapid alternation between opposing camps—the decorators and the minimalists.
This brilliant cape displays the confidence and energy of the House that defined style for high society. In addition, the cape is a living piece of social history because of its connection to the de Pourtales and Lodge families. For both these reasons, I expect it to find a home with a museum or a major collection of high style clothing.
The condition is almost excellent. I found a few discrete mends in the coarse mesh that backs the lace ruffles. They do not show unless you turn up the ruffles and look for them.
The cape is 25" long at the center-back.
