Marcel Rochas was born in Paris, France in 1902. He opened his house in 1924. He was encouraged by Jean Cocteau, Christian Berard and Paul POIRET. He was a strong, influential designer with an international reputation, who anticipated many of the most prominent fashion trends of the 20th century.
During the 30's, Rochas started to create black and white dresses that featured a white collar. His creative innovations often featured a strong shoulder line. In 1933, his collection featured wide shoulders, a style generally attributed to SCHIAPARELLI. In 1931, Marcel ROCHAS opened his fashion house to the 12 Matignon avenue. His customers are composed, amongst other things, stars Hollywood such as Carole Lombard, Marlène Dietrich and among others. For the actress Mae West, Marcel Rochas have created a black wasp-waisted corset of Chantilly. It appeared that the shapes of the woman have inspired him for the creation of the bottle of perfume « FEMME ».
In 1935 the great fashion illustrator Cecil Beaton drew two Rochas gowns for Vogue. They show the typical thirties hem length at around mid calf, and the slinky silhouette so typical of the decade. He tried to show in his sketches, the luxurious fabrics and exquisite design which the house of Rochas was known for. Marcel favoured hourglass silhouettes and foreshadowed the new look of Dior, by showing longer skirts in 1941. He showed bustiers in 1943.
As the 20th century progressed, corsets got less restrictive. However in the 1940's a very small waist was again "de rigeur" to wear the fashions such as Dior's New Look. In 1945 Marcel Rochas introduced a long strapless brassierre/girdle which enclosed the hips. It was a foundation garment that was to train figures for a decade. It was in Europe and the United States, called the "Waspie". This was based on the very small waist a Wasp has. In France where it was introduced, this name was not used, it was called a "guepiere".
In the 50's, he transposed casual trousers into the context of women's suiting - another Rochas novelty.
Rochas often worked with flower-patterned fabrics. He promoted the three-quarter-length coat and was one of the first designers to feature pockets in skirts. Rochas also specialized in separates and accessories, which he sold from a boutique in his salon.
Marcel Rochas died in 1955
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