2010 CFDA Awards

[LolaSvelt]

The nominations have been announced.

Womenswear Designer of the Year:
Awarded to an American designer or a designer whose business is headquartered in the U.S. who has made the most outstanding contribution to and has influenced the direction of women’s ready-to-wear fashion with his or her Spring and Fall 2010 collections. The designer selected must have his or her business based primarily in America.
2010 Nominees:
Marc Jacobs
Donna Karan
Alexander Wang

Menswear Designer of the Year:
Awarded to an American designer or a designer whose business is headquartered in the U.S. who has made the most outstanding contribution to and has influenced the direction of men’s ready-to-wear fashion with his or her Spring and Fall 2010 collections. The designer selected must have his or her business based primarily in America.
2010 Nominees:
Michael Bastian
Tom Ford
Marcus Wainwright & David Neville for Rag & Bone

Accessory Designer of the Year:
Awarded to an American designer or a designer whose business is headquartered in the U.S. who has made the most outstanding contribution to and has influenced the direction of accessory design with his or her Spring and Fall 2010 collections. The designer selected must have his or her business based primarily in America.
2010 Nominees:
Alexis Bittar
Lazaro Hernandez & Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler
Marc Jacobs

Swarovski Award for Womenswear:
Awarded to an American designer or a designer whose business is headquartered in the U.S. who has made the greatest impact as an emerging new talent in womenswear design with his or her Spring and Fall 2010 collections. The Swarovski Awards, originally called Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Awards, were established to recognize and support the talent and creativity of the next generation of American designers. The designer selected must have his or her business based primarily in America.
2010 Nominees:
Joseph Altuzarra
Prabal Gurung
Jason Wu

Swarovski Award for Menswear:
Awarded to an American designer or a designer whose business is headquartered in the U.S. who has made the greatest impact as an emerging new talent in menswear design with his or her Spring and Fall 2010 collections. The Swarovski Awards, originally called Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Awards, were established to recognize and support the talent and creativity of the next generation of American designers. The designer selected must have his or her business based primarily in America.
2010 Nominees:
Richard Chai
Patrik Ervell
Simon Spurr

Swarovski Award for Accessory Design:
Awarded to an American designer or a designer whose business is headquartered in the U.S. who has made the greatest impact as an emerging new talent in accessory design with his or her Spring and Fall 2010 collections. The Swarovski Awards, originally called Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Awards, were established to recognize and support the talent and creativity of the next generation of American designers. The designer selected must have his or her business based primarily in America.
2010 Nominees:
Eddie Borgo
Dana Lorenz
Alexander Wang
HONOREE AWARDS:

Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award:
Awarded for a lifetime of consistent, creative influence and dedication to fashion.
2010 Honoree: Michael Kors

Eugenia Sheppard Award:
Awarded to a writer, photographer, or editor who has used his or her craft to further the profession of fashion reporting and coverage, or to a creative director, fashion editor, stylist, or artist whose exceptional creativity has shaped fashion visually.
2010 Honoree: Kim Hastreiter, Paper

International Award:
Awarded to a designer working outside of America who has made an outstanding creative contribution to the world of fashion.
2010 Honoree: Christopher Bailey for Burberry

Board of Directors’ Special Tribute:
A special tribute by the Board of Directors of the CFDA, given from time to time to acknowledge significant contributions and commitment to fashion.
2010 Honoree: Alexander McQueen

Fashion Icon Award:
Awarded to an individual whose signature style has had a profound influence on fashion.
2010 Honoree: Iman

Eleanor Lambert Award:
Awarded for a unique contribution to the world of fashion.
2010 Honoree: Tonne Goodman, Vogue

Ernst & Young LLP is the official accounting firm of the 2010 CFDA Fashion Awards.

I know this is an award show for American designers, but there is only so much you award them. Maybe if it was an international award, the nominations would be interesting. The fact that Michael Kors is getting a lifetime achievement supports this. Where is Rodarte, anyway? Easily two of the best American designers and no nomination?!

The only thing that excites me is the actual show and which of my favourite stylish celebrities will be there in attendance.

 

[ALAUU]

to be fair, I think that Michael Kors really embodies American sportswear. But, I do agree that the nominees are getting repetitive. It's the same ones getting the nominations/awards every year.

 

[Meg]

I agree - I don't think Jason Wu should be considered an emerging talent to the same extent that Altazurra and Prabal Gurung are. It makes sense in my mind that Michael Kors should get a lifetime achievement award - he really has defined American sportswear and I still love a lot of what he puts out. It's just not very exciting when it's the same handful of people....

 

[Mathewthew]

No Rodarte et Proenza S ?!
I love there collection.....

 

[simons]

patrik ervell! his fall 2010 was so good.

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

The only one that makes sense for me is Proenza being a nominee for accessory designer of the year. I think their accessories for both SS10 & FW10 are just so luxe and desirable and they're easily becoming some of the most lust worthy accessories to me.

 

[Scott]

i agree meg. granted it's been a quick push to the fore but he is still more established than the other nominees. would have loved to see ohne titel or rad hourani in that position.

chris bailey though? of all that could have been chosen? and i really wish they would make that a real category rather than just some honour. for a awards ceremony honouring such an international industry they could make that part of the whole ceremony,imo.

big congrats though to kim hastreiter...she's been writing at paper for such a long time....she is one of the ultimate NYC underground veteran/icon's other than her co-worker lynn yaeger.

 

[FashionPower]

Such a bland list,of couse MJ is gonna win both accessories and womenswear awards
I hate how american fashion is SO focused on money and business,they always put the designer that sells more and get more press coverage,they really don't care about the individual collections or the quality of clothing

 

[asta]

Proenza won 2 years ago in the designer of the year category and Rodarte won last year. Maybe the Cfda doesn't want to nominate the same people that have won before?

 

[ponytrot]

GOD. What a boring list.

How bland - like much of the stiff, retrogrades over in US fashion.

 

[Caffeine]

not sure how many people have seen Rodarte's work in real life. I've seen a few pieces at Barneys and I was very underwhelmed.
Give me a simple sheath and some pieces of whatever leftover leather or chiffon to sew over the sheath. That's Rodarte. And those pieces were sold for over $10,000. Don't call it American design please. It's called hype and major ripoff.

 

[Scott]

if it were up to me(perhaps others?)the womenswear would certainly be different. perhaps they should just call it the 'hyped established designer's award' because that's all they seem to nominate...if not porenza,wang or rodarte it's the old reliables....

i've seen a few designers that have been worlds better than any of those mentioned,even rodarte. gary graham,threeasfour,ohne titel(as mentioned),matthew ames,VPL,robert geller(men),rad hourani,doo.ri,zero maria cornejo etc.....smaller they may be but they do still have an impact on the NYC fashion industry. to me they are the reason many are even still interested in NY fashion. i just think the system should open itself more and recognise not only the hierarchy but those that don't have all the accolades and the stamps of approval from vogue etc. they're just not conscious of what they have as a whole.

 

[mikeijames]

alexander wang certainly has friends in high places, doesn't he?

 

[Mutterlein]

alexander wang certainly has friends in high places, doesn't he?

You have to wonder for all the people that wrote his name in on the ballot, how many of them actually wear his clothes? Don't they know that his fabrics are awful and that the seams fall apart? My poor girlfriend had her sweater fall apart at the seams and unravel through the course of a party. She had just bought the piece earlier that day. A girl I know who works at a prominent downtown boutique that sells a high volume of Alex has a side responsibility doing repairs on Wang's clothes that fall apart...on the hanger!

 

[Mutterlein]

if it were up to me(perhaps others?)the womenswear would certainly be different. perhaps they should just call it the 'hyped established designer's award' because that's all they seem to nominate...if not porenza,wang or rodarte it's the old reliables....

i've seen a few designers that have been worlds better than any of those mentioned,even rodarte. gary graham,threeasfour,ohne titel(as mentioned),matthew ames,VPL,robert geller(men),rad hourani,doo.ri,zero maria cornejo etc.....smaller they may be but they do still have an impact on the NYC fashion industry. to me they are the reason many are even still interested in NY fashion. i just think the system should open itself more and recognise not only the hierarchy but those that don't have all the accolades and the stamps of approval from vogue etc. they're just not conscious of what they have as a whole.

Preaching the gospel!!!!

 

[STYLEOClDE]

GOD. What a boring list.

*Nods.

 

[Leeroi]

Wintour lovers her some Alexander Wang and Jason Wu, so it isn't surprising that they're on the list.

 

[Scott]

did anybody catch paper mag's kim hastreiter's acceptance speech? all i can say is...ballsy and honest

Kim Hastreiter accepted the CFDA Eugenia Sheppard Award last night at the CFDA Awards and her speech, which re-iterated her long-held belief that "just because you're cute, connected, rich, or famous, doesn't necessarily mean you design great stuff," was a hit. Kim's words have gotten a mention in the New York Times as well as kudos from New York, Fashionista and Gwyneth Paltrow, who turned to Kim last night and told her the award acceptance was "punk rock." PAPER couldn't be prouder, and we've printed the whole
speech below.

Although I'm not the usual suspect for receiving a fashion award like this, I want to thank the CFDA for this honor and especially for recognizing that alternative thinking has value.

I've always been an outsider not only to the fashion industry, but in the other worlds I inhabit, from art to design to magazines. My passion is culture creation and this is what we do at PAPER, which we started 26 years ago at my kitchen table -- and we're still miraculously, "owner-operated" today.

My wonderful longtime partner David Hershkovits always says that we at PAPER live in a parallel universe...and so we create our own little utopian business where conforming to standard operating procedures is not required. We've always approached most of what we do sideways and from outside the box -- with a collective team of unique, dedicated and loyal talents... like-minded people that share our love and enthusiasm for exploring, discovering, and documenting that exciting cultural universe that bubbles below the radar.

I share this award with team PAPER, but I'd also like to share it with other outsiders -- independent thinkers who inspire me and are not the usual suspects either. Because they are the catalysts for breaking new ground in the inseparable culture of where design, art, fashion, and style come from, and come together.

From the pure American genius of the late Geoffrey Beene, Charles James and Claire McCardell to the greatest of American designers who, although not always hyped, will end up in the history books for sure like Isabel Toledo and Ted Muehling.

Like the tenacious "I do it my way" outsiders Norma Kamali, or the late Stephen Sprouse, shy fashion thinkers Martin Margiela and Rei Kawakubo or independents who avoid hype and consistently create original and great work like Maria Cornejo, Tess Giberson or Ohne Titel.

Then there are the radical wild children who tenaciously test the limits of fashion like threeASFOUR and Boudicca, or outrageous style mixmasters like Anna Piaggi or the late Isabella Blow. Even brilliant artists and cultural provocateurs like Banksy and Jeffrey Deitch or visionary communicators like Jean Paul Goude or the amazing Bill Cunningham.

Finally to all those who inadvertently give us style inspiration that is so often "Better than fashion." Those outrageous manicure artists from Queens or the over-the-top hair performers from Detroit. The extraordinary House Ball competitors of Harlem, the clowny Krumpers or the tattooed Chollos of South Central LA.. Even the preppie wasps from Nantucket or the surf and skate kids from the OC.

I hope the fashion world continues to look beyond the usual suspects. Just because you're cute, connected, rich, or famous, doesn't necessarily mean you design great stuff. I also wouldn't put too much stock into this "one day your in- the next day you're out" business. How you can be a genius today but next year you're not because you're "off trend?"

That said, I may continue to be a slightly thorny guest in this industry, but I'll always adore and celebrate great fashion and the tidal waves that precede and follow it, so thank you again for honoring me and inviting me to such a fun party.


Photo by Patrick McMullan

This story was published on Jun. 8, 2010

papermag.com

 

[InnocentSuccubus]

GREAT SPEECH. Someone needed to SAY it!!!
Thanks for posting.
This also made me smile

dailyfrontrow.com
One CFDA member told Chic why she didn't vote for Joseph Altuzarra for the CFDA's Swarovski Award for Womenswear: "He's talented, but in my book his last collection was a direct knockoff of Tom Ford's Fall 2003 show for Gucci." Divine inspiration or something too...literal? We report, you decide, Carine will disagree—but in any case, check out the entire collection here.

 

[XxXRedRubYXxX]

Amazing, amazing speech. It kind of sickens me that she's soon point with how the fashion industry is..