Yankees Doodling Dandily
By Eric Wilson
Published: June 17, 2009
COMING out this week, the ninth issue of A Magazine, the austerely titled Belgian fashion publication that is guest edited by a different designer each season, happens to be the first created under the direction of an American designer — or, in this case, two.
This is a distinction that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler proudly note in the pages of their magazine, practically bursting with firecrackers, even though the increasingly globalized fashion world might react with a shrug.
The previous issues have all been edited by designers who show their collections in Paris, including Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela and Riccardo Tisci, without any fanfare about their respective Japanese, Belgian or Italian nationalities. So what does it matter to be an American designer today?
“We know this is a magazine that appeals to predominantly an art or fashion crowd, people who have been there, done that,” Mr. Hernandez said. “But we wanted to show a facet of America that hasn’t been showcased before.”
Their magazine includes features about American photographers both well known, like Bru
ce Weber, and underappreciated, like the late Jimmy DeSana. There are tributes to land art installations and Marfa, Tex.; a pencil drawing of Abraham Lincoln Abraham Lincoln by Mathew Cerletty; and, on the cover, a portrait of Chloë Sevigny with stars on her face and red and white eyeliner that appears inspired by Old Glory.
“When we were asked to do this, it happened to be during the election, when America was having, for lack of a better word, a revolutionary moment,” Mr. Hernandez said. “It was so cool to be American.”
At the same time, the process of editing, assigning photographers and coordinating photo shoots with no budget gave the designers an appreciation for the collaborative elements of magazines, as their past collections were reinterpreted, interestingly enough, by an international cast of photographers and stylists.
“Lazaro and I, for the most part, just talk to each other in the studio,” Mr. McCollough said. “Putting together a magazine is a lot more social.”