Alaïa S/S 2024 Paris

[LadyJunon]

First look at Alaïa's Winter-Spring collection:

 

[LadyJunon]

 

[TianCouture]

im sorry but some of this looks straight out of Nicola Formichetti's Mugler mess

 

[LadyJunon]

The show soundtrack:

The show video will be posted tomorrow.

 

[LadyJunon]

More from the show:

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

HORRIBLE.

I wish Naomi could read that stupid collection that disrespects the heritage of her "papa".
It has been said before, but Mulier's vision lacks of sensuality, generosity and kindness. The oriental sensuality will never be part of his DNA.

It's too cold and sex oriented in an awkward way.

Azzedine loved women and treated them with respect and dignity, even with a cut-out bondage dress.
Mulier just plays with lifesize Barbies I guess, dressing models in something he thinks is "cool" and "desirable" when those poor models look like fetishized dolls.

 

[LadyJunon]

 

[LadyJunon]

I really like this collection, but it's too austere and sparse for Alaïa. It's needs romance, intimacy and gentleness in it. The latex was interesting, but it was a few too many looks.

The Couture-adjacent January/July schedule seems to be doing quite well for Alaïa. My guess is that they have an advantage of standing out from the typical ready-to-wear crowd for press and by having a longer production timeframe for buyers.

 

[Urban Stylin]

I like the more sophisticated looks but some of them look a little too off brand.

 

[Tchi]

Waiting to see the whole show, I can’t really say much from these snippets, a part from the fact that I won’t attempt the passerelle in heels in the future

 

[avonlea002]

I like what I am seeing but it has nothing to do with Alaia.

 

[Norden]

I feel that latex is out of place. Some of it is good tho, the simple looks really work. That red dress is beautiful.

 

[LadyJunon]

The full collection walkthrough:


Some more individual walks:



The shoes:


Backstage shots:


Suzy Menkes' mini interview:

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Peter Mulier's face makes me so glad I quit smoking. Dude looks like 50 going on 75.

Anyways, the latex pieces are dumb. Transparent leather would be so much better (Dior SS 04).

The rest is pretty mediocre.

 

[MulletProof]

^ lol. He looks a bit like Jeff Goldblum there.. who is 70. Seriously it's not even about cancer or death rates (who cares, the less the better) but how, when you least expect it, the chainsmoker lifestyle takes from looking your age to looking like a 17th miner who's had the toughest life. Now with all this Phoebe/Daria talk, I pray to god girl's quit it because.. the stans will have a rude awakening.

Kind of immune to the collection because.. immune to this house?, but.. some of these models are either really good or plain terrible! you just need to look at Irina and pretend you're Irina, that's all, the posture of some of these girls is just terrible and makes some of the clothes look even worse.

 

[LadyJunon]

A few more issues I have with the show:

• A lot of the shoes here seem to be too big, they seem to be struggling to keep the shoes from falling off their feet. Alaïa is known for their somewhat weird heels like the Sculpture and the Cabaret, but the models seem to be able to walk in those with no issues.
• There was a lack of interesting shoes too. Normally Mulier excels in that department, but here, we only got mule clogs and court shoes. The black slashed over-the-knee boots paired with the white body were interesting. He should've furthered that idea.
• Everything that isn't black looks a bit "sickly". Maybe this is because of the changing lighting and the simple fact that an Instagram reel isn't the same as an official video with a Betak-directed-production behind it
• The lack of actual eveningwear and full-length gowns made the whole show feel anticlimactic and too casual for Alaïa. Dropping one or two of the hemlines to the floor and adding a train would've easily solved that issue.
• There was one minor issue with a model having her dress strap fall off her shoulder. While the issue itself is microscopic, I worry that it might be a prelude to larger construction issues in the future.

 

[LadyJunon]

Last post of the night, screenshots from @jvbcom's Instagram story:

 

[Yasouss]

Watching the video of the models walking at the end really took away from the sexiness that this show is trying to convey. If they are not comfortable in the shoes you designed, they won't exude this sexiness you are trying and failing to portray. It all looks so cold and devoid of any warmth and humour that makes it enjoyable. Alaïa or not, it feels clinical.

 

[WAVES]

it lacks cohesion. there are some interesting looks definitely and the latex ones are great. Pieter made it look almost flowy and the see-through gave the pieces elegance.

also, feels weird to have a Winter/ Spring show but it’s the only way to explain the looks of models dressed head to toe in leather trench-coats fully covered and models with sleek, light long dresses.

felt a bit like they used 3 or 4 different mood boards.

the casting was good, love to see Elise and Vittoria.

some shoes seemed uncomfortable (Adowa’s walk?!) and the way the collection was presented was messy (felt like 3 in 1!)

an elegant black carpet all over the bridge for the models to walk on would’ve helped for sure with those high heeled shoes and elevated the glamour/ luxury factor.
why can’t these people think??

slightly off topic: I do need a visit to the Alaïa archives. to which I hope Pieter is also going. there are some references but he can make better. I feel an improvement so fingers crossed. I would love Alaïa’s heritage to be back so I’m gunning for Pieter (for now).

 

[reese06]

I'm eager to see the official video and images because at the moment it feels all over the place and leaves me feeling "uneasy".