Alaïa S/S 2024 Paris

[Kennnnn]

This really reminds me of Vuitton fall 2011. It doesn't make a great first impression, but I am excited to see the full show. As an aside, damn I really need to quit smoking too.

 

[FashionFanatico]

Love the look on Lulu!
The latex coats are great too. They seem so light and breezy.
I admit that i have a soft spot for Pieter. You can feel his honest desire to push the house codes into new, more modern spheres. He's still not arrived yet, but i'm still rooting for him.

The most hilarious thing is Suzy Menkes post when she adresses PM as «name name». She just doesn't care anymore. Such a refreshing carelessness despite all the other «journalists» that have no own opinion at all and just copy/paste the show notes under their pictures.



suzymenkes instagram

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Atsuko Kudo doing a ready to wear collection with only LV Fall 2011 and YSL Fall 2008 on the mood boards styled by Nicola Formichetti.

It's okay. Very dated and not very Alaïa just from a warmth point of view. It is interesting to see a harsher strictness at Alaïa, but when it is presented it feels very joyless and haphazard. His approach is also still too "shape wear" chic, with a fair few of these pieces coming across as glorified club wear.

Can't help but also think despite there being some great pieces, you can find them elsewhere more affordably.

 

[andrew]

Atsuko Kudo doing a ready to wear collection with only LV Fall 2011 and YSL Fall 2008 on the mood boards styled by Nicola Formichetti.

It's okay. Very dated and not very Alaïa just from a warmth point of view. It is interesting to see a harsher strictness at Alaïa, but when it is presented it feels very joyless and haphazard. His approach is also still too "shape wear" chic, with a fair few of these pieces coming across as glorified club wear.

Can't help but also think despite there being some great pieces, you can find them elsewhere more affordably.

Atsuko Kudo is the first thing I thought of...

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

It’s good to see women who have walked for Azzedine in this show: Natasha, Elise, Mariacarla…

I like the color palette.
I think the dresses on Mariacarla and Adwoa. The grey ostrich leather is good and the leather bandage dress, while more JITROIS than ALAIA, has an effect and can’t wait for Kim Kardashian to squire her body into it.

‘My favorite looks are the looks on Vittoria and Irina, which despite being totally unforgiving in terms of proportions, are really fresh in a collection that is just a pure rehash of archive pieces.

This is my real problem with Pieter.
There’s no POV in his work. It’s full of common place on top of being designed for IG people and not so much for real life.

Looking at this makes me think about Giles Deacon’s FW11 Ungaro collection. This kind of fantasy dominatrix but done with less imagination.

‘I don’t see the added value in terms of design of Pieter. He added buttons on the suits from FW86, he used the same suspenders from the same collection.

Alaia has the richest archives in fashion (he has saved everything from him and a lot from other designers). He was inspired by Balenciaga, by Adrian and Mme Gres among others. You can have some interesting approach to his work by looking at what shaped his aesthetic. He dressed Grace Jones and Greta Garbo and women from the Haute Society..
There’s a duality in his work from the very revealing to the monastic.

‘We don’t find anything about it here.
It’s a bit reductive to only show sex, sex and sex for Alaia.

 

[LadyJunon]

It’s good to see women who have walked for Azzedine in this show: Natasha, Elise, Mariacarla…

I like the color palette.
I think the dresses on Mariacarla and Adwoa. The grey ostrich leather is good and the leather bandage dress, while more JITROIS than ALAIA, has an effect and can’t wait for Kim Kardashian to squire her body into it.

‘My favorite looks are the looks on Vittoria and Irina, which despite being totally unforgiving in terms of proportions, are really fresh in a collection that is just a pure rehash of archive pieces.

This is my real problem with Pieter.
There’s no POV in his work. It’s full of common place on top of being designed for IG people and not so much for real life.

Looking at this makes me think about Giles Deacon’s FW11 Ungaro collection. This kind of fantasy dominatrix but done with less imagination.

‘I don’t see the added value in terms of design of Pieter. He added buttons on the suits from FW86, he used the same suspenders from the same collection.

Alaia has the richest archives in fashion (he has saved everything from him and a lot from other designers). He was inspired by Balenciaga, by Adrian and Mme Gres among others. You can have some interesting approach to his work by looking at what shaped his aesthetic. He dressed Grace Jones and Greta Garbo and women from the Haute Society..
There’s a duality in his work from the very revealing to the monastic.

‘We don’t find anything about it here.
It’s a bit reductive to only show sex, sex and sex for Alaia.

Yes! That's exactly it.

Alaïa as a house is very plural in terms of who their woman is. The Alaïa woman could be the rising TikTok It-girl, the wife of the French President or anyone else in-between.

Meanwhile, this Alaïa is very singular in its identity. He needs to look back to the last two collections to figure out what made it work so well and maybe add some visual complexity too while he's at it.

 

[LadyJunon]

A part of Sarah Mower's interview for Vogue Runway:

“Naked dressing” has been having a long post-pandemic streak. Mulier is perhaps adding in a theoretical way to the frank show-your-body conversation that Casey Cadwallader has been pushing at Mugler, or Nensi Dojaka has been doing in her own way with lingerie dressing in London.

What the show missed out on was the joyful self-glorification of female bodies that is now a spectacular part of pop culture. The narrowness of the casting excluded the embrace of curves that has been normalized by the young generation, and which they expect to see reflected back on runways. Granted, it takes technical know-how to engineer different sizes. Mulier has that at his disposal. It would be great to see him start to embrace a new vision of the Amazonian power that Azzedine Alaia invested in women—the part that’s as much about the soul and the pulse of the brand, as it is about the body.

While, I understand Mower's desire for Mulier's Alaïa to align itself with the Gen-Z Zeitgeist, I think that Alaïa would thrive more by existing outside of that one-dimensional "Mugler/Nensi pop-culture bubble" especially because of how sparse and alienating those sartorial propositions are beyond the social media crowd.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Watching the video of the models walking at the end really took away from the sexiness that this show is trying to convey. If they are not comfortable in the shoes you designed, they won't exude this sexiness you are trying and failing to portray. It all looks so cold and devoid of any warmth and humour that makes it enjoyable. Alaïa or not, it feels clinical.

I was thinking the same thing not sexy at all the, these girls dont look like sunlight girls, this set is not right for this show

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Not crazy about the belts or the deep V high waisted underwear but aside from that and it being Alaia I like the subtle sexy night porter vibe about it. Maybe it's just the contrast of being in the same realm of all the other yassified gimmicks everyone else presents. However like people been saying, it doesn't look that great in motion which kinda ends up blending it in with its gimmicky peers in that it's not meant for real life. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt lol everyone makes mistakes.

Also it looks like they had to add little pieces of plastic to the shoes so the models wouldn't get caught in between the boards of the bridge. The show as a whole doesn't seem that well thought out.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

omg lol it took me so long to realize about the handles on the belts. At first I thought wow yawn adding handbag handles to belts like what kind of Virgil Abloh sh*t is this, but then... Unless that is my very dirty mind...? It is on theme...

 

[LadyJunon]

The show video:

 

[LadyJunon]

The show video:

So happy to finally see this collection in motion. Shayne Laverdiere (director) and Sophian Belgardi (cinematography) did a really good job on this video. The slow motion cinematography is flattering to the slightly rickety walks.

 

[MulletProof]

A part of Sarah Mower's interview for Vogue Runway:

While, I understand Mower's desire for Mulier's Alaïa to align itself with the Gen-Z Zeitgeist, I think that Alaïa would thrive more by existing outside of that one-dimensional "Mugler/Nensi pop-culture bubble" especially because of how sparse and alienating those sartorial propositions are beyond the social media crowd.

Took me a minute to realise she's not talking about the weak models but thinking the solution lies on the likes of Paloma, right?. Ugh. No one would be questioning the casting if it was consistent with the clothes on all of the models and had they abstained from the Raf influence of opting for models whose brand is 'lost, hunched and confused'. This one right here is the worst, I saw some videos, it's not the shoes, more like.. girl what are you doing , closely followed by this one, and miss dead inside. Even this one look would improve dramatically on Sacha Quenby (but then, the entire collection would if it was just Sacha, the very picture of a glamazon through and through). The casting seems well-intentioned but it just didn't quite match the collection..

 

[FashionFanatico]

So happy to finally see this collection in motion. Shayne Laverdiere (director) and Sophian Belgardi (cinematography) did a really good job on this video. The slow motion cinematography is flattering to the slightly rickety walks.

Really sophisticated. Kudos to the motion pictures team!
It adds much more value to the collection. And ALL the models look fab and fierce (despite some minor struggling) walking in heels on this uneven, curved passarelle.

 

[THD96]

I'm sorry but when a limited designer like Anthony Vaccarello had done a better tribute to Alaïa at YSL than Pieter, you know you have a problem.

It's funny that he said fetish is not a good word but I see a lot of fetish and sex and not enough sensuality in this collection.

Good soundtrack and location I guessed.

 

[Pastry]

wow...this is not alaïa
to hire a boring designer like mulier..
wtf were they thinking? this does the brand absolutely no favors.

 

[RaisinBoy]

Whats up with mediocre collections taking over the bridges this season?!?!

 

[JohannesL]

I like the sheer looks with high-waisted undergarments, but the overwhelming coldness and clinical approach really suck my sense of sensuality out of this collection.