Alber Elbaz - Designer

[vetements]

It seems people still have not learned from the Wang/Balenciaga debacle. Wasnt Wang appointed based on his ethnicity and the promise of increased sales there? Funnily enough Balenciaga already had a degree of presence in China prior to his appointment. In fact under Nicolas, the house was one of the first to seek out a top Chinese celebrity (Maggie Cheung) to translate their values to a Chinese audience. Wang did manage to create a spike in sales, but that was only because he re-introduced the label with capsule collections and dressing as many mainstream people as possible. The latter ultimately diluted the very essence and mystique of the house, my opinion. Any designer couldve devised such a plan, the success was never specific to his race. And if anything, I think Alexander Wang, the brand, gained more from his tenure at Balenciaga than Balenciaga themselves. With Lanvin it's a different story. Their first entry was into the market was in 2011, I think. And by then Chanel, Gucci etc was already established there. Lanvin's biggest inducement was probably the H&M collab, but Alber almost insisted on following a more understated approach to China, and not throw clothes at them like many did at the time, *cough* Gucci *cough*. Also, Lanvin had no de facto spokesperson in China, so there was never a hypervisible celebrity which one could associate with the brand. This is a very important angle for the mass market over there. Chanel's got Zhou Xun, Dior's got Li Bingbing, Armani's got Zhang Ziyi and LV's got both Maggie Cheung and Fan Bingbing. So probably Wang (Lanvin) resents the weak foothold her company maintains in China, and she's trying to find someone to accentuate it. Whoever she hires better do their homework properly because the Chinese consumer has evolved a lot since 2011. The fashion press there has done a lot to shape shopping trends to something less scattered. So the new designer might have to step in with a new aesthetic to capture the refine sect of China. Of course, if all else fails there's still the 'tuhao' (relentlessly loading up on Balmain, no doubt), lol.

Pricciao, Benn98

Whilst having a muse/ spokesperson/ image person should be able to achieve that leaning towards a certain market, having a designer is an entirely different story, imho. The designer is pretty much the conceptualists that defines the direction of the brand.
I shudder to think what damage of such a mindset will this do to any brand in the long run.

I also wonder given the mentality of Chinese customers, how much will they lap up the idea of everything 'Chinese', they might as well go buy a brand like 'Bosideng' that even has a premium spot on Bond Street London?

Ironically, and arguably, mentalities of Chinese people is this admiration for things western, and in this case, upholding the Parisian heritage of Lanvin works well, this Wang lady should play down her involvement in the brand and upkeep/ play up its French roots instead.

And how again will the 'old money' in the western world take to that, what losses are we looking at?

Just my two cents.

 

[Uemarasan]

I would say, though, that the designers you're mentioning are quite current, not historical. It may be a difficult question to answer, because designers who are truly historical virtually all had their own businesses.

Yes, that's what I meant. The reason why Yves Saint Laurent and Gianfranco Ferre are still remembered is because they had their own successful houses. I don't think anyone really remembers Marc Bohan's work. And he worked at Dior for 30 years.

 

[Uemarasan]

Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel & Fendi
Tom Ford at Gucci & Saint Laurent
Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent & Dior Homme
Christophe Decarnin at Balmain
Marc Jacobs at Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga & Vuitton
Phoebe Philo at Chloé & Celine
Peter Dundas at Pucci

When the work is good and influencial, history remember the name of those who designed for houses that don't carry their names.

These designers are still alive and working and their places in history are yet to be determined. People may like them now, but that doesn't guarantee that they will be remembered in the future. I'm talking about designers in the past.

Also, Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford have their own labels.

 

[squilliam]

The best solution is: the house of Elbaz. Does history even remember those who designed for houses that don't carry their names?

Not so much, most people dont know who designers like Raf Simons and Alber Elbaz are, but they kjow who ysl and dior are. I think Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford but they have their own brands.

I think it's time for new legends, definitely ready for House of Elbaz

 

[bearbrick]

This is beyond sad. Lanvin was always one of the few shows that I looked forward to during fashion month. I wonder if his partner will stay at Lanvin as well.

When you say partner , as in boyfriend ?
What role did his partner have at Lanvin ?

 

[Lola701]

These designers are still alive and working and their places in history are yet to be determined. People may like them now, but that doesn't guarantee that they will be remembered in the future. I'm talking about designers in the past.

Also, Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford have their own labels.

Being dead doesn't mean anything. A lot of people don't even know who Schiaparelli, Vionnet & Poiret were.

YSL became a "legend" in the 80's...and he was still working. Karl is considered as a living legend by a lot of people.

I choosed carefuly some of the names i added on my list. Dior Homme for example reached it peak with Hedi Slimane.
The Balmainmania started with Christophe Decarnin...

Yes, Marc & Tom have their own brands but without the success of their work for Vuitton & Gucci, it couldn't be possible. Marc's success at Vuitton kinda saved his own brand.

We can maybe argue on Decarnin and Dundas but IMO it will be silly to think that no one will remember Karl Lagerfeld's work at Chanel (even at Chloé).

And remember that designers being at the head of big established houses started with the introduction of RTW in couture houses. So, in the late 70's-early 80's.

 

[Pricciao]

Pricciao, Benn98

I agree with what you say, designers do stand a significant role in shaping the brands they work with. But if you read my words, I didn't talk about Jason Wu being the key point to please Chinese customers, I said family first is an important value to Taiwanese businesspeople.

 

[Uemarasan]

Being dead doesn't mean anything. A lot of people don't even know who Schiaparelli, Vionnet & Poiret were.

YSL became a "legend" in the 80's...and he was still working. Karl is considered as a living legend by a lot of people.

I choosed carefuly some of the names i added on my list. Dior Homme for example reached it peak with Hedi Slimane.
The Balmainmania started with Christophe Decarnin...

Yes, Marc & Tom have their own brands but without the success of their work for Vuitton & Gucci, it couldn't be possible. Marc's success at Vuitton kinda saved his own brand.

We can maybe argue on Decarnin and Dundas but IMO it will be silly to think that no one will remember Karl Lagerfeld's work at Chanel (even at Chloé).

And remember that designers being at the head of big established houses started with the introduction of RTW in couture houses. So, in the late 70's-early 80's.

I very clearly said in my post "history", and if someone doesn't think designers working nowadays know who Poiret, Vionnet, and Schiaparelli are, then they are just being willfully naive. Or lack proper fashion education. Collections continue to find inspiration in Poiret, Vionnet, and Schiaparelli. Who do you think popularized the bias cut? Who do you think popularized looser silhouettes for women? Who do you think inspired Prada? I challenge you to name a single historical designer who is studied intensively or referenced who did not design under his or her own name.

Being dead or retired certainly is the one thing that will determine whether or not someone has made a lasting legacy on fashion. Determining who among current designers will be remembered in the future is a lost cause, unless you're capable of time traveling. The same is the case in all the arts and fields of design.

 

[Lola701]

I very clearly said in my post "history", and if someone doesn't think designers working nowadays know who Poiret, Vionnet, and Schiaparelli are, then they are just being willfully naive. Or lack proper fashion education. Collections continue to find inspiration in Poiret, Vionnet, and Schiaparelli. Who do you think popularized the bias cut? Who do you think popularized looser silhouettes for women? Who do you think inspired Prada? I challenge you to name a single historical designer who is studied intensively or referenced who did not design under his or her own name.

Being dead or retired certainly is the one thing that will determine whether or not someone has made a lasting legacy on fashion. Determining who among current designers will be remembered in the future is a lost cause, unless you're capable of time traveling. The same is the case in all the arts and fields of design.

But that's not my point. I don't think i need a fashion education but the truth is that some people who are interested in fashion are not familiar with Poiret or Schiaparelli.
It may sound insane for you but that doesn't mean that it doesn't exist.

One designer who is studied for his work at another brand: Karl Lagerfeld. No one will remember what he did with his own brand.
But nothing tells us that Alber Elbaz will have the same influence if he open his own house.

I will disagree on naming who among current designers (of those who are working for existing brands) will be remembered in the future. Maybe i have some talents in time traveling.

It's an endless debate which is slightly out of topic.

 

[Nymphaea]

Renewed Lanvin Studio to Realize Pre-Fall Effort

PARIS — In the wake of Alber Elbaz’s ouster earlier this week, Chemena Kamali and Lucio Finale are among the top creative talents at Lanvin who will realize the French house’s pre-fall 2016 collection, WWD has learned.

Kamali recently joined Lanvin as design director for women’s ready-to-wear from Chloé, while Finale had been promoted to creative director of women’s bags and shoes after one year as its head designer of women’s bags.

A graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, Kamali was previously design director of the pre-collection and head of “flou” rtw, or softly constructed garments, at Chloé for three-and-a-half years, according to her LinkedIn profile.

Her résumé also includes stints at Strenesse and Alberta Ferretti.

A graduate of the Accademia di Belle Arti di Napoli, Finale has also designed shoes and accessories for Givenchy and Valentino.

Elie Top, who collaborated with Elbaz on Lanvin’s costume jewelry since 2001, will also contribute to the pre-fall women’s effort, a Lanvin spokeswoman confirmed, noting that the studio would ready the collection as usual in time for a January unveiling. Meanwhile, men’s designer Lucas Ossendrijver, tapped by Elbaz in 2005 to rejuvenate Lanvin Homme, is readying the fall 2016 collection for the runway in January.

The spokeswoman also downplayed assertions by the company’s works council that the firm is in upheaval following the exit of Elbaz after a 14-year tenure, assuring there is “no internal crisis.”

As reported, the council has requested that majority owner Shaw-Lan Wang, who pushed out the star designer, return to Paris from her native Taiwan to listen to their concerns, answer questions and reassure employees.

News of Elbaz’s ouster was first reported on WWD.com on Oct. 28, with the designer holding out hope that the company “finds the business vision it needs to engage in the right way forward.” Sources said the rupture came following bitter disagreements between Elbaz, Wang and chief executive officer Michèle Huiban.

Elbaz has yet to indicate his future intentions, and his successor at Lanvin has yet to be named. Names on its short list could include Haider Ackermann, Olivier Rousteing, Simone Rocha, Huishan Zhang and Joseph Altuzarra.

It is understood internal candidates could also be considered for the plum post.

wwd

 

[sore]

I very clearly said in my post "history", and if someone doesn't think designers working nowadays know who Poiret, Vionnet, and Schiaparelli are, then they are just being willfully naive. Or lack proper fashion education. Collections continue to find inspiration in Poiret, Vionnet, and Schiaparelli. Who do you think popularized the bias cut? Who do you think popularized looser silhouettes for women? Who do you think inspired Prada? I challenge you to name a single historical designer who is studied intensively or referenced who did not design under his or her own name.

Being dead or retired certainly is the one thing that will determine whether or not someone has made a lasting legacy on fashion. Determining who among current designers will be remembered in the future is a lost cause, unless you're capable of time traveling. The same is the case in all the arts and fields of design.

This whole discussion is kind of pointless since only recently designers began to work at renowned older fashion houses who were named after or closely connected to their founder. When Coco Chanel started out, it simply was not an option to either create your own brand or design, say, for Charles Frederick Worth. The musical chairs we have today is a very recent development in fashion history (which of course has to do with certain capitalistic ideas), you just can't compare today's designers to Poiret or Vionnet. It is a totally different era.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Didn't Marc Bohan have his own line too? I seem to remember Neiman's carrying it back in the day. I had no idea he was at Dior for 30 years ... but maybe he just wasn't very memorable? I'm not familiar with his work there--I don't know.


I suspect some designers who don't design under their own names will be remembered--though I would certainly like to see what Alber would do in his own right. Though Karl has had his own label, I think he will definitely be remembered for what he did for other houses rather than his own.


I also suspect that Marc Jacobs will be remembered for his own label more than Vuitton--but who knows. He's still young, and it's possible he hasn't done his most memorable work yet.


I thought a heritage label and Alber worked beautifully together ... but perhaps the next chapter will be completely different.


Someone asked about Alex. He has headed up marketing for Lanvin.

 

[TheoG]

I had a feeling Joseph Altuzarra name would pop back up since he was rumored to be successor at Gucci. I thought he would a contender for Dior as well. With everything being so youth centered he wouldn't come as shock to me. Nor would Simone Rocha, Huishan Zhang, or Haider really. But I worry that they all want to focus on their own brand. Oliver can stay at Balmain he seems to be going well there. No need for him to leave ... please.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Agreed. After all, what's wrong with clothes the color of orange soda? Nothing, nothing at all.


Haider Ackermann and Simone Rocha are both palatable choices.

 

[Fewormany]

Oh, Haider would be promising!

 

[GreyVetiver]

When you say partner , as in boyfriend ?
What role did his partner have at Lanvin ?

Lanvin's director of marketing

 

[Illithid Dude]

I could see Lucas Ossendrijver stepping in as the creative director for women's wear on a permanent basis if his AW16 collection is good. His menswear collections are consistently some of the best at fashion week.

 

[billiejbob]

Not sure whether this has been posted but it seems that his team at Lanvin have protested against his dismissal.

http://honey.ninemsn.com.au/2015/11/02/09/49/alber-elbazs-team-protest-his-dismissal

 

[softgrey]

i am also protesting in my mind and in my heart...
i don't want a fashion world without alber elbaz's designs and philosophy...

i don't want a lanvin without elbaz...

 

[softgrey]

and what is wrong with you poeple saying his collections were stale...
fall 2015 is MAJOR~~~!!!
one of the most beautiful things i have seen in my life...

...