Alber Elbaz - Designer

[Fashionstuff]

I suspect some designers who don't design under their own names will be remembered--though I would certainly like to see what Alber would do in his own right. Though Karl has had his own label, I think he will definitely be remembered for what he did for other houses rather than his own.


I also suspect that Marc Jacobs will be remembered for his own label more than Vuitton--but who knows. He's still young, and it's possible he hasn't done his most memorable work yet.

Karl Lagerfeld is a living legend. He made from himself a cult figure, he is famous about himself.
He started to be famous with his own Label too, it was from 1974 until 1983, he was selfemployed and worked also for some Labels. He made a lot before he started to work for Chanel. Karl will be remembered because of himself at first.And than, for what he did for Chanel, Fendi ect.

Alber is not Karl, also if Alber will start with his own line but, sincerely, i don't think he will do it and i'll be very surpised if he really will do his own brand. The best time to start with his own brand was when he was at the helm of Lanvin.

and what is wrong with you poeple saying his collections were stale...
fall 2015 is MAJOR~~~!!!
one of the most beautiful things i have seen in my life...

S/S 2015 was also awesome. S/S 2015 and F/W 2015-2016 were my favorite collections.

 

[fashionista-ta]

and what is wrong with you poeple saying his collections were stale...
fall 2015 is MAJOR~~~!!!
one of the most beautiful things i have seen in my life...

...

Quite right, it is a great collection. 'Stale' seems to be a tFS obsession.

 

[Uemarasan]

Didn't Marc Bohan have his own line too? I seem to remember Neiman's carrying it back in the day. I had no idea he was at Dior for 30 years ... but maybe he just wasn't very memorable? I'm not familiar with his work there--I don't know.


I suspect some designers who don't design under their own names will be remembered--though I would certainly like to see what Alber would do in his own right. Though Karl has had his own label, I think he will definitely be remembered for what he did for other houses rather than his own.


I also suspect that Marc Jacobs will be remembered for his own label more than Vuitton--but who knows. He's still young, and it's possible he hasn't done his most memorable work yet.


I thought a heritage label and Alber worked beautifully together ... but perhaps the next chapter will be completely different.


Someone asked about Alex. He has headed up marketing for Lanvin.

Lagerfeld will probably be remembered, but he has his own label, too, like Fashionstuff said above. Although are there any young designers working now who reference Karl Lagerfeld like, say, Helmut Lang or Martin Margiela? I'm genuinely curious. One can probably argue that unless a designer presents a clear personal vision of fashion, it's likely he or she won't be remembered. And I t's difficult to formulate an idiosyncratic vision when there is the weight of a legacy. That's why someone only working with the preestablished codes of a house most likely will be forgotten in the future.

I do love Alber, but he actually borrowed a lot from the Lanvin archives. Just like you, I'd love to see what he does on his own.

 

[Uemarasan]

This whole discussion is kind of pointless since only recently designers began to work at renowned older fashion houses who were named after or closely connected to their founder. When Coco Chanel started out, it simply was not an option to either create your own brand or design, say, for Charles Frederick Worth. The musical chairs we have today is a very recent development in fashion history (which of course has to do with certain capitalistic ideas), you just can't compare today's designers to Poiret or Vionnet. It is a totally different era.

If it's pointless, then you can just choose to ignore the discussion, thanks. It's simply a hypothesis being tested out. I already gave an example: Marc Bohan. If you want more, there are Antonio del Castillo, Jules-Francois Crahay, Gerard Pipart. I suspect the reason why these designers, who were all called "living legends" during their day, aren't as influential as Chanel, Givenchy, Balenciaga, Margiela, McQueen was that they didn't build any successful houses of their own and did their best work under the auspices of someone else's legacy.

 

[Phuel]

Lagerfeld will probably be remembered, but he has his own label, too, like Fashionstuff said above. Although are there any young designers working now who reference Karl Lagerfeld like, say, Helmut Lang or Martin Margiela? I'm genuinely curious. One can probably argue that unless a designer presents a clear personal vision of fashion, it's likely he or she won't be remembered. And I t's difficult to formulate an idiosyncratic vision when there is the weight of a legacy. That's why someone only working with the preestablished codes of a house most likely will be forgotten in the future.

I do love Alber, but he actually borrowed a lot from the Lanvin archives. Just like you, I'd love to see what he does on his own.

I don’t think Karl and his designs are comparable to anyone else’s. And I don’t mean that in any complimentary way. Karl is totally about disposable, fast-fashion designs and attitude for the very, very rich. It’s the Chanel atelier that backs up his disposbale designs and create luxurious pieces out of them. I don’t think it’s at all about Karl’s designs. When one has access to the very best of everything, then even the worst of designs can come out impressive. I think that’s why young designers never revered Karl: they know they have to do everything, and don’t have access to what Karl has unless they have multi-millions backing them. And, those intertwined Cs on the pieces says it all. No one can compete with that. Karl’s an anomaly in the industry: He’s critic-proof and fail-proof.

Albar has that pure, and rare combination of talented designer, dressmaker and tailor who dresses women well. I also don’t get the constant “stale” finger-pointing at him. Unless some are so jaded, so desperate to be ahead of the pack that they consistently throw out last season’s wardrobe every single time for the latest and greatest, there’s absolutley nothing stale about Alber’s designs time after time. Women look great in his fashions, so why the need to always re-invent…? Maybe it’s this age of the interweb where designers and their collections are solely judged on some low-quality pics online, and accompanied by an even lower-quality video of the show on Youtube, then discarded soon after, but reverence of a designer’s latest offering become relevant when I see them in the shops and worn by people. And Lanvin— for both women and men, have consistently been impressive when I hold and feel it in my hands and, in the menswears case, when worn.

 

[Lola701]

^^
I really feel like Karl's position is different only because he was the first one to do this and it was more than 30 years ago, which means another world, another time, another clientele, another situation.

DOn't forget that at the time he decided to do Chanel, the house wasn't only in bad shape but couture was seen as dead. He came to Chanel to make the RTW strong.
The early 80's saw the success of Alaia, Mugler, Montana & Gaultier, designers who didn't seeked the approval of the Haute COuture to exist or succeed in french fashion.

What Karl proved IMO was his ability to adapt himself to the state of fashion.

I find quite unfair to compare him to Alber or anyone. You can see that he is working on totally different mind set at Fendi and CHanel.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I don’t think Karl and his designs are comparable to anyone else’s. And I don’t mean that in any complimentary way. Karl is totally about disposable, fast-fashion designs and attitude for the very, very rich. It’s the Chanel atelier that backs up his disposbale designs and create luxurious pieces out of them. I don’t think it’s at all about Karl’s designs. When one has access to the very best of everything, then even the worst of designs can come out impressive. I think that’s why young designers never revered Karl: they know they have to do everything, and don’t have access to what Karl has unless they have multi-millions backing them. And, those intertwined Cs on the pieces says it all. No one can compete with that. Karl’s an anomaly in the industry: He’s critic-proof and fail-proof.

Albar has that pure, and rare combination of talented designer, dressmaker and tailor who dresses women well. I also don’t get the constant “stale” finger-pointing at him. Unless some are so jaded, so desperate to be ahead of the pack that they consistently throw out last season’s wardrobe every single time for the latest and greatest, there’s absolutley nothing stale about Alber’s designs time after time. Women look great in his fashions, so why the need to always re-invent…? Maybe it’s this age of the interweb where designers and their collections are solely judged on some low-quality pics online, and accompanied by an even lower-quality video of the show on Youtube, then discarded soon after, but reverence of a designer’s latest offering become relevant when I see them in the shops and worn by people. And Lanvin— for both women and men, have consistently been impressive when I hold and feel it in my hands and, in the menswears case, when worn.

The intertwined Cs are a big part of why Chanel doesn't seem right for Alber to me. You could not find two branding strategies further apart, IMO. Alber's Lanvin is certainly recognizable, but not due to any logo.


I've been looking at some of the designs from his early days at Lanvin, and I'm impressed by the sophistication and elegance he's evolved. His work there definitely matured. Of course I completely agree with you that the clothes are wonderful to wear. Putting them on, you're so impressed with the true thoughtfulness and originality of the designs. Alber wants not only to make you look good, but feel good too. He's in a class by himself. And of course you're also right that someone looking at pictures on the 'net will never know this because it's something no picture can capture.

 

[Fashionstuff]

^^
I really feel like Karl's position is different only because he was the first one to do this and it was more than 30 years ago, which means another world, another time, another clientele, another situation.

DOn't forget that at the time he decided to do Chanel, the house wasn't only in bad shape but couture was seen as dead. He came to Chanel to make the RTW strong.
The early 80's saw the success of Alaia, Mugler, Montana & Gaultier, designers who didn't seeked the approval of the Haute COuture to exist or succeed in french fashion.

What Karl proved IMO was his ability to adapt himself to the state of fashion.

I find quite unfair to compare him to Alber or anyone. You can see that he is working on totally different mind set at Fendi and CHanel.

Agree with Lola.

There were also Gianfranco Ferré ,Gianni Versace, in their case, the both are died but we still remember them. Also if todays Ferré is far away from Ferré in years 90. Or todays Versace is not same as Versace of 90.

Karl is only one who adapted himself, he is really genie, not only in the role of designer but also in fashion business.
If i remember good, when Karl presented his Choupette collection he told to press, for one german TV journalist ( i remember it good because he told it in german and i was sended in one TV programm)
So he told : " It seems that everything i touch has turns to gold" ( like Midas touch )

Alber could be like Elie Saab or Zuhair Murad. Create his own Label, a lot of deigners has it and all of them succeesed to work for own Label and for some famous Label. Many "Young" Designers does it.
I hope Elbaz is creativ enough and has some still some new creative ideas after spending all this years in Lanvin.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Thing are about to get really interesting.

Labor Tensions Reach New High at Lanvin

Labor Tensions Reach New High at Lanvin A staff representative said relations between employees and management “have reached a point of no return.” Source: Fashion News

WWD might have the full story if anyone has access.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Quite interesting, no? It's at moments like this that you really have to love the French.

 

[fashionista-ta]

wwd

The rest of the story ...

PARIS – Tensions between staff and management at Lanvin have reached a new high following the surprise departure last week of creative director Alber Elbaz.

Charles Henry Paradis, a member of the works council who represents employees on the board of the company, said staff representatives met with a labor inspector on Tuesday after the head of Lanvin’s human resources department declined to hold a meeting to discuss a list of questions put forward by employees.
Paradis accused management of trying to stall the official procedure launched by the works council last week demanding that majority owner Shaw-Lan Wang, who pushed out the star designer, return to Paris from Taiwan, where she is based, to listen to their concerns, answer questions and reassure employees.
“We have reached a point of no return in terms of labor relations,” Paradis told WWD on Wednesday. “General management is trying to play for time by using delaying tactics to try to choke us financially. There is a breakdown in relations between staff representatives and management that is unheard-of.”
Paradis said that among the issues staff would like to address are forecasts that Lanvin will post a loss this year for the first time since 2007, and the high level of employee turnover at the firm. He said the labor inspector would write to Lanvin officials to remind them of their obligations under French law.
“It’s much ado about nothing,” countered a spokeswoman for Lanvin, describing the delay in the timing of the meeting as a technicality. “The situation as it appears to be described by one person does not correspond with reality,” she added, saying that Paradis – though elected to the works council – did not speak on behalf of the company’s 330 members of staff.
“Lanvin has been in existence for 125 years. It must go on. We are not going to close the house because our creative director is gone,” the spokeswoman added. “The teams are hard at work. They continue to work, even if it is an emotional time.”
Lanvin employees were told of Elbaz’s dismissal a week ago — news met with shock, tears and chants of “Alber, Alber, Alber.”
News of Elbaz’s ouster after an eventful 14-year tenure was first reported on WWD.com, with the designer holding out hope that the company “finds the business vision it needs to engage in the right way forward.”
Sources said the rupture came following disagreements between Elbaz, Wang and chief executive officer Michèle Huiban.
Elbaz has yet to indicate his future intentions, and his successor at Lanvin has yet to be named. As reported, names on its short list could include Olivier Rousteing, Simone Rocha, Huishan Zhang and Joseph Altuzarra, as well as Lucas Ossendrijver, tapped by Elbaz in 2005 to rejuvenate Lanvin Homme.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ The horror, the horror of Olivier or Joseph being considered to head this label is dumbfounding to me. With these two, Lanvin will either be a camp, 80s-crass display of redundancy courtesy of Olivier— or it will be just plan redundancy, courtesy of Joseph.

^^
I really feel like Karl's position is different only because he was the first one to do this and it was more than 30 years ago, which means another world, another time, another clientele, another situation.

DOn't forget that at the time he decided to do Chanel, the house wasn't only in bad shape but couture was seen as dead. He came to Chanel to make the RTW strong.
The early 80's saw the success of Alaia, Mugler, Montana & Gaultier, designers who didn't seeked the approval of the Haute COuture to exist or succeed in french fashion.

What Karl proved IMO was his ability to adapt himself to the state of fashion.

I find quite unfair to compare him to Alber or anyone. You can see that he is working on totally different mind set at Fendi and CHanel.

Oh no— I wasn’t comparing Alber to Karl at all, Lola. As posted, I don’t feel anyone can compare to Karl— for better or for worse. Karl’s design mentality, and his Chanel, is totally about a lifestyle that’s been a mainstay in high fashion for over 4 decades— whether I like his designs or not (I don’t), I still respect his longevity to adapt and maintain profitability for the labels he heads.

I don’t think most women would save up and buy Chanel (except for the bags) unless they have the lifestyle to go with it. Karl and Chanel exist on a very different plane than almost every other designer and label.

 

[Fashionstuff]

Very interesting article, i choosed 2 quotes to post:
Thanks @ Fashionista-ta for link to WWD.com

Source WWD.com

Still, there were signs of discord. Rumors percolated that Elbaz didn’t get on with Michèle Huiban, the chief executive officer brought in by Wang. Huiban, in turn, replaced Lanvin’s longtime p.r. director and Elbaz supporter, Hania Destelle. And there were indications that after a long northward trajectory, sales had stalled. But clearly, the biggest conflict was between Elbaz and Wang. Prior to buying Lanvin, Wang, a Taiwanese publishing mogul, had no real experience in the fashion industry. My colleague Miles Socha reported that according to sources, Elbaz, who holds an equity stake, wanted her to sell to an owner better equipped to capitalize on the foundation now in place, but that she’s digging in her heels, seeking a very high price and wants a buyer she knows.

What the fashion-interested do know of today’s Lanvin is Alber Elbaz — period. His work is our concept of the brand: the draping; his way of turning a mannish tweed into a feminine swirl; the bold use of jewelry and baublelike embroideries; the couturelike finishing; most importantly, the core tenant that chic and ease are not antithetical concepts. Those are Alber’s concepts, Alber’s codes. Yes, he linked back to elements worked by Jeanne Lanvin herself. But who cares?

As the consumer sees it, Lanvin and Elbaz are synonymous. This will make finding the right successor all the more difficult. What’s an incoming designer to do? Throw out baby and bathwater, or build on something fabulous created by a gifted contemporary who will likely find a new employment situation as soon as he chooses, possibly an extremely high-profile one? If the former, a tall order. If the latter, one runs the risk of unfavorable comparison.

Source WWD.com

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ I find that commentary on his contribution to the house codes to be quite accurate. At the 125th anniversary, I believe he went back to the archives more literally, and you could see the difference. (I believe they also meant 'the core tenet' ... )

 

[fashionista-ta]

wwd

More from the French

Former French Culture Minister Condemns Elbaz Ouster

PARIS – Former French culture minister Jack Lang has waded into the controversy surrounding the departure of Alber Elbaz as creative director of Lanvin, qualifying the decision as “incomprehensible and shocking.”

In a statement, the politician — who is now president of the Arab World Institute – said he backed Lanvin employees in calling for the return of the Israeli-American designer, ousted last week by majority owner Shaw-Lan Wang.
“To cut the wings of this exceptional talent in this way makes me very sad and angry. I can only share in the fervent wish of the Lanvin employees who are strongly and rightly calling for the return of this great designer. This dismissal is an unbearable and unspeakable injustice,” Lang said.
“Talent is not dismissible and our country should be proud of the great Alber Elbaz. He is one of our national treasures. He is an icon and a source of pride to us. We owe him our unfailing support, our respect and our affection,” added the Socialist politician, who has attended Lanvin’s catwalk shows several times.
Officials at Lanvin were not immediately available for comment.
Tensions between staff and management at Lanvin reached a new high this week, with Charles Henry Paradis, a member of the works council who represents employees on the company board, accusing management of trying to stall the official procedure launched by the works council last week to obtain answer from Wang.
The employees want the house’s owner to return to Paris from Taiwan, where she is based, to listen to their concerns, answer questions and reassure employees. A spokeswoman for Lanvin dismissed his claims, saying it was business as usual at the house, despite the highly emotional context.
Lanvin employees were told of Elbaz’s dismissal last week — news met with shock, tears and chants of “Alber, Alber, Alber.”
News of Elbaz’s ouster after an eventful 14-year tenure was first reported on WWD.com, with the designer holding out hope that the company “finds the business vision it needs to engage in the right way forward.”
Sources said the rupture came following disagreements between Elbaz, Wang and chief executive officer Michèle Huiban.
Elbaz has yet to indicate his future intentions, and his successor at Lanvin has yet to be named. As reported, names on its short list could include Olivier Rousteing, Simone Rocha, Huishan Zhang and Joseph Altuzarra, as well as Lucas Ossendrijver, tapped by Elbaz in 2005 to rejuvenate Lanvin Homme.

 

[fashionista-ta]

wwd

Conclusion of Bridget Foley's article ...

True, hiring a scorching, buzzy name wasn’t a problem for Balenciaga. But Alexander Wang’s three-year stint put “palate-cleanser” distance between the incoming Demna Gvasalia and Nicolas Ghesquière. More importantly, Balenciaga’s parent group, Kering, is one of the world’s two leading luxury groups, and gives every indication of having its act together. Lanvin, approaching the employment pool with far less business-side credibility, has begun to project disarray. Will Shaw-Lan Wang find a replacement for Elbaz? Of course, and probably one with plenty of promise — there are legions of more designers than there are high-profile jobs out there.
Yet Alber’s is an imposing shadow, not least because he found and charmed for the house a previously nonexistent customer, appealing to her not only with beautiful clothes, but with a genuine emotional connection. Now, he wonders if the industry continues to have her essential interests at heart, a consideration he will take to his next situation, whatever and wherever that might be. “How do we deal with all of it,” he wondered during our preview. “A question. Just a question.”

 

[Benn98]

Ok, this is spiraling way out of control now. I'm sorry, but I think it's time everybody accept that Alber will no longer be at Lanvin. Employees, politicians, customers, the lot. This isn't the first time a brand is disposing of their creative head. Do they seriously believe everything will be hunky dory once he's reinstated at the house? What's more, I'm beginning to find it preposterous that a politician is trying to dictate Wang on what to do. This is her business, she should be allowed to go about it as she see fit, especially if she's following the proper channels. Why couldn't she sack him?

I do not recall the same backlash when Nicolas departed from Balenciaga, and that was equally messy......

 

[MyNameIs]

Ok, this is spiraling way out of control now. I'm sorry, but I think it's time everybody accept that Alber will no longer be at Lanvin. Employees, politicians, customers, the lot. This isn't the first time a brand is disposing of their creative head. Do they seriously believe everything will be hunky dory once he's reinstated at the house? What's more, I'm beginning to find it preposterous that a politician is trying to dictate Wang on what to do. This is her business, she should be allowed to go about it as she see fit, especially if she's following the proper channels. Why couldn't she sack him?

I do not recall the same backlash when Nicolas departed from Balenciaga, and that was equally messy......

Thank you. This over the top reaction is ridiculous. These people need to get some perspective.

 

[Lola701]

^^
Something that the article doesn't tell is that this situation happens at a moment when we are having some serious political/social issues in France regarding employement, HR...etc.
So a ex-minister commenting the subject seems ridiculous but it's acutally relevant to what is happening here.

And remember, Nicolas was forced to leave. He wasn't fired.

But it's quite obvious that he will never comeback to Lanvin.

 

[MyNameIs]

And remember, Nicolas was forced to leave. He wasn't fired.

What's getting fired if not being forced to leave?