Message of this collection: "Now imagine what I can do with the Balenciaga atelier expertise... Easy one but well received and well done."
Overall I'm less enthusiastic than I was for his amazing spring collection. But it is pretty good. I’m not a fan of the first looks though. I was a bit perplexed at the beginning because it didn't feel like him. I find it a bit clumsy. I'm not convinced by those long gloves neither by the socks-covered shoes nor by the awful bags. And the show could've been better edited.
But when it works, it works well, and I mean really well. The final looks with the pants, the volume tops and the cut-outs screamed Balenciaga but he did them perfectly with his own vocabulary. The fabric, the allure... it was less sci-fi (like Nicolas) but more urban, comfy and approachable but also tomboyish. Again you find his key inspirations like the US football/jersey references with those strong shoulders and protective volumes as well the superb skin revealing with those sexy open backs.
I also love his take on the silhouette this season: really playing with the proportions, dropping the waist, making the silhouette more fluid but also quite rigid at the same time through the boxiness and heaviness of the outerwear. Very interesting.
Yet what really please me this time is his more refined and dare I say elegant outfits. There's definitely a certain attempt at presenting some serious eveningwear. Still in a Wang way of course: that is downtown and comfortable enough to dance all-night but elegant enough to go to serious parties. I'm talking those beautiful pants, the pants+skirts (I'll never be thankful enough to Raf Simons for bring the pants back in eveningwear and affirming skirt-pants combo), the beautiful low waist tops too. It was serious eveningwear and it was very beautiful. I wouldn't mind seeing it on a red carpet at all, quit e the opposite actually. I also love some of the daywear looks. There is this black or navy skirt with some kind of mosaic embroideries that is absolutely amazing. The grey sweater on Megan Collison is also TDF. And speaking of to die for, the black pumps are pure Wang shoegasm. Last but not least the outerwear was really good. It actually helped me find the direction of the collection, that is this kind of neo-cave woman like an ubber stylish Nemo or natural disaster survivor.