Alexander Wang F/W 2024.25 New York

The casting is nice. I've always had a soft spot for Slick Woods, great to see her back.
 
There was also very randomly Paris Jackson and I'm dying for Omahyra closing.

Just realized, we're not supposed to talk about the casting here, only about the collection. Sorry @aracic , sorry @justaguy 😕
 
it feels awkward and cynical instead of sexy and edgy
 
I love it. Badass leather, denim and sporty pieces. The final dress is a killer.

This has more energy and design than all the tasteful beige sht luxury houses are churning out recently.

Now I need to check his site to see the men's stuff.
 
Jacquemus in 10 years?
Alex Wang was selling NY downtown in Blacks
Jacquemus is selling South of France in Whites
Both make very basic clothes with tons of hype celebs pr marketing
Jacquemus has one thing for him: he sells an aspirational lifestyle. That idea of a life of leisure, that ongoing feeling of vacation that has a more lasting power than « the cool chic ».
Alexander Wang girls (who are my generation) grew. They are married or live a much more calm lifestyle. The cool chic may have become more conservative, have a different meaning of what cool means. Unfortunately, Wang does not.
I think the Wang girl goes to Altuzarra or even to PS.

So there’s something démode in his woman, by him. I think the mood of Jacquemus has a more enduring power.

But to be fair, I think with Wang at some point, we talked about his clothes as much as we talked about his aesthetic. With Jacquemus, except for his 2 breakthrough collections, we haven’t talked that much about the clothes.
 
Jacquemus has one thing for him: he sells an aspirational lifestyle. That idea of a life of leisure, that ongoing feeling of vacation that has a more lasting power than « the cool chic ».
Alexander Wang girls (who are my generation) grew. They are married or live a much more calm lifestyle. The cool chic may have become more conservative, have a different meaning of what cool means. Unfortunately, Wang does not.
I think the Wang girl goes to Altuzarra or even to PS.

So there’s something démode in his woman, by him. I think the mood of Jacquemus has a more enduring power.

But to be fair, I think with Wang at some point, we talked about his clothes as much as we talked about his aesthetic. With Jacquemus, except for his 2 breakthrough collections, we haven’t talked that much about the clothes.

I don't think the notion of grunge fashion ever really grew out of style, my guess is that instead of Altuzarra or Proenza Schouler, those kind of customers bought into Rick Owens and Saint Laurent instead, who offered a better and more refined product than Alexander Wang. My personal take on him is that he did terrific (and could still do so!) with more basic, affordable clothes - Jersey, sweatshirts, denim - Essentially his T Alexander Wang line.

Perhaps his case is a good study that it can be a mistake to push for exclusivity while a designer is enjoying a hype moment. It's okay to do a moderate price raise every season within the frame work of what is in reach for that customer. I feel the same about Jacquemus (and Acne) - While his prices are still on average lower than those of most LVMH or Kering-owned brands, they are steadily reaching a level (500€ at average for a blouse, 400€ for a pair of jeans) that is still way above what a middle-market customer can afford. I would assume people who want a piece of Jacquemus will buy a bag, a sun hat or jersey but his more expensive clothes lack a sophistication that you would never doubt with somebody like Alexandre Mattiussi.
 

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