Alexander Wang leaving Balenciaga

[GivenchyHomme]

Delpozo should be the one hired!

He could bring back in the greatest way to the modern days the architectural and gorgeous designs of Cristobal!

That would be awesome! He deserves it.

 

[dodencebt]

Yeah, I am actually glad that he is leaving. He can do much more when focused on his own brand.

 

[donyan]

While I like Wang's own line, his being hired at Balenciaga was pure marketing and slightly cynical, he was never the right person for the job.

 

[HeatherAnne]

A big fat: whateverrrrrrr.

 

[khyrk]

According to market sources, Balenciaga and parent Kering have decided not to renew the contract of the buzzy American designer, precipitating another designer change at one of the most prominent houses in French fashion.

It is understood that the spring 2016 Balenciaga show during Paris Fashion Week, scheduled for Sept. 29 to Oct. 7, will be Wang’s last.

The precise reasons for the separation could not immediately be learned. It is understood that the search for Wang’s successor is in its early stages.

According to one Paris source, Kering is open to considering a lesser-known, hidden talent for the plum post, emboldened by the positive feedback and outpouring of goodwill it had in promoting Gucci insider Alessandro Michele to succeed Frida Giannini at the helm of the Italian brand earlier this year. That could make the guessing game of “who’s next” a more complicated enterprise.

WWD was the first to report on July 3 that a change in creative leadership at Balenciaga was likely as speculation mounted in Paris that Wang would part ways with the French fashion house, which is marking its centenary in 2017. At the time, spokeswomen for Kering and Wang would only say there were discussions between the designer and Balenciaga regarding the renewal of his contract.

As recently as Monday, when Kering reported first-half results, the company toed the same party line. Responding to media inquiries during a conference call, Kering’s chief financial officer Jean-Marc Duplaix told journalists that “there are ongoing discussions and I won’t comment further.”

Wang was hired in December 2012 as the successor to Nicolas Ghesquière, who exited after a stellar 15-year tenure and subsequently joined Louis Vuitton.

As recently as last March, ahead of a fashion show attended by Lady Gaga, Balenciaga touted accelerating double-digit growth, with Wang telling WWD: “I feel we’re already a globally recognized house, and a top luxury leader. We’re well on our way.”

Market sources estimate Balenciaga generates revenues north of 350 million euros, or $387.2 million at current exchange rates, and is profitable.

Wang and Balenciaga chief executive officer Isabelle Guichot at the time described a host of development plans for the company, citing men’s wear and knitwear among chief growth opportunities. Guichot said the double-digit gains last year were fueled by “almost all categories, from retail and a very healthy wholesale business.” Balenciaga counts about 500 wholesale doors in the world.

More than half of company revenues stem from directly owned retail, a threshold reached last year, when it closed out the calendar with about 90 freestanding stores and shops-in-shop — a quantum leap from the three stores it had seven years ago.

The brand added about 10 stores in 2014, and also has a program of refurbishments, enlargements and relocations. Key openings this year include a boutique in Florence.

Balenciaga also touted itself as an important player in women’s footwear, and trumpeted progress in the leather goods category, building beyond historic “pillars” like the motorcycle bag, which was launched 15 years ago. Newer styles like the Cable, Le Dix and Nude bags are seen as driving the business now.

Telegraphing the brand’s importance to Kering, Balenciaga is to move to the luxury and sporting goods conglomerate’s new headquarters in Kering’s forthcoming headquarters in a complex boasting a series of 17th-century stone buildings in cross formations. The Laennec complex was seen as a natural fit as most of Balenciaga’s operations were already located on the Left Bank, offices scattered on streets in the vicinity of its Rue Cassette showroom, once the site of its fashion shows.

About 250 employees are to be based at the new complex, including the design studio, atelier and showrooms.

A designer in the edgy fashion mold of Ghesquière, but with a streetwise twist, Wang is one of the darlings of the American fashion scene with his music-scene buddies, groovy T-shirts, studded handbags and high-impact fashion shows. He brought his flair for showmanship to Balenciaga, staging one show on a glass platform under which roiled dark smoke. He also imbued the brand with a darker, Goth-tinged mood, mostly designing clothes in black and white.

Separately, sources said Wang has been quietly seeking an investor for his privately held namesake brand, and may feel tugged between responsibilities at both businesses, as reported.

Wang’s likely exit at Balenciaga comes as Kering focuses on the ongoing turnaround at Gucci under Michele and that company’s ceo Marco Bizzarri. On Monday, Kering said Gucci saw organic sales rise 4.6 percent in the three months to June 30, largely exceeding consensus expectations for a 3.2 percent decline. Overall, Kering reported a 13 percent drop in net earnings to 489.2 million euros, or $541.1 million, in the first six months of 2015, while sales jumped 22.8 percent in the second quarter to 2.86 billion euros, or $3.16 billion.

The impending change at Balenciaga also will come as a new executive takes over as ceo of Kering’s luxury couture and leather goods emerging brands, which include Balenciaga as well as Brioni, Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Stella McCartney and Tomas Maier. Kering on Monday named former Unilever executive Grita Loebsack to the post, effective Sept. 14. The ceos of the six companies in the emerging brands group will now report to Loebsack.

wwd.

 

[narcyza]

Nice suprise.

 

[Steddycam91]

All of these heritage houses and the perpetual game of designer musical chairs just makes me realize how annoying it is that these houses have to still be in business. Wouldn't it be great if we could just let some of these old houses respectfully be put to rest, so that a new generation of labels could have the opportunity to really build and flourish? Because honestly, what's the point of keeping Balenciaga alive and having different designers temporarily trotted out as its new "creative director"? It all comes from purely financial incentives, of course.

 

[Pricciao]

If you can make a cash cow out of it and don't bother to deal with firing staffs and lawsuits, yes you are going to run the game as long as it can be. It's a rich people prison.

 

[MulletProof]

All of these heritage houses and the perpetual game of designer musical chairs just makes me realize how annoying it is that these houses have to still be in business. Wouldn't it be great if we could just let some of these old houses respectfully be put to rest, so that a new generation of labels could have the opportunity to really build and flourish? Because honestly, what's the point of keeping Balenciaga alive and having different designers temporarily trotted out as its new "creative director"? It all comes from purely financial incentives, of course.

This!. Investors could also find new channels too, they're a well known game but not the only one. It's sad it's very few designers out there the ones that can create a label and survive in it, even when they're trying everyone still makes it sound like the top prize is to finally enter a big old house.

Anyway, Alexander for Balenciaga gave me so much anxiety , glad it's over...although I'm thinking that he was deemed a bad decision for trying to design Balenciaga, god knows these people at Kering don't really want better.. they were probably hoping for Balenciaga for Alexander Wang just like at Saint Laurent, and to sell Alexander's usual dirty-looking jersey dresses like pancakes. Oops.

 

[george5]

We all saw Wang’s departure coming sooner than later and the idea to give this job to someone with pretty basic ideas, knowledge and expertise on Couture would lead to flat and poorly developed collections and that’s how it happened but, hopefully Wang will do something useful with the experience He gained at Balenciaga.

Now I’m wondering who will take over the house. I totally forgot about Joseph Font, He seems a great fit but I don’t think He’ll leave DelPozo now. Maybe a new, unknown talent ?

 

[StoneSkipper]

Meh. He always felt like some kind of placeholder - "Hey, I'll just hold the line until we get someone better". Not really crying over it, but I wish him the best in his future endeavors.

Delpozo should be the one hired!

He could bring back in the greatest way to the modern days the architectural and gorgeous designs of Cristobal!

On one hand, yes, I believe he would make something beautiful there. But, on the other hand, his work is already kind of retro-ish, so I fear he'd do just a rehash of the archives. Plus, he's doing magic at Delpozo and I want him to continue doing so.

About new designers... I think Esteban Cortazar would do a great job at the helm. Maybe Matthieu Blazy or Melitta Baumeister? Dare I say Rosie Assoulin, even?

 

[zacatecas570]

Del Pozo would be amazing, probably the guys from Proenza Schouler ??

 

[orchidee]

Not surprising. I never got the sense that Wang himself was that passionate about being at Balenciaga. His work for his own line is much better and I think he should focus on that.

Kering is such a mess. I feel like they are extremely shortsighted when it comes to hiring designers. They are more interested in making an immediate profit rather than giving room to slowly develop a major talent who can then help the brand grow sustainably.

 

[jescajade]

Finally! I heard the rumours a few weeks back, it was inevitable from the beginning it was just a matter of when. Alexander Wang has been there since 2012, I think Kering gave him a longer chance than many other designers have been given, Wang has been a disaster, the "double-digit gains" are coming from Nicolas Ghesquière's designs the city bags and the cut-out boots they keep reproducing.
I'm looking forward to seeing who takes over, Christopher Kane was mentioned when Ghesquière left, but it looks like they're going to go for a low profile designer like Alessandro Michele at Gucci. Good news to say the least.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

I was most likely one of the very few who liked him at Balenciaga, and liked what he showed. He could have lasted longer, but its not a situation to cry over!

Will be interesting to see who they get next, and how long they last. I knew once they fired Nicholas those would be big shoes to fill!

 

[Lola701]

I'm kinda surprised by Kering. So because the reboot of Gucci is working, they are going to do the same with all their brands? Come on!

This is a good news for Wang & Balenciaga. He is a better designer in a technical level and can push his own brand in the next level. He wasn't good at Balenciaga and the results were poor considering his high profile and the buzz generated.
They have lost most of Ghesquiere clientele and the accessories and stronger than the RTW now. But these accessories were designed under NG: the infamous Bags, the sneakers, the shoes. The motorcycle jacket is still a best seller.

They should give Balenciaga to Christopher Kane. I like him but i wonder who is wearing his clothes. And while he is talented, he doesn't have a real vision to have his own fashion house. He showed us that he can work well with a "major brand" (Versace/Versus).
He can give what Balenciaga needs right now: creativity! And maybe, he will gain a new relevance.

 

[Steddycam91]

Balenciaga was a visionary, and Wang is plainly not that. He's a very keen and clever businessman who makes great, dynamic sportswear that people want to wear. There's serious value in that, seeing how consistently successful his own brand is. But nothing that he does comes from a wildly creative, idiosyncratic place. Listening to him discuss his collections has always been a drag: "this season we wanted to explore the idea of aggression" or "we thought a lot about the duality of formality and restraint." And it never feels like he's saying these broad statements because he's keeping his true inspirations up his sleeve. It just seems that his approach to designing is to constantly revamp and retool classic sportswear staples. The results are often cool, but never groundbreaking or emotional.

 

[TheoG]

A decent duration, some good hits. As mention by others, I never was wowed by his work at Balenciaga -- it was nice but lacked depth, he harvest too much on the recent work. Ultimately I have notion that maybe Wang left on his own behave to focus on his label which is wise because its growing. But knowing Kering and their history anything is possible.

Curious to see who they plan on choosing to fill the position, someone in house? Its working for Gucci. I always pictured Pedro Lourenço at the house, but his work resembles Ghesquière seeing that happen is a stretch.

 

[perhydrol]

Kane's sense of humour is just too 'geeky' for Balenciaga and I want him to focus only on his own line. It's getting better and he shouldn't be divided between London and Paris.
Del Pozo's guy is really good as a designer, but I don't see him at Balenciaga at all. But still it's been like "hey, he's awesome, let's put him in some random house" here.
Someone mentioned Mathieu Blazy. He's at Céline so we can forget about that. And really, his aesthetic is not even close to Cristóbal's. The same with Font's one.
What about that girl from Paco Rabanne? What's her name, Lydia Maurer? She would be really good imho.

 

[Jacque Marcel]

I actually liked some of Wang's Balenicaga. It wasn't all great but he had big shoes to fill and the fashion press was out for blood. But I do think having his house and Balenciaga was too much at times.