Alexander Wang leaving Balenciaga

[GreyVetiver]

I would kill to see Stefano Pilati at Balenciaga.

Ditto! Though it seems almost impossible...

 

[Steddycam91]

On the other hand, I wasn't expecting the switch to happen this soon.

Seriously. He will have put out SIX catwalk collections in his tenure at the house. Whether it's sales or the general disposition of Kering and/or Wang, something must have seriously went wrong.

 

[george5]

Seriously. He will have put out SIX catwalk collections in his tenure at the house. Whether it's sales or the general disposition of Kering and/or Wang, something must have seriously went wrong.

Sales were ok, but seems like there were other kind of troubles: Kering wanted a bigger commercial success, Wang wasn’t very interested and supposedly He didn’t get along with the chief excecutive. Vanessa Friedman wrote an article were She explains it a bit better:

Alexander Wang, Balenciaga and the Dismaying Trend of Leaks

July 29, 2015

Is Alexander Wang leaving Balenciaga? No one will say flat out he isn’t. They won’t even call it idle gossip. Designers in Paris have reported being approached for Mr. Wang’s job.

Women’s Wear Daily published the news on Wednesday and attributed it to unnamed “market sources.” Kering, Balenciaga’s parent company, would say only, as they did on the H1 results conference call on Monday, that contract discussions were underway. Executives at Mr. Wang’s company simply repeated the Kering line.

Yet gossip translated to gospel in the space of a few hours, with headlines ranging from speculative (“Is it the end of the road for Alexander Wang?” asks The Telegraph) to definitive (“Alexander Wang Leaving Balenciaga,” declares Harper’s Bazaar).

Kering has had lots of opportunities to squash the rumor, but has not. The inference is that is because the hearsay is correct.

But it is also an example of a dismaying trend now rampant in the fashion world, in which designer change is announced via a leak, not officially confirmed, and left to fester in the ether with no one willing to be accountable for the news until the fashion world, with its minute attention span, has moved on. So when it is announced, everyone shrugs and says, “Oh, yeah, we knew that.”

It happened last autumn with Peter Copping, who, it had been leaked but not confirmed in September, was said to be leaving Nina Ricci to join Oscar de la Renta. (He ultimately did, in October.) It happened in February with Peter Dundas, who, it had been leaked but not confirmed, was leaving Pucci to join Roberto Cavalli. (He did, the next month.) And it happened last January with Alessandro Michele, who, it had been leaked but not confirmed, was going to be the next creative director of Gucci. (He was, about three weeks later.)

Who does this benefit? Perhaps the company, as it diffuses the impact of a designer’s departure. But in reality, I think no one. All it leads to is more speculation on what could be the reasons for the rumors.

Certainly, I have heard a lot when it comes to Balenciaga, ranging from lack of commercial impetus (it’s hard to know, as Kering does not break out Balenciaga’s results, but includes it in an “other luxury brands” category in its financial reporting); to the difficulty of one designer bridging not only two brands, but two countries and two time zones; to interpersonal friction between Mr. Wang and Isabelle Guichot, the Balenciaga chief executive.

The one I give most credence to, however, has to do with an imminent minority outside investment in Mr. Wang’s eponymous label, and the related need for him to focus on that in order to most effectively leverage the new money to grow. The label has been talking to various financial and private entities for the last year, according to a source close to the negotiations, and has narrowed the pool down to one.

If someone is about to give you a bunch of money, they want to know you are going to be fully committed to their investment. That’s a powerful impetus for change. And perhaps Kering wasn’t powerfully interested in holding on to Mr. Wang. He never bought an apartment in Paris, after all.

But when it comes to Balenciaga, which will have lost two designers in three years — Nicolas Ghesquière, Mr. Wang’s predecessor, left in late 2012 — such speculation can’t be productive. After all, lose one, and maybe shame on that person. Lose two, and it starts to look like shame on you.

Not to mention that it casts an odd light on the collections created by the unofficially leaving designer. If the brand is presumed to be not committed to him (or he to it), why should retailers and consumers be committed to his collections? Mr. Wang is still due to design the Balenciaga spring/summer line, to be shown in Paris in September. But assuming it’s his last hurrah, it will feel more like a coda.

Add that to the fact that, as Thomas Chauvet, a luxury equity analyst at Citibank pointed out, when a brand changes designers, it often takes six to nine months for its revenues to recover.

“It is a shame if Alexander Wang is being replaced because it will take another 12 months to get a new creative direction and products, and there was already a long gap after Ghesquiere left in 2013,” he said. “At the same time, Kering management is perhaps not satisfied with the commercial results of the brand under Wang as opposed to continued success of Stella and McQueen.”

Wouldn’t it be cleaner and more professional to simply man (or woman) up, and acknowledge what is going on?

Clearly Kering did not plan for this news to be revealed at this time. They were probably hoping to hold it until just before or after the show. No large conglomerate likes to be forced into doing something they don’t want to do. It’s annoying.

Besides, it was only Monday that Kering named Grita Loebsack as chief executive of its luxury, couture and leather goods emerging brands business — a group that includes Balenciaga — and she doesn’t start until Sept. 14. Ideally, appointing a new designer at one of her brands should be part of her job. Instead, she’ll be playing catch-up.

Still, now that Mr. Wang’s departure seems a fait accompli, and both Balenciaga and its parent company have repeatedly failed to squash the idea, it seems a mistake that they don’t get out in front of the story. It’s not a good look.

nytimes.com

 

[Lola701]

It looks like another messy affair of a designer leaving a Kering brand. Tom Ford, Frida Giannini, Stefano Pilati, Nicolas Ghesquière...
Sarah Burton, Alessandro Michele and who ever come after Alexander Wang must be prepared.

 

[ThatRascal]

Personally, I think it's great that Wang is leaving and will focus solely on his label. He's doing great and with new investment, can only get better. I'm not a fan of the T by Wang and Jeans lines, but I get the commercial value and therefore the reason for them. These big conglomerates aren't as invested in their designers anymore, especially Kering who has a reputation for it.

 

[anlabe32]

I liked his Balenciaga.

But i'm interested in seeing who's next. Pilati would be a dream but I don't think it will happen (it's Kering anyway).

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I liked his Balenciaga.

But i'm interested in seeing who's next. Pilati would be a dream but I don't think it will happen (it's Kering anyway).

I'd like to see a season pro go in, but not exactly a known name. Maybe someone who has been around but kept under the radar.

Tired of these kids who don't know anything.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

fashion and its revolving doors...
i really respect those houses that can hold onto more integrity. it's easy to lose interest otherwise. sigh...

 

[Miss Dalloway]

I'd like to see a season pro go in, but not exactly a known name. Maybe someone who has been around but kept under the radar.

I second this suggestion, if they were smart its what they would do!

 

[donyan]

I'd like to see a season pro go in, but not exactly a known name. Maybe someone who has been around but kept under the radar.

Tired of these kids who don't know anything.

exactly my thoughts! But that would be the exact opposite of what hey did with Alexander Wang, and I doubt they have that kind of vision. Like when they gave Jil Sander to Raf Simons, that kind of creative decision

 

[boykidlat]

I liked his menswear! I hope they get Pilati or Theyskens maybe, but that's just me being selfish and wanting my faves fo replace him

 

[TheoG]

^ Love the idea of both Pilati or Theyskens, but I get the notion they don't necessarily want it... well Pilati mostly.

Chitose Abe and Julien Dossena names being tossed around, I feel indifferent about both of them. I think they both are doing great job at their own spots. Abe under Balenciaga would be neat though.

 

[Marc10]

They won't go for someone like Dossena imo. They want a clean slate for Ghesquière's aesthetic, a rebranding of all sorts. I don't see Chitose either, but I do love the idea of a woman taking over. A lot of people saying Rosie Assoulin too, but I don't think she's she commercial enough to pull it off.

I still think they'll go for a very under the radar name.

 

[Steddycam91]

What about Haider Ackermann or Alexandre Vaulthier? Those are two designers that would definitely bring an entirely new vision to the brand.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Alessandro Michele has changed the game completely so I honestly believe that the Ghesquière/Celine aesthetic may be reaching it's end. They won't go for the NG type and that will be a wise decision on Kering's behalf. Things really need to start moving forward, and fresh blood seems like the only logical option these days.

 

[MyNameIs]

Alessandro Michele has changed the game completely so completely.

How do you figure? I'm not doubting you, just curious. I'm also hoping it's not true, lol.

 

[Lola701]

^^
I also really wonder how. His collection just hit the shops so we can't say that he changed the game.

At Kering, they don't have to follow the Saint Laurent formula or anything close. They should just look at LVMH and maybe all the successful brands around. You need a strong personality. Nobody wants or need another Saint Laurent or another Celine. The originals do it better anyway. You need creativity and creatives needs to create and to have a TOTAL CREATIVE CONTROL!

And after all, it's not a matter of aesthetic. Influencial designers of those last 15 years will always be influencial. Celine from 2015 is anything close to what it was 5 years ago in terms of fashion but the clothes still speaks.

Today, we (women) want separates and above all, we want to see the clothes we saw on the runway, in the shops.

They wanted to fight the Lariat and all of the NG's products but they are part of the DNA now.

Kering needs a strong creative force with a real point of view. Most of the people under NG left with him.
I really believe that Christopher Kane is the best choice for them at this moment.

 

[Steddycam91]

Alessandro Michele has changed the game completely so I honestly believe that the Ghesquière/Celine aesthetic may be reaching it's end. They won't go for the NG type and that will be a wise decision on Kering's behalf. Things really need to start moving forward, and fresh blood seems like the only logical option these days.

Yeah, I don't get this assertion either. His clothes have literally just hit the shop floor. And if you'll notice, the "Ghesquière/Celine aesthetic" has grown and evolved a lot within the last few years. Nicolas' work at LV is not the same as it was during his tenure at Balenciaga, and Phoebe's recent output is miles away from what she started out doing at Céline.

And I like a lot of Michele's work at Gucci so far, but how on earth has it "changed the game completely"? It's many things but it's not particularly original-- what I see are clothes that would slot in quite nicely alongside the likes of Prada, Marni, Dries Van Noten, and so on.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

What about Haider Ackermann or Alexandre Vaulthier? Those are two designers that would definitely bring an entirely new vision to the brand.

I would be so ready for a Haider Ackermann take on Balenciaga

 

[boykidlat]

Did Alexander Wang Improve Balenciaga?

Alexander Wang has left Balenciaga after only three years at the helm of the storied French house. A short tenure, considering that Nicolas Ghesquière spent 15 years at the head of the nearly century-old label prior to moving onto Louis Vuitton. Additionally, Marc Jacobs spent 15 years at Louis Vuitton prior to Ghesquière, while John Galliano spent 15 years at Christian Dior and Riccardo Tisci has helmed Givenchy for 10 years. Wang’s short-lived Balenciaga career seems to suggest that he wasn’t able to make his mark on the legacy of the revered high fashion house.

The now-31-year-old Alexander Wang was appointed creative director in 2012, after news broke that Ghesquière was headed to Louis Vuitton. Capping off a stellar stint that solidified Ghesquière’s reputation as a bona fide high fashion designer, many were shocked and baffled that a contemporary downtown designer — who was relatively new on the fashion scene with his eponymous brand only five years old — was selected to helm a luxury French name. At the time, Wang became the first American name to head a heritage French label in over a decade, and the first since the recession to run two houses concurrently. While the pair seemed an incongruous match, Balenciaga has stated that he was always their number one choice for the post. Now that it’s over, and decidedly short-lived in its 10 collections, what did Alexander Wang achieve at Balenciaga?

Accelerated Growth
One might presume that the split may be due to lackluster numbers, but that’s definitely not the case. Both parties maintain that it was a joint decision, and while there are a plenitude of speculations over the true reasons behind the split, declining sales or revenue is not the case. Rumors aside, Alexander Wang’s time at the French house has seen progressive growth, and in fact, explosive growth over the past year. The luxury brand finished 2014 posting double-digit growth, a feat in itself. While at the same time, store openings have remained apace. However, according to Thomas Chauvet, an analyst covering luxury goods at Citi Investment Research, the growth at Balenciaga was slower than that of other similar brands in Kering’s portfolio of luxury labels, which perhaps was a consideration in the break up. For Wang’s namesake label the decision to do two brands has also resulted in positive numbers. The Alexander Wang company has been growing by approximately 20 percent a year for the last three years, with a recent London outpost opened — the biggest Alexander Wang flagship and its first in Europe.

His Translated Aesthetic
During Wang’s reign at Balenciaga, he introduced a new signature bag (Le Dix) and a signature fragrance, among an expanded emphasis on knitwear. Although his short stint perhaps didn’t allow him to leave an iconic mark, Wang did permeate his signature aesthetic into the regal brand, offering something that better balances the casual with the tailored. Kering’s aim in hiring Wang was to “imbue a sense of modernity and youthful energy to the house” which was completely successful. Wang also helped Balenciaga find its footing in menswear, now counting several standalone menswear stores worldwide. Following Ghesquière’s departure — whose tenure effectively defined what Balenciaga is known for in modern day, Wang’s designs were not as memorable, not to say that they weren’t great. According to Briget Foley of WWD, “[Wang] provided something of a palette-cleanser that may allow the next designer in to work more freely, beyond the shadow of Ghesquière.”

Widened Audience
Although Wang’s tenure didn’t result in anything overtly memorable or spectacular, his reputation did open up a whole new audience whose eyes were suddenly focused on Balenciaga. With a cult-like following from the enormous success of his eponymous brand, Wang’s surprise appointment to the high fashion house brought a widened audience that suddenly included those more urban and streetwise, in addition to the high fashion consumers that already existed. People who would never have been clothed in Balenciaga were suddenly into its elevated looks. Subsequently, existing fans of the house were given a break from the legacy that Ghesquière left and the obsession that ensued, which was refreshing. So the partnership may have been a strategic move on the brand’s behalf, but Wang was also a mutual beneficiary.

“It’s like a whole other area of my brain has opened up. How do you turn that off? I can’t imagine it at all”
Alexander Wang’s appointment proved to a largely skeptical and haughty fashion industry that the scrawny San Francisco-New York Parson’s dropout could succeed within high fashion. Working with his own Parisian atelier, Wang has been taken much more seriously as a bona fide designer with a legacy to match. His heightened reputation did wonders for his eponymous brand, which shot up from being another contemporary label into an authentic label with more legitimacy. This elevated reputation shows, with more celebrities choosing to wear Wang on the red carpet and as mentioned, growing numbers to match.

Individual Growth
Additionally, his appointment brought up the longstanding debate about whether one person could effectively and successfully helm two brands, and in the case of Wang’s tenure — a third if you include his Alexander Wang x H&M collaboration amid a multitude of smaller collections within the brands. It’s been done before and still is (Karl Lagerfeld designs for Chanel, Fendi and his eponymous brand), but living as a dual citizen jetting between New York and Paris definitely takes its toll. However, after Wang’s appointment, many other young designers took on dual roles including Jonathan Anderson at Loewe and Jeremy Scott at Moschino. According to the designer in a New York Times interview, “I felt like I had another voice inside me…but while this is my passion and I have devoted myself to it, I am not going to *********** for it,” but at the same time, Wang also feels that “it’s like a whole other area of my brain has opened up. How do you turn that off? I can’t imagine it at all.” His choice of words were telling, and Wang’s departure from Balaenciaga is attributable to his want to focus solely on his namesake brand.

But to answer the question, whether or not Mr. Wang improved Balenciaga, it’s subjective to how you define “improve,” however both camps certainly profited from the partnership. So maybe the Wang-helmed Balenciaga was short-lived, but its benefits to both parties have resulted in indispensable rewards, especially in the case of Wang. Whether or not he left on his own terms (with many speculating that his departure is due to an imminent investment), both brands are left better off. Alexander Wang can now refocus on his true passion — his own label, while Balenciaga will again revisit the drawing board to find a fitting replacement to take the baton from the youthful creative director. Wang’s last show for Balenciaga will be on October 2.

Source:Hypebeast **** EDITED **** Please do not post links in your source.