All About Becoming a Fashion / Wardrobe Stylist

[BetteT]

Hey BetteT,

I wanted to introduce myself, i think i posted in here before not sure but im Luis and am a aspiring wadrobe stylist in NYC. I took a fashion styling class for a month so far and we just did our big shoot, the pictures came out great and i recieved everyone's contact info in addition ive also made buisness cards for myself. I was brought onboard with a friend to style his music video shoot. I dont know the circumstances around this yet but he has had meetings with record companies etc. the purpose of this is id love to pull clothing for this shoot but i dont know how to go about this when i have just one shoot in my portfolio. In addition to this though Ive completed 2 internships and have a stable retail job. I am wondering if its possible to meet with some boutique owners and explain to them my query. another problem with this is sadly i am only 17 and a senior in HS but i am so serious and eager into breaking into this that i keep working hard at it.

thanks again

Hi luis,


Some random thoughts ... not as positive as you would hope, I know but it's the cold hard facts about becoming a stylist:

Didn't they teach how to pull (pull letters, contracts, financial responsibility, who pays for damages, inventories) in your class? The business end of it is more important than the talent and portfolio. That's why I say that most of these classes do not prepare students to do this, at all ... they only teach enough to make student think this is fun and easy. And they take your money for what? A few pictures? It's fun being a stylist sometimes, but easy ... it's not.

Until you are 18, you don't have the legal capacity to sign contracts and agreements with stores and such ... they cannot enforce it. So there is a stong possibilty that you will have to find someone else to sign for you and provide a financial backing (usually you will have to leave a credit card number), in case something happens to the clothes ... whether your are renting or just borrowing. Unless they don't notice that you are young ... and they are not experienced in lending for shoots ... then you might pull it off. But have your credit card ready ... most of them will want that.

Videos pay nothing to almost nothing, even after you are experienced. I'd re-consider working in that genre. I've heard horror stories ... from new makeup artists and stylists .... just so you know.

The money is in advertising (catalogs, ads, promo peices, mailers, labels, etc. ... boring stuff) ... which means you need do things in print for your portfolio. It will take you at least 2 years to get enough stuff that is good enough to begin to compete with all those other working stylists. So look for testing gigs and local magazine shoots with really good photographers who are using only professional models.

Oh ... and never buy the line that "As soon as we make it, we can start paying you." That never happens for a couple of reasons ... the first is that they know that you are free or cheap ... so when they get money they will want to upgrade to a "better" stylist (as in one who actually charges a reasonable fee for services). And if they get signed, their manager will insist that they use a specific stylist ... one of his or the record company's choice. Your friends won't hold out for you ... they can't afford to alienate the label. It always works that way.

So ... you have to ask youself on any gig you do ... if I'm not getting paid, what's in it for me? Experience? Good ... we learn from experience. Contacts? Building your rep? Maybe ... but remember, they see you as the cheap /free stylist, so that rep will stick to you like glue. Something for your portfolio? ... yes, if it's got a good chance of being a lot better than what you already have. Something for your reel ... the same, if you plan on working in videos ... or in films, which is a whole other thing and even harder to get into than print or videos.

Get your focus ... decide what genre you want to work in and do some research about what you need to do to get there. You can't cross over in the beginning ... that comes later, after you get a good rep as a great stylist.




Back to the video: Boutiques probably won't be interested in lending wardrobe for a video taping, especially if it's just a spec thing that is not being paid for by a major label. They need to get something in return. Videos rarely really provide any free advertising for them ... so it's not likely that they will be interested. But the only way you can find out is to ask. You whoud go in armed with information for them ..... a pull letter, see earlier in this thread), some sort of proof from whoever is producing this video about who is in it (anyone they would know?) and what the producer would be willing to do for them (maybe give them a copy, credit them on the cover, etc.).

Boutiques may agree to rent some pieces, you may rent it wardrobe at studio costume houses if you are in a major city ... or you can arrange through most department store "studio services" dept. to pulll stuff ... but they will charge about 20% of what you pull, so the producer will have to either buy some stuff or pick up the tab.

You will need a wardrobe budget from someone and I would be willing to bet that these guys don't have any money. If they did, they'd hire an experienced stylist whos got all the contacts, who's work is well known and give that stylist a reasonable budget. Fact of life. They won't pay you and will expect you to come up with wardrobe out of thin air .. as if you have a closet full of all the stuff they want.


Don't want to put a damper on your excitement ... but you need to realize what is involved here ... it's a very challenging and competative business. 80% business and 20% creative.

As I recommended to the poster above ... read the entire thread. You'll learn a lot more than your class ever taught you. You will be able to decide if this is realy what you want to put all the energy into.

 

[lbraga412]

Thanks for the advice betteT, i see that it does take time and consideration to go into this buisness but I think ill enjoy it rather well..

more questions if you dont mind

but how do we go about getting test shoots? Should be pay a photographer for a test shoot? (my prof refrenced someone who charges 150$ but in her words provides everything except clothing) as far as resources ive made a model mayhem website but is there somewhere else i should look? I turn 18 in April so i want to be prepared as ever. Im off on holiday so im going to read the thread fully.


As far as the video goes im not expecting much either, its just to help a friend out and im not footing any costs...im making that very clear.


Thanks again!

 

[BetteT]

Helping a friend is always a good thing! Especially if he would do the same for you.

Here's a thread that you should read: About Your Portfolio and Testing, for Freelance Stylists, Hair/Makeup Artists etc. More specific info there.

Don't pay for a test ... you'll end up working with a second rate photographer who isn't good enough to do anything excpet charge others to test. A test needs to be a colaboration with a talented team with a stong vision and you must all be on the same page. There are plenty of talented people, just starting out who need to test too ... and will need a stylist to improve the overall results.

You can start with ModelMayhem photographers, but soooo many of them are just horrible so be very selective and also be careful about your safety. Try Musecube too ... they seem to attract a bit better caliber of photographer sometimes. You do not want to work with togs who do "glamour" stuff or just headshots ... you want someone who can deliver a decent fashion image and works with fashion models (or, in the beginning, models who have a strong fashion look) ... not glamour /web models who are "sexy". Your team must have a talented makeup /hair artist too ... it takes all 4 to get a decent shot ... photographer, stylist, hair/makeup and model.

Hopefully, you have been interested in fashion and fashion magazines long enough that you have developed your eye and know a good shot and a good model when you see them ... so you can identify good photographers, good styling, good models. Probably only one in a hundred on these sort of web sites is good enough to do even a beginning stylist's portfolio justice ... so discriminate about who you test with. The goal of every test should be to work with a better photographer and with better models. Sooner or later, you might be able to present your portfolio to a working fashion or commercial photographer and get his interest in at least testing with you. The better the photographer, the better the models he will be able to get ... you eventually want a photographer who always gets agency models.

 

[Deleted member 103203]

Does anyone know how to get more costume designing internships/ jobs? I just finished costume designing/ styling job for movie a not long ago but I don't know how to keep the ball moving, it's new and weird for me. Thanks!

 

[BetteT]

There's an opp posted here: http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f9...-unpaid-opps-no-comments-please-66727-49.html but it's for a stylist intern.

Costume design ...for films, especially ... you need to know someone. It's that way for almost every craft or service job in the film industry. That's why so many people get in via their family or a friend. Nepotism is rampant in that biz ... it's how it always has been.

 

[linni]

im a stylist, study and work in Milan!
doing some tests here and there,when i have time, to build up a portofolio, wich i think is the most important thing to start with!

 

[gian-franco]

yay, I'm doing my first styling job this weekend! I'm excited! And nervous a bit

 

[maaxzc]

Hi guys, i was wondering, what do you need to study to work as a fashion stylist?

 

[BetteT]

Welcome to the Fashion Spot, linni!

Have a good time on your test, gian-franco ... this is how you learn to be a stylist ... you learn by doing and then must learn to be ruthless in critiqing yourself so you can get better.

maaxzc .... you don't actually "need" to study anything in particular to be a stylist. But I recommend taking some business / entreprenerial classes, because being a freelance stylist is owning a small business more than anything. You need to learn how to market and advertise your services, handle paperwork (inventories, billing, collections, paying taxes, etc.) supervise and pay assistants, and so on. The talent part of it comes from having the eye for proportion, color, texture, having a knowledge of fashion history and of current trends ... so things like art or fashion history classes, any art classes, and even fashion design classes will help you develop your "eye" and stimulate your imagination.

 

[maaxzc]

Thanks for the info Bette

 

[Deleted member 103203]

There's an opp posted here: http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f9...-unpaid-opps-no-comments-please-66727-49.html but it's for a stylist intern.

Costume design ...for films, especially ... you need to know someone. It's that way for almost every craft or service job in the film industry. That's why so many people get in via their family or a friend. Nepotism is rampant in that biz ... it's how it always has been.

Thanks so much for all of your help!

 

[gian-franco]

I have a question - when you are dressing up a model, do you take only the clothes that you know will look good or do you also try dressing them in some looks that you are not sure - they might work or might not. Do you tell them to try on several looks to choose one which fits best or do you know already what exactly are you going to give them to wear? how much time does it take to dress up one model in one look?
I can not really test all the looks on myself, because i'm not model sized... and i'd like to test several looks to see which one is best, but i'm thinking - maybe this would be counted as non professional and as wasting time off all team..?

 

[BetteT]

That what "fittings" are for ... to come up with a plan about what you want to do before the shoot. I can create about 6 looks in an hour ... but it does vary a lot, depending on a lot of factors. It will take a lot longer for an inexperience stylist ... because they have not learned how to judge things without seeing them on a model in advance, so they will probably have to try on a lot more clothes, before they find something that works to their satisfaction.

If you can't schedule that a few days in advance you will need to do it right on set, so allow an hour or two, before the actual shoot starts.

You will have the models' sizes, but you will need to have things in thier sizes plus in larger sizes (some models lie). You can pin and clamp closthes if they are too big, but you can't make them any bigger if they are too small for the model. So always err on the side of being too big.

Also ... you always have to have lot's of other things for back up (both clothes and accessories). Sometimes the photographer, art director or client won't like what you've chosen and will ask to see more. I usually try to have 3 times the amount of clothes/looks needed that I will take with me to the set. It's usually a collaboration ... the stylist almost never makes the final decision.

 

[gian-franco]

thanks!

 

[cygnenoir]

Have you all seen this article? (Especially you working stylists!) Lately I've been thinking of leaving the world of styling and doing something different, but now I learn it's what everyone wants to be. Oh no, now I can't leave!


Why every girl wants to be a fashion stylist
Styling is now a career with the profile, prospects and pay packet that millions of little girls aspire to

http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/fashion/article6957360.ece

December 20, 2009

Every decade has one: a girl’s dream career.

In the 1950s, it was glam to be an air hostess. Come the 1960s, everyone wanted to be a model. Then there were the dream jobs of the 1970s (musician), 1980s (“businesswoman”) and 1990s (working in PR).

And what has emerged as top possible girl’s job of the Noughties? Being a fashion stylist. Previously an insider’s job with little recognition and even less money, styling is now a career with the profile, prospects and pay packet that little girls aspire to. In their millions.

Everyone wants to be a stylist, see a stylist, have a stylist. Careers can be made (see Gwyneth’s Iron Man tour return in signature minidress and skyscraper heels, courtesy of the London-based stylist Maria Serra) or broken (if only Gemma Arterton could get it right) on the red carpet, thanks to outfits chosen by stylists.

Celebrities create whole personae based on their fashion choices (Cheryl Cole and Lady Gaga). Stylists have become celebrities in their own right (Rachel Zoe and Gok Wan), with their own television shows and glamorous lifestyles. And young girls want a piece of the action.

Applications for the London College of Fashion’s foundation degree in styling and photography have doubled in the past year. The college now runs no less than 41 short styling courses for younger girls wanting to get in on the business, although applicants aren’t just learning their skills at school.

Nintendo launched its Style Boutique in October, allowing girls to style a shop, which they did in droves, pushing it up to No 4 in the gaming charts. There are countless iPhone apps — see Stylebook (on which you can upload pictures of your wardrobe, put looks together and share them with friends), iStylist Makeover, Lookz Lite and Stylish Girl for starters. And more than 45m people have signed up to play Stardoll, an online fashion game that lets you buy virtual fashion items with real money to style up your virtual alter ego.

So why the explosion in interest? Ask any top stylist and they will probably tell you they didn’t even know the job existed when they started out. “I remember when I told my mum I was going to be a stylist,” says Sophia Neophitou, editor-in-chief of 10 Magazine and creative and fashion director of Harper’s Bazaar.

“She said, ‘What? You wanna do hair?!’ But it’s actually a credible profession now — and it really can be lucrative.”

Lucrative indeed, with stylists earning up to £5,000 a day for their efforts. Not bad for a job that, 20 years ago, consisted of “being the handmaiden. Literally on her knees, picking up the pins from the floor”, according to Sarah Mower, contributing editor to American Vogue and author of Stylist: The Interpreters of Fashion.

“It all changed in the late 1980s,” she says, “when the names of fashion editors were put on magazine pages. Anna Wintour did it when she first came to edit British Vogue, because she believed they deserved acknowledgement for their work. Then, in the age of the supermodel, the fashion show became a huge great production. You’d sit at a fashion show, and say, ‘Who is the stylist?’, as if that was the key.”

Next, the stylists went to work in-house for designers — take Amanda Harlech at Galliano, then Chanel; and Grace Coddington, who did a stint at Calvin Klein. Suddenly, every celebrity worth a pap flash needed a stylist to dress them for every occasion — from the red carpet to a trip to the shops. “And it’s been a very well-trodden path ever since,” says Mower.

An extremely fruitful one, too, given the careers of the most high profile, such as Carine Roitfeld, editor-in-chief of French Vogue and one-time stylist for Tom Ford in his Gucci heyday. Or Britain’s own Katie Grand, who has styled for everyone from Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton to Miuccia Prada, Calvin Klein and Giles Deacon, and launched three magazines, the latest of which is the Condé Nast biannual fashion bible, Love.

How does she explain the rise of her profession? “My gut feeling is that fashion has stopped being so elitist. People have learnt that fashion can be a multimillion-pound business, and with that you have to have a certain approachability. That ivory tower of the designer in Paris definitely seems to have dissipated.”

There is certainly no ivory tower when it comes to today’s most high-profile stylists — those involved in the lucrative and fast-track world of celebrity styling. Take Rachel Zoe. The American celebrity stylist, known for her work with Lindsay Lohan and Nicole Richie (among other Zoebots, as they’re dubbed), is probably the most famous of the lot — complete with her television show, The Rachel Zoe Project, a weekly global newsletter and, if rumours are to believed, a fashion line to come.

Neophitou says it is the likes of Zoe who encourage young girls to hanker after a career as a stylist: “They see it as glamorous, working with celebrities,” she says, although she is at pains to point out that dressing celebs is not the same thing as directing a photoshoot. “In terms of credibility, that’s something you just don’t want to become. Celebrity stylists seem to ride on the coat-tails of that celebrity.”

Still, it’s a ride with influence. In a recent GQ poll of the 50 most influential people in Washington, DC (secretary of state included), Ikram Goldman, the owner of a high-end designer boutique in Chicago and the woman credited with helping Michelle Obama forge her signature style, came 46th. Lady Gaga, a star born on the back of her outlandish outfits, wouldn’t be where she is today without the help of her friend and collaborator Nicola Formichetti.

Creative director of Dazed & Confused and fashion director of Vogue Hommes Japan, Formichetti is the man responsible for her current looks — from the Gareth Pugh she worked on The X Factor to the Elizabethan-style red latex number she wore to meet the Queen. “Her fashion sense has made her more current, compared to the usual pop star, like Britney or Christina,” he says.

They met when he styled her for V magazine, and they “fell in love”, as he puts it. “I became part of Haus of Gaga, the group of creative people around her. Together, we create her outfits for everything. We come up with tour ideas and music videos. We just shot the Bad Romance video. I put all the fashion credits on my blog, then Gaga twitters about it. It’s like a living fashion magazine.”

It isn’t hard to see the appeal of a career in styling — seemingly steeped in glamour, influence and now money, too. “I think it’s one of the best ways in the world to earn a living,” says Grand. But those hell bent on the impossibly glamorous life of the stylist should beware. “It’s incredibly hard work,” says Neophitou. And even then, your payday isn’t guaranteed. “There are far, far more fashion stylists starving — literally, working for no money — than there are making thousands of pounds a day,” says Mower.

Girls, you have been warned.

timesonline.co.uk

 

[mishahoi]

Oh my god, it's so true. "I`m a stylist" has become the most over-used self-deigned business title of the decade. Everyone and their mother thinks they are a stylist (in the industry, anyway).

I read an old article from 2005 or so in the local Japan Times newspaper that had a quote from a stylist here who said something like "I love styling- but I just can`t afford it"

 

[cygnenoir]

This made me laugh:

Lucrative indeed, with stylists earning up to £5,000 a day for their efforts. Not bad for a job that, 20 years ago, consisted of “being the handmaiden. Literally on her knees, picking up the pins from the floor”, according to Sarah Mower, contributing editor to American Vogue and author of Stylist: The Interpreters of Fashion.

Am I in a time warp? 20 years ago? Why was I doing this last week!? While some established stylists have assistants to get down on the floor and pick up pins and buckle shoes, I thought this made it sound like stylists really do nothing but point at cute clothes. I wish this article told people how physically exhausting this work can be!

I also thought the "girl" thing was strange. I know plenty of male stylists and plenty of young up and coming ones as well.

 

[cesarcmma]

^IA, I think the article is extremely shallow for so many words, I don't even work as a stylist but whoever has read this thread knows that it's more much work than the writer suggest, and the article only focuses on the money part and the perks of it like nobody wants to work as a stylist for the creative part. Sophia seems to be the only one in that article with the feet on the ground.

That beeing said it really is a hot job right now, it almost makes me happy that I'm not pursuing it at the moment...

 

[VintageDolly]

I'm training to become a stylist now. I'm allowed to style for some spreads as well. The £5,000/day part is not true, at least in my country :/ Also, working your way up there is tough.

I don't get paid a lot. In fact if I do marketing/sales/wardrobe(for videos) I get paid more.
It's not glamorous at all. I once carried 11 bag of stuffs home with me and my shoulders were aching the next day.
We also risked damaging the items on shoot, especially if samples are not available.

Most stylists started out as an assistant. Some fashion assistants don't get paid at all, so I'm the lucky few who has a good boss that pays. It's like starting out tough, but when you're finally there things get easier.

 

[SophiTheStylist]

Stylist Pull- 2 questions

Hello,

What if you were hired by an actress to pull clothes? Who is then responsible? I worked on an independent film as the costume designer and the leading lady wants me to pull three different looks for her for the upcoming movie premiere. Should I charge for the shipping of garments in my account?

What if you were hired by an agent that represents stylists?
I was contacted by an agent who wanted me to style a shoot for a national magazine. Do I ask the agent for the pull letter or ask for a pull letter from the client (magazine)?

Thank you!