Altuzarra F/W 2024.25 New York

[LadyJunon]

 

[90sFan]

Omg, he still showing????

 

[Lola701]

Tbh, this is a very good collection. It’s a good collection for him and it’s a very good collection by NYFW standards.
It’s definetly early 80’s European fashion but it’s multilayered. I think there were some wonderful pieces and Joseph worked! He clearly went deeper than his usual set of references!
I think they should all have worn flat shoes. The silhouette is somehow more modern that way…Closing with the bodysuit was a mistake. The fur coat look was a perfect closing look! His Chanel jacket and the shearling jacket were totally outstanding!

That being said, we have here the same issue that we have with Proenza Schouler.
Last season, he was Prada!
The season before he was Galliano!
This season, he is someone else and who knows who he might be in September.

It’s a pity because he is a talent. I think he is one of the few in NYFW who could have been at the helm of a house like Tod’s or Ferragamo.

Seeing Domenico and Eleanor De Sole in the attendance was a nice surprise.

 

[WAVES]

it was a very cohesive, modern and elegant collection.
his inspiration from the harlequin world is very subtle but also interesting to recognise and somewhat fun.

 

[tourbillions]

great clothes but that presentation isnt selling it to anyone. It just highlights how his brand has 0 identity.

It seems a common trend in New York to not even try to sell any fantasy or lifestyle. its as if they know they're not the first choice of their clients so they dont bother selling to them.

 

[lookatme]

That being said, we have here the same issue that we have with Proenza Schouler.
Last season, he was Prada!
The season before he was Galliano!
This season, he is someone else and who knows who he might be in September.

This season, I’m getting the very commercial version of Marc’s LV collection for Fall/Winter 2008.

 

[GoldenPetals]

When he's good, he's GOOD. There's something quintessentially New York about this. It reminds me of 80s/early 90s Clavin Klein.

The styling choices are questionable, but the collection is quite superb. There's a vision and it's done with plenty of quality desirable pieces. It's effortless Park Avenue snuggly apartment chic, which is essential for NYFW.

I'm surprised at how much I like those knitted pants with the low-calf cuffs.

 

[LadyJunon]

Altuzarra always produces good collections. That said, the brand has the same identity issues as Proenza Schouler, where you can't really recognise a distinguishable feature, silhouette or aesthetic in their work. It's actually sadly funny considering that Joseph worked there before starting Altuzarra.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

A lot of this looks like pyjamas to me. Beautifully made pyjamas, but pyjamas nonetheless. It does offer a more relaxed approach for him, which I think is good because sometimes he's so caught up on the exactitude of the designer references his collections feel like they're a little creatively up-tight.

Some of the looks get a little too 80s, and most of those were also because of the hats. Also really strange to close with a bodysuit. Great jackets and skirts throughout though.

 

[Delleone]

I thought I was watching The Row for a minute. Lovely, gentle show. I can see a lot of Perry Ellis in there. Also AlaÎa's Fall-Spring show casts a long shadow, especially in the extravagant use of buttons and pillbox hats but I rather enjoyed this .

 

[Nimsay]

I only watched the finale line up. yeah i can see why you guys like it. who doesnt like a well shaped chanel style jacket. Otherwise the collection as a lot of things that dont need to be on the runway. That yellow duffle coat with the ruffled shirt underneath it.

That delicate porcelain tan sequin gown was beautiful but did not feel luxury. The black bugle bead tuexdo top was exquisite. Best in show. That lace skirt with double Marquis shaped top was monstrous. It honestly looks like scrap fabrics he wanted to use. The top and lace skirt didnt even seem to go together

The like golfer pants are monstrosites. The fabric and shape are atrocious. I dont know why I have to see more than one clown collar top. Lots of clothes that dont need to be shown on the runway.

The white satin dress with puff sleeves was another hit. Though alot of the better looks here are totally anonymous and are simple designs.

He would be good for the gap actually.

 

[Kennnnn]

What a surprise, I liked this collection very much. I liked especially the late 70s/early 80s colour palette, the knitwear, some of the outerwear too - very much American sportswear, with a little bit of a Parisian feel. Above all, I appreciate that he evoked the old 7th avenue showroom presentations that Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Perry Ellis and others used to do. I wish more American designers would reference that period in NY fashion.

 

[disco54]

In the early 80s specifically around 81-82, there was a sub trend for Tudor style clothing, mutton sleeves, breaches, ,pie crust collars, culottes, big blouses and those tudor kind of hats remind me of that , but those Medieval hose pants are awful. Its a decent collection but Altuzarra has no consistency as a brand or much of an identity.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[tatouejeremie]

beautiful but i feel the photography really helps a lot here

 

[Lola701]

That Chanel jacket cut like atm Chore Jacket is perfection! It has the look of Vintage but is totally timeless and even genderless thanks to the immaculate cut!
And the grey shearling jacket!!! Celine by Hedi Slimane kind of good…A tour on Moda Operandi feels necessary now!
I could talk about those pieces all day!

I think with those two pieces alone, Altuzarra might be for the first time, my highlight for NYFW now!

 

[tourbillions]

that photography really helps the collection. the clothes look more in motion there than the show itself.

 

[Roonersss]

Don't really like the collection
They must have used The Row as a reference for the photography...

 

[jeanclaude]

The clothes do not tell me anything at all. But those flat shoes, the same kind 80s models wore in almost EVERY show back then, are beyond horrible!