I think Anna Sui has had to scale down her runway shows after Isetan pulled out its investment in her brand. Anyway, I think the more intimate presentation suits her clothes better. It also feels truer to her style, and the way she runs her business.
She was one of the first designers I loved - I admire her curiosity about sub-cultures and the way she puts together all sorts of esoteric references. There is a strong and identifiable Anna Sui look, and that's helped her sustain her business through licensing and collaborations. I think it's really wonderful that much of her main line continues to be manufactured in New York - how many American designers even manufacture domestically?
I think her work was strongest in the late 90s, and much of what she shows today is maybe a remix of her signatures. It remains interesting nonetheless, and I'm glad young people now are discovering her.